Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

So this thread is meant to be a sort of build thread as well as a "what's next" thread. I'd love to hear what people think and what I should spend my money on next. At this point the things on my wish list are: Kaizenspeed rear, kingpin front, strange suspension, infinity stand alone, billet bell housing, dogbox.


It's been quite the journey with this hatch. I've owned him for close to 10yrs and have basically put everything together in my driveway or friends garages.

In the beginning...

Another sunny day in the neighborhood...

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

Getting a new bay and guts



B16 Sleeved, Turbo tough rods, GE pistons, Itr cams, Log manifold, pet 6262,

Hondata V1 tuned by Cortney Green on Q16


Changed a couple of things-
[URL=http://s31.photobucket.com/user/1979pre/media/photo-22.jpg.html]

Ron Burgandy

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As it currently sits-



GSR Longblock Benson Sleeves
Arias Pistons, Pauter Rods, 625 bolts
Morroso 5qt pan
Gsr Head ported and polished
ITR cams, BC springs retainers, supertech valves
Virtual Works IM, 90mm TB
ID 2000's
Dual 044's (FCS 5g cell tank)

Full Race Top mount, 44mm gates
4.5" Garrett core custom IC
Comp 72 Turbo
Hondata V2
Hondata CPR

Strange Suspension
Kingpin bushings
Spinwerks 13x10's + 15x4" skinnies
DSS 5.9's
Liberty faceplate GSR gear box with mfactory LSD
Tilton flow control
Tilton twin disc
Hawk blue front brakes
Drum rear brakes
10pt chromoly cage.

SPOOLINmatt

i'd lose the eagle rods but they do put in some work....

E Town DSM

trans

raene

Aside from the parts list what does the slip look like? Where is it falling flat or holding you back?

EJ1_Ex

iTrader: (1)

man turbo lag..

Ron Burgandy

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Yeah not my favorite. Came with the built block I bought..... will ride em for as long as they hold up I recon.

I've debated this for a while. From a dollars and cents standpoint; since I'm running a small tire, for a $1,000 investment in my trans, I get the ability to shift fast, with weaker gears..... but lets say I break 2 or 3 gears a season.....I'm only out $400 or so. With a dogbox, I'm into it $4-5,000 initial investment and will STILL need to replace gears from time to time.... plus at that price, I would have to be breaking gears on my stock faceplated box every pass in order to justify the spending. I could even have two full faceplate gear sets and rotate them in and out as things broke and STILL be under the $5k mark after 2 or 3 seasons of consistent breaking/running some good passes in the meantime. Even buying a $5k dogbox, there is no guarantee that it will last 2-3 full seasons without requiring $$ to replace parts.

Anyway, this is just my thinking, I'm definitely open to hearing feedback on this. With all the mid 8 second rides out there, the SFWD class is just too much money to be competitive as a garage built solo operation. So this car is mainly for a goal low ET and then I might throw it into true street trim and be competitive.

I have changed the setup a couple of times over the years and don't have real seat time with it how it sits, but I want to do all I can in the offseason to prepare for the best season possible. My suspension has not changed all along.... Have cut 1.73-1.63 60ft times pretty regularily

That dyno is the old b16....here is the new dyno with current setup..... this was the first 7 pulls ever with the setup so we were just trying to dial it in a bit.

Last pull did not record but it was about 770hp and 450tq.....Sunoco E85R fuel

Blown90hatcH

I'm with Ricky on this. +1 on the trans.

You may make the entire season on the trans without breaking. You may not make it through any events without breaking. You may break in the semi's at each event. Then you lose $1000+ event money and all the investments to get to the race. And then time is money if you have a real job and spend all your time pulling transmissions out and cleaning them....gets old in a hurry.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Ron Burgandy;50252299]Yeah not my favorite. Came with the built block I bought..... will ride em for as long as they hold up I recon.


I've debated this for a while. From a dollars and cents standpoint; since I'm running a small tire, for a $1,000 investment in my trans, I get the ability to shift fast, with weaker gears..... but lets say I break 2 or 3 gears a season.....I'm only out $400 or so. With a dogbox, I'm into it $4-5,000 initial investment and will STILL need to replace gears from time to time.... plus at that price, I would have to be breaking gears on my stock faceplated box every pass in order to justify the spending. I could even have two full faceplate gear sets and rotate them in and out as things broke and STILL be under the $5k mark after 2 or 3 seasons of consistent breaking/running some good passes in the meantime. Even buying a $5k dogbox, there is no guarantee that it will last 2-3 full seasons without requiring $$ to replace parts.

Anyway, this is just my thinking, I'm definitely open to hearing feedback on this. With all the mid 8 second rides out there, the SFWD class is just too much money to be competitive as a garage built solo operation. So this car is mainly for a goal low ET and then I might throw it into true street trim and be competitive.

I'm in the same boat, I have everything on your wish list except the trans. I also run the faceplated gears like you and they have done me well right now. I kind of have the same mentality as you regarding the cost of a real dog box at this point.

At my power levels I can't justify going out and buying a good gear set yet but I think down the road I will. I would love to get the PPG gear set but dang 8-9k is damn expensive and like you this is a solo mission. I am an FIS car and even if I won every FIS event around me I would lose money in travel costs because FIS payout is only 300 dollars to the winner.

I would say play with the faceplated gear set until you start breaking often or you get the money to invest in a gear set. I think end up going with a Gforce gear set, I heard they are pretty good.

tepid1

It's more than just a trans that costs $4-5k. You need to ensure that you use the proper supporting hardware as well. Solid bushings, Speedfactory SCHA, G-force shifter, billet case etc. That's if you want it to be more reliable and less likely to break ****.

