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So to a problem I kind of knew would occur. For every micron of powder coating on the chassis, the equivalent resides in all the threaded areas. An afternoon and maybe an evening with a metric tap & die set will be required to clean the threads ready to more easily accept bolts & nuts.
I was fortunate enough that when I had my chassis powder coated...the guys plugged all the thread holes and taped the exposed threads for me, just lucky I guess. Hope the job didn't take too long, I find even the most finicky jobs on the "S" are rewarding!
This photo shows the donut joint used for S6 & S8 between gearbox and differential.
The one on the left is for S6 and the one on the right is for S8. There is actually several mm difference between the two and therefore cannot be interchanged. But things get more interesting.
The one on the left is pn 40160 504 000 ( S6 ) one per car, used at the diff end.
The RH one is either pn 40160 516 000 or 40165 542 000. Seemingly S8 used two per car, one at the diff and one at the gearbox, but they both have different pn numbers and as such are different to each other and possibly not interchangeble. This only affects S8 chassis up to 1369 after which Honda moved to four point cross joints, better known as universal joints.
Note, the S6 joint actually has the pn number in raised lettering at bottom of image.
When disassembling any car for a restoration, take lots of photos. It is so long since I pulled this car down and packed away, I have in some part forgotten how it goes together. Thank goodness for my PDF of the parts listing which is argueably better than a work shop manual for reconstruction. I can print any page and then take back to the car. Now, I just have to find the rest of the parts.
the doughnuts shouldn't fit directly on. they usually need compressing to preload the rubber. that's what the metal ring is for which should be removed once the doughnut is fitted.
a large jubilee clip is usually enough to compress the doughnut prior to fitting.
the 60's Ford GT40, Triumph GT6 (plus others) also had these type of couplings in the driveshafts to allow slight articulation and remove shock loading/vibration from the transmission.
I with you on remembering where it all goes. my problem is remembering where I put various items for storage.
That makes a lot of sense. I dont think people who purchased the donuts as a home based repair would have known to take the metal ring off, which is why is have seen a few like it over the years.
Suppose you whack the metal tab with a cold-chisel to remove metal compression ring? Or, is there a snappy method? Note too a few of the S-car drum brake parts are carried over to the latest Honda cars like the Fit - the shoe retaining spring and pin for example. My local Honda man was very helpful with his parts list... Neko
My photo does not show it well but the two end flaps are notched one third and slide through each other. I would guess using pliers you would lift each third end tab up (away from the donut) and then the ring would just fall off. ( or something like that anyway)
Then, how to get a square peg through a round hole. Contact a friend in the USA, friend describes an answer. It worked, thanks to silicon spray and string.
Make sure to clean out and well lubricate the tube first. Then pull string and feed from behind. Slow and steady wins the race.
I know this may seem an unimportant post, but for me getting it right is all that counts.
Oh yes, had to clean out the wasp nest before feeding the brake cable through.
After yet another few months at work seven days per week I have been forcing myself into the garage when I get home. I have been working on my front end parts, sorting, cleaning.
Have to order some upper arm bushes from Mr Ortmann.
Anyone notice that the grease nipples for the right hand side of the frame point to the back of the car. I guess so as not to force rubbish into them when driving.
Whilst pondering and generally pontificating the front suspension setup I wondered why the base plate is threaded and not just a singular interfearance fit, in or out, like the other side where the lower arm just sits on the end of the in frame torsion bar.
By referencing the shop manual I find that the bottom plate being threaded has an important task. The rubber seal it works with has some leeway (give).
As it turns out, the castor (toe in toe out) of the front wheels is somewhat controlled by how much the plate is screwed back into the lower arm.
I dont think final front alignment can be achieved until the body, engine and gearbox are reunited to apply weight onto the front suspension.
So, I spent this afternoon working on the front RHS suspension components. I could not work out why I was presented with massive top in camber. After checking the parts list, checking the shop manual, after checking various photos I have saved over the years, I was at a loss.
Then it occurred to me that I was trying to fit the Front Left Hub to the Front Right Side of the car. Stupid me, I had even labelled the part correctly, I just did not take the time to take notice.
Image shown with correct side hub, all good now. Crisis averted.
It has been a while since posting. I have been working ( a bit ) just boring stuff. This image shows work done before I purchased the car. I need to repair a very poor repair of both the floors. I should have taken a before photo. A bit of fabrication and welding ahead. The original floor was oxy cut out and not cleaned up. Here I have cut away the overlap which had dirt and rust underneath. The RHS was similar but not quite as bad.
09-12-2015, 12:46 AM
Re: Aussie S600 convertible
