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Ok so I built this thing a while back (like 5 years ago) and am just now finishing off a few things and now im coming across a few questions. It is a 92 DX stripped and gutted with a QSB H2b kit, H22A, B16 trans, Bisimoto header, Buddy Club exhaust, Exedy clutch/PP/flywheel and bearings, Skunk2 Pro S II coilovers, and a few little misc things. Motor and trans are factory sealed.
Wheels/Tires
I want to set it up for quarter miles runs. I have been reading and thinking 15x7 or 15x8 (36ish offset) front rims with a 205/50/15 radial is the most I can possibly fit under the car. Is there a possibility of squeezing a 15x8 (??? offset) and a 225 under there? Maybe with a different offset that pushes the wheels out some, idk.
Suspension
The suspension is stiff but likely not stiff enough in the rear for drag, but it will have to do for now. These Skunk2's are supposed to be rated 8kg-18kg. I will max out the rear, but does anyone know what rate is ideal for the weight of this swap and traction in the front? Also, anyone used a traction bar on a swap like this? One guy said he fit an Avid on his H2B, but I couldn't find much detail on them with obscure swaps like this.
Anything I am missing?
Any other tips/tricks for getting these things to hook up? The youtube videos I am seeing are horrendous. Its just burnouts all the way through third gear. Given the B16 tranny I am guessing I will be even worse off. I am new to all this, as the last time I was under the hood of a Honda was when I first built this thing many years ago.
What to do now
Only thing left for me to do really other than the stuff above is find some bolts long enough to fit the QSD hood risers, put some fresh fluids in it since theyre all like 5 years old, and buy a new battery. Oh and a dyno tune. Anyone know if Mainstream in Dallas, GA area is any good? I had them ATTEMPT to tune a turbo DA like 6-7 years ago and they never could get it to continue boosting over 4psi... I have the HA Motorsports P72 setup for Crome or Neptune I believe. I will have to look through some receipts.
Goal
Oh and before someone asks, short-ish term goals are a 60 shot WOT wet kit and retune. Would hope for close to 300ish at the wheels. Although I may not get my HP goals with nitrous, since its more of a torque builder. Either way...
If I was building a drag car again I would go with slicks. I ran 13x8 with 22" m&h slicks on my last h22 hatch and they worked well, though I wish I would have gone slightly taller.
If I was building a drag car again I would go with slicks. I ran 13x8 with 22" m&h slicks on my last h22 hatch and they worked well, though I wish I would have gone slightly taller.
Seems like the 22" works well from what I see on this forum and online. Especially for cars running in my power range. Apparently the 23" has an effect similar/compared to reducing gearing because of the added overall diameter of the tire, which since I am N/A would hurt my times.
Any reason you would go taller? Also, I want a radial so I can drive it on the street as well. I don't have a trailer or anything at the moment.
I have Enkei PF01 15x8 +35 offset on my EG. 225/45/R15 Nitto NT01 (23" tall). Fenders need to be rolled to let the car sit low (but not "really" tucked). I'd show you pics but it's on jack stands right now.
205/50/R15 tires are about 23" tall. One of the reasons (main reason for me) to pick the right size tire is what gear and rpm you are at when crossing the finish line. I would think a 23" slick would be your fit.
If you don't want to switch rims at the track, you could run drag radials in the front and drive them on the street and track. I like Mickey Thompson drag radials. They have a 205/50/R15 and a 225/50/R15 (car would need to be lifted for 225's)
I say you try to run on basic radials and see what gear and rpm you finish in. Use that info to guide you. I have a basic bolt on K20A swap and was shifting to 5th less than 100ft before finish line (205/50/R15 all seasons) trapping 101-102mph. It sucked. I tried the same size tire in a drag radial (17.5psi) and I dropped down 4/10 of a second faster and I finished in 4th trapping almost 107mph. The low psi and soft compound expanded tire height which allowed me to finish in 4th (which is optimal)
Few things I would change are your running slicks something at least 24x8x13 maybe 23 but 22 are to small and don't provide the sidewall and patch you will require.
I would also look at doing some port work on your intake and removing the butterflies.
I have Enkei PF01 15x8 +35 offset on my EG. 225/45/R15 Nitto NT01 (23" tall). Fenders need to be rolled to let the car sit low (but not "really" tucked). I'd show you pics but it's on jack stands right now.
205/50/R15 tires are about 23" tall. One of the reasons (main reason for me) to pick the right size tire is what gear and rpm you are at when crossing the finish line. I would think a 23" slick would be your fit.
