2point0VTEC

Want to start a post for Alignment and Corner Balance spec. Tried searching and nothing came up.

Post up your Alignment (toe, cast, camber), Corner balance (weight distribution), Size slicks, Time, any tips or trick you found that helped you improved?

Hope the info will help others setup their cars. I am currently trying to help a friend setup his car.

dohcsideSi

Up front -
1/8" toe out
-0.5 camber
As much castor as you can

Out back -
Stock rear specs are fine

As far as distribution goes -
65f/35r is usually the target

You should be able to get really close left and right front balance. Rear is a little harder.

Plan on spending a while doing it if you have never done it before and bring a friend or two ideally .

SPOOLINmatt

Toe out, makes you toe out more under load. Think about it.

FRernesto

Concur. What he said ^^

turbo boost

iTrader: (1)

so do you suggest a slight toe in when doing the alignment?

SPOOLINmatt

yea. Depends on how much fancy suspension hardware you have also....(kingpin, esm, Urethane)

turbo boost

iTrader: (1)

im just on the factory bushings with a traction bar..i was always aligning with .5 deg neg camber and slight toe out...guess I was wrong on the toe tho..

ninesecrx

Wheels under power always try to toe in. That is why you WANT toe out at rest, they go 0 toe under acceleration.

TurboSohc3369

https://honda-tech.com/drag-racing-3...specs-2907665/

rawperformance1

Most of the time people will give generic answers to this question that they've read somewhere else on the internet. In theory, the more weight you can get on the front tires, the better. There is a point that it becomes a safety concern when you don't have enough weight in the rear of the car. I've scaled quite a few Hondas and I've always struggled to get past that 75-78% front weight mark. It's not as easy as raising and lowering coilovers, and most of the time people who *think *they have a perfectly set up car will actually have a shitty 60% weight or something up front. It takes alot to get it where the big hitters have theirs. You look at pictures of fast cars with their bumpers off, you'll see a pattern of weight ballasts, radiators, batteries, overflow tanks and water pumps all in certain places and all certain dimensions. It's all done on purpose.

As far as alignments go, I've been playing with a little different specs this year and every one of the cars I've tuned have gone 1.55 or better in the 60' so far, with the majority of them on plain urethane bushings. I owe my success there to help from people a lot smarter than me though. Getting the good 60's are half car setup and half power delivery.

2point0VTEC

Have anyone tried using limit straps from offroad trucks to prevent wheel hop? limit strap + weights in the front =more traction?

motoxxxman

the overall answer to this thread is: there is no answer. every car is different and will react better to different settings. every car has different suspension geometry, and even cars with identical geometry will have different effective geometry due to varying ride heights and springs/damping.

things that affect what alignment specs are best, and different from everyone else:
-tire centerline on the ground vs axis of rotation
-suspension/bushing flex
-pitch of the vehicle during acceleration vs at rest
-how much the front lifts and how much the rear squats (similar to pitch, but still different)
and more.

ideally, you want zero toe and zero camber at all times for a drag car. but that's practically impossible unless you have a custom tube chassis and custom suspension. the key is to find what actual settings at rest provide as close to zero as possible during race conditions.

98B18C1

iTrader: (1)

an image of toe in vs. toe out for reference...

CO_RaceFab

I disagree with the half and half theory here, my car was setup really good last year and even better this year that being said last year i could throw the kitchen sink at it in 1st gear and still go low 1.5s (1000+hp ef) with little effort power management wise it went 1.48

SPOOLINmatt

yeah you won't see me apply more than 70% to the front period

rawperformance1

I'm speaking in generalities. A properly geared ("geared" covers wheels and tires too lol) and scaled car on a good track will go low 1.5's with minimal effort. I was speaking more so to the 8" wide wheel, stock gsr gear crowd. Plus on the larger frame turbos these cars are only gonna make so much power in first gear due to not having a huge load on them. And your car isn't ******* around lol