The Kingpin Outlaw setup is a good bang for the buck and it lasts forever. It will have your suspension more consistent than ever.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff fellas. Thanks for chiming in and AZ CIVIC, it's, its nice to have your perspective too since we share similarities in our builds/garage/sponsor sitch.

I'm curious about you observations after the kingpin install and the rear kaizenspeed setup? On a 1-10 scale where 1 is a "not at all" and 10 is "essential must have" where would you rate these purchases. Keep in mind that I do run the Full Race Traction bar up front. Or is it a matter of; "in order to run low 9's, I'd better get it all done?

I know lots of examples of people who have done it without any of that..... PFC hatch did some serious work with a simple setup and others have done the same.

Having the confidence to just bang the **** out of gears without feeling like you are on a ticking time bomb may be worth a few tenths as well. Inspiring confident and aggressive all in shifting.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

Totally agree.

For me, dogbox requires a mandatory billet housing, speed factory scha and then the shifter with possible

Maybe I'm just overcooking the situation. Maybe I have enough to get some runs/data and I should just roll with what I've got. At this point, I could realistically drop $2,000 on some upgrades for the upcoming season...... what I'm hearing is I should probably just roll with what I've got and save that 2k for a future box.

AZ_CIVIC

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Yep, I run solid bushing, the Speedfactory SCHA, G-force Shifter and the MAKK trans brace with my setup. I don't have a billet case with my Faceplated gears though.

AZ_CIVIC

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I think you can get it done without all that stuff but it does help. I will say this, I had H&R coilovers, camber kit and traction bar and ran pretty good. I borrowed a pair of Weld 10 inch wide wheels with 24.5/9.5 M&H's are cracked out mid 1.6's. However I was getting a lot of play, squat and the suspension did feel sloppy at the big end.

Once I got the KS rear trailing arm kit, MAKK trans brace, did the Kingpin setup, Strange Coilover kit with my 9 inch wide Welds with 24.5/8.5 inch slicks I got 1.57 60 ft so far. I would love to see what it would do with a 10 wide rim and wider slicks. For all I know that could drop me in the mid 1.5's or lower. The biggest difference for me though, was the suspension feeling after I did all that. No more squating hard, it drives really straight and feels so good on the big end.

A couple weeks ago I nailed a 9.9 on 24psi with the t3 comp 62mm turbo and my biggest hope is to get a 9.6 next time out. Like you I am not really trying to compete for any records but have a ton of fun just going out for test and tune. However I would say with having the right parts it has been easier for sure to get the times I am putting down. Anyway, the plan is to eventually get a real good gear set for my car as well as an AIM gauge cluster setup so I can clean up all those dang gauges I have.

Vtec_Dude

I'm liking this thread. I'm some what in the same situation. The only thing is that I'm gonna be running stock sleeves for now making a goal of 500+hp for this year and then depending on how things go maybe step up to your setup. Definitely keep this thread up.

Ron Burgandy

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Thanks ^^. I figure there are a few of us one man armies (with help from friends) out there.

I'll keep the thread up to date as I progress the build.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

These just came in today....

Solid insert mounts-

E Town DSM

All the "supporting" parts are a luxury not a necessity. I've pushed the stock trans envelope in the high 700-850whp range years ago and at that point your looking at 5-10 passes and gears are already cracked if not broken. The bell housing isnt needed i know plenty that have use factory cases with a few tweeks. The scha again luxury. The one thing i would recommend is the shifter to help prevent mishaps but again no needed.

And FYI i have seen the king pin stuff break too. Nothing lasts forever.

and lets not forget what happens to stock tranny parts when you make the car short track better they break.

EJ1_Ex

iTrader: (1)

^^^ amen

Rhdk20eg6

Do you have 1-4 faceplated or just 1-2 because ive heard alot of people only doing 1-2 and still having alot of success with that. Also for added security maybe hitting up racersteve and having him heat treat the gears

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

I hear you........ It makes me feel poor just thinking about it, but that is the price for going fast. I know people run stock boxes with nice gear sets all the time, but I guess the billet case just adds a sense of security.... but you would know much better than I if that would be worth spending on for someone like myself.

I've got 1-4 faceplate. The gears were treated by Libertys but I've heard great things regarding racersteve treated gears.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

OK so of the things on my "wishlist" humor me would you and give me your rating 1-10 as far as performance potential to be gained by upgrading:

Gforce Dogbox-
Strange Suspension-
Kingpin Bushings-
Kaizen Rear setup-
Standalone MGMT-

Thanks for playing along..... this will help me prioritize my list.

luck4rmkc

iTrader: (2)

Suspension will cut 60' times which will actually make the car faster to the traps. All of those components listed are a hefty price tag and will probably cost nearly as much as a GForce box.

The GForce box will give you the peace of mind and reliability that your not going to shatter gears every couple of passes. Being able to make it up into the staging lanes for the next round is half of racing. If you aren't reliable your not going to win events period.

It will also leave you with the potential to add more power later on without fear of pushing the stock gear set even further past its ticking time bomb point. So the potential to go faster in the future is there as well just based on that gear set being able to hold more power without sheering teeth off of gears.

I feel there is also something to be said about the gear ratios of the aftermarket boxes as well. Doing the math in a gear ratio calculator vs a stock GSR gear set you can add several miles per hour to first gear which should also help reduce 60' times theoretically.

I just got my first box recently and will be testing it out soon at that point hopefully I can prove to myself that everything above is true and factual. Otherwise I'm just spreading more Internet folklore ��

AZ_CIVIC

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One thing I heard with the Gforce Dogbox is you send them your tranny for them to install the gearset and they also modify your case, that is all part of the 5k price tag. So from my understanding they actually modify your case making is stronger.

Like I mentioned I would get all of the above, right now the last two items I am going to try and get this year is the AIM cluster and a Gforce Dogbox.