If you don't want to switch rims at the track, you could run drag radials in the front and drive them on the street and track. I like Mickey Thompson drag radials. They have a 205/50/R15 and a 225/50/R15 (car would need to be lifted for 225's)
I say you try to run on basic radials and see what gear and rpm you finish in. Use that info to guide you. I have a basic bolt on K20A swap and was shifting to 5th less than 100ft before finish line (205/50/R15 all seasons) trapping 101-102mph. It sucked. I tried the same size tire in a drag radial (17.5psi) and I dropped down 4/10 of a second faster and I finished in 4th trapping almost 107mph. The low psi and soft compound expanded tire height which allowed me to finish in 4th (which is optimal)
15x8's sound better, and would leave me room to use wider tires down the road when I need more rubber. If they fit without being super low, count me in! I am not going for looks here. So if they fit EG's ok I will likely go that route.
I will probably snag some radials in a 22"/23" and go make a few passes to see where I'm at before spending a bunch of time or effort on wheels and tires. Sounds like that worked for you!
Last edited by justinwazner; 07-02-2015 at 03:08 AM.
Few things I would change are your running slicks something at least 24x8x13 maybe 23 but 22 are to small and don't provide the sidewall and patch you will require.
I would also look at doing some port work on your intake and removing the butterflies.
That is the first time I have heard anyone reference 24". Everything I have been reading is along the lines of 22" is perfect, 23" is great if you have the power to back it up, and nothing about 24". Can you give me a tad more detail on the taller sidewall and why that would help my application if you dont mind?
Or are you saying only with slicks? I will likely run radials my first go 'round.
Also, I saw Black something brand makes a delete plate for those butterflies, but they said its really for FI applications. Any insight into that? Does it do anything for NA builds? Also, can I just remove them and patch up the holes or is a new plate necessary? Seems like a delete would lower the IM and let my hood close more haha.
Last edited by justinwazner; 07-02-2015 at 03:09 AM.
That is the first time I have heard anyone reference 24". Everything I have been reading is along the lines of 22" is perfect, 23" is great if you have the power to back it up, and nothing about 24". Can you give me a tad more detail on the taller sidewall and why that would help my application if you dont mind?
Or are you saying only with slicks? I will likely run radials my first go 'round.
Also, I saw Black something brand makes a delete plate for those butterflies, but they said its really for FI applications. Any insight into that? Does it do anything for NA builds? Also, can I just remove them and patch up the holes or is a new plate necessary? Seems like a delete would lower the IM and let my hood close more haha.
the 23 or 24 is referring to slick size only instead of 22 would be best for drag racing. With 22's your restricted on certain types of pressure and the smaller sidewall. 22's your tire pressure will be so low that your rim will almost be touching the ground. If you want to use semi's I believe 235 would probably be best type of tire for your car.
In reference to the FI applications, that is probably a misconception. You want to remove the butterflies to allow maximum velocity of air flow into your head of the motor. No you can add stacking plates that will increase the liter of air but that is also in relation to adding large throttle body. I would look at maybe purchasing a euro-r intake or having your stock intake ported. For the euro-r look into ***Rosko Racing*** . He makes these all ready to go with several different options.
Having gone through running street tires, drag radials, and slicks, I would suggest to get a good street tire setup for normal use, and a set of slicks to swap out at the track. You can go for a cheaper wheel as looks aren't important, just get a decent set of slicks and heat them properly.
I would say a 23" should be good for an H2B on a small shot, as I run 23" slicks on my Prelude that has an H23V frank, Pro1's, and a 100 shot.
As Crazes said, get that intake opened up, Rosko parts are excellent, and he has great customer support. My intake is all opened up and hand ported, with a 76mm TB, but I have the larger stroke and cams to support it.
the 23 or 24 is referring to slick size only instead of 22 would be best for drag racing. With 22's your restricted on certain types of pressure and the smaller sidewall. 22's your tire pressure will be so low that your rim will almost be touching the ground. If you want to use semi's I believe 235 would probably be best type of tire for your car.
In reference to the FI applications, that is probably a misconception. You want to remove the butterflies to allow maximum velocity of air flow into your head of the motor. No you can add stacking plates that will increase the liter of air but that is also in relation to adding large throttle body. I would look at maybe purchasing a euro-r intake or having your stock intake ported. For the euro-r look into ***Rosko Racing*** . He makes these all ready to go with several different options.
Awesome info on the tires thanks a bunch! Now im just debating between the spray or that intake and maybe something else. Gotta spread out the purchases haha.
Having gone through running street tires, drag radials, and slicks, I would suggest to get a good street tire setup for normal use, and a set of slicks to swap out at the track. You can go for a cheaper wheel as looks aren't important, just get a decent set of slicks and heat them properly.
I would say a 23" should be good for an H2B on a small shot, as I run 23" slicks on my Prelude that has an H23V frank, Pro1's, and a 100 shot.
As Crazes said, get that intake opened up, Rosko parts are excellent, and he has great customer support. My intake is all opened up and hand ported, with a 76mm TB, but I have the larger stroke and cams to support it.
Thats a pretty good idea. I half considered before and now im rethinking it. Slicks would be ebst for the drag anyways, and some extreme performance tires would last 4-5 times longer on the street than radials would.
07-01-2015, 05:22 AM
EG H2B drag build questions
