PeakBoostSi

PLEASE ONLY REPLY IF YOU HAVE PERSONALLY USED THIS! Thanks!

Question is:

Is it worth the money? It will cost approx $7.99/quart to run for a max time of 20min?
- It is supposed to do the following:
BR OIL:
Specifically designed for breaking in engines and flat tappet camshafts and lifters, BR break-in oil provides high levels of Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur in a mineral base oil. BR protects flat-tappet camshafts and lifters during break-in and it provides excellent ring seal. Combined with Joe Gibbs Driven Engine Assembly Grease, BR provides the highest levels of protection for camshafts, lifters, wrist pins, distributor gears, push rods and valve retainers. BR is fully formulated and requires no EOS or other additives. BR should be pre-heated to 180F before firing the engine for maximum protection. Because it is a 15W-50, BR can be used for up to 2 hours of break-in/dyno time before changing to race oil

BR30 OIL:
Specifically designed for breaking in engines and flat tappet camshafts and lifters, BR and BR-30 break-in oils provide high levels of Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur in a mineral base oil. BR and BR-30 protect flat-tappet camshafts and lifters during break-in and provide excellent ring seal. Combined with Joe Gibbs Driven Engine Assembly Grease, BR and BR-30 provide the highest levels of protection for camshafts, lifters, wrist pins, distributor gears, push rods and valve retainers. Our break-in oils are fully formulated and requires no EOS or other additives.

PeakBoostSi

Now when they say "can be used for 2hours engine break in time" are they talking about after the initial drain of the oil to remove the possible contaminants/metal shavings/debris?

My boy/local shop owner suggested to use this and told me to look it up and find out if I wanted to spend the cash to try it...SO HERE I AM ! LOL

This is what I have always heard is supposed to be the process:

Fill with reg straight 30 non-detergent oil startup idle to operating temp/then hold revs at 2500rpm for X time....then drain and refill with regular oil of choice.

You know I hate the learning process...BUT I want to just start it idle it until operating temp and then changing the oil and breaking it in on the dyno? Am i stubborn and I should just shut the f up and do as i am told?

narfdanarf

A few people I know swear by this: http://www.t1raceparts.com/product_p...cing%20oil.htm He sells the normal oils, plus the break-in specific stuff too.

In the past I have started the engine with normal oil let it heat up enough to kick fan on a few times while checkingfor leaks, A/F, ect. Drain/check oil. Fill with favorite brand oil. Take to dyno and tune. Drain/check oil. Fill with favorite brand oil. Beat the **** out of car. I recently tore down the last car we did this to after 30k miles of 500whp abuse and the bearings and cylinders looked minty fresh, although I will be using the BP oils this time around.

13173

I know a guy that races NHRA Pro Stock Bikes and they build their own engines. They use this stuff as well (Joe Gibbs oil). Personally, have I used this stuff? No, but if the guy I know says it is good stuff I would take his advice. Those bike engines run up over $40k and make alot of power, not to mention they have to be consistent to qualify and run with the other big names........

PeakBoostSi

Thanks! that is what i wanted to know...I am sure a lot more r&d went into the development of this oil than a reg ND oil that all of usually use...to me that is the difference in quality/attention to detail that can ultimately differentiate one buil from another. YOu know maybe it is worth it....

I will drop the CASH and try it and report back..


So what is the suggested implementation of this specific break in oil? Same to what I described above?

redboost10

there is also schaffers that you can look into for breaking in a motor. for flat tappet cams, we only use diesel oil after the intial break in with schaffers.

1992Si

There has been a lot of talk lately around work about the older V8's and cam wear.

Older V8's seems to be the key.

What engine are you going to be using it in?

Honda Bull

I just saw this stuff in the small, local V8 drag shop yesterday.

We always just use the standard Walmart 5w30, non-synthetic that lacks detergents. Haven't seen an issue. If you're just doing this stuff as a hobby and not for competition, I can't say that I'd worry about spending that much for oil to break the engine in just to drain it out immediately. If the opposite, well, then that's a different story I suppose.

tony1

It's definitely worth the money (not even any extra) and time to use break in specific oil on a fresh motor startup. What do you have to lose? The Brad Penn Break In oil is only $6.50/qt

TurboManny

That or I been using Autozone Non-Detergent 30W for the past 5years wether is on a rings fresh-up or mid-to-high HP build never had a problem! [B]but again break-in specific oils are made for a reason i guess I just never used them before!

1992Si

Here's another thought.

Is this for a race engine where you'll be changing the bearings out after the season or a DD that you plan to keep for 100,000 miles ?

I have never used break in oil and have had a number of cars go well over 100,000 or 200,000 miles.

Hey, it may be cheap insurance, to may be help the breaings and rings break in, when you look at what you just spent.

mikesrex

The question I'd ask myself is what do these special "break-in" oils have to offer different than other, cheaper, alternatives? Are they truly different, or just marketed differently?

tony1

Probably worth a call to these oil companies if you want details.

1992Si

They are different, it's just weather or not you need them in a Honda.

You may want to call the ring and bearing manufacture and may be the cam company. They are the ones who will be doing the warrenty.

PeakBoostSi

I figure i have spent X amount of dollars already (dont want to think what "X"= cuz its never a pleasant figure) but I will try it...like others mentioned 40 bucks for EXTRA insurance wont break the piggy bank...It is not for compeition yet but i do plan to use the same engine for my drag build which will easily do 800whp when i add a second bosh pump.

It will be a HARD driven street/strip car...i honestly feel that it will have much more abuse than some RACE cars out there,,,well except the road racing guys...

PeakBoostSi

I called the ERL who built the engine and they did recommend to use this break in oil...they have used something very similar made by Torco...(spelling?) which they say private labels the stuff for Joe Gibbs.

I am going to go for it! I guess time will tell if it made a diff or not...thanks for all the replies


Tony can you PM me a price for this stuff shipped to phx, az 85085? thanks!

By the way we are almost done thanks for the whole fuel setup/breather kit! Few things here and there but i think we have evrything...LOL

BoostingSnail

lol...I dunno if there is any truth to that...but I will add that we just used the Joe Gibbs break-in oil on a Pro Stock style motor...apples and oranges, but it seems to becoming a regular thing for the Pro Stock crowd.

The Joe Gibbs Qualifying Gear Oil is pretty interesting too...$20/quartlol