crux131

I recently replaced both lower control arms and outer tierod ends while I had the car apart for a new clutch.

Now everything is back together and torqued to specs from my crummy Haynes manual, but when I back up, the driver side wheel rubs. It did not do this before I changed any parts.

Do I not have the sway/strut rod adjusted properly or something?
There does not seem to be a whole lot of things to go wrong on this suspension but this is the first strut car I have done much work on.

I have not carried it for an alignment yet. Wanted to make sure everything was safe before taking it.

Any suggestions or links to similar issues I can research? I have looked at 1stgencivic but not found anything similar.

Thanks

dquizten

Did you try to do a basoc alignment with the tie rods by matchonf the nimber of exposed threads from the old one? If everything is torqued down right there should be no issues. If you don't trust the torque ratings from your manual I can give you the ones from the factory service manual.
Doug

crux131

If it isn't too much trouble, that would be great.
I call it crummy, because Haynes manuals always seem to be lacking to me.
They have more pictures than say a chilton's manual, but the descriptions are often less useful.

I marked the threads when I unscrewed the factory tie rods, the new ones shouldn't be too far off.

I had my neighbor watch while I let off the clutch in reverse. He said the wheel was moving rearward( in relation to the center line of the wheel arch ) when the car initially started to move.

I haven't done any alignment beyond trying to keep everything close to where it sat before dis-assembly.

dquizten

If there is anything else I can take a picture of let me know. The manual doesn't actually have a whole lot of text to it.
Doug

crux131

Thanks for the post.
When time allows I will go over everything again.

Much appreciated.

GrumpyOne

If you replace the control arms with new replacements, most likely you will require a front end alignment. I've done this twice and the front end was definitely amiss. It seems that the dimensions of the control arms between different manufacturers are not exactly the same...

crux131

Thanks.
I will tow it to a shop, if I do not find anything amiss with the install.
Luckily it lived its life towed behind an rv, and still has the tow bar installed.

crux131

Got an alignment, seems to have fixed the issue. The Toe was way out.
Now I have a howling noise, can't tell if it is the trans or belts, or possibly brake related.
Looks like I am off to my next project.

dquizten

Always something! Best of luck on the next one lol. Mine had a slight whining / weird sound and then a week later (of continuous barely noticeable noise) the accessory belt popped a cord. haha so check on that cause it's not too bad to replace but would be way better to get done before it breaks!
Doug

GrumpyOne

"Howling" noises could be a bad alternator or waterpump or bad belt tension or AC compressor or???.... Track it down or it's likely to fail at the most inopportune time.

GrumpyOne

Come to think of it, I had a similar noise then one day the discharge light came on and i hobbled over to a parking lot, popped the hood and there plain as day the alternator pulley was gone. The nut must have been loose. As inconvenient as that was, I thankfully carry a spares and simply changed the alternator out and was on my way. Luckily, the belt was just hanging there as I did not have a spare one one of that. (Now I do).

I always carry at least one extra distributor, waterpump, and alternator, small length of fuel hose as these items can turn a good day into a bummer.

crux131

Woohoo, squealing noise was just the dust shield rubbing the inside of the rotor.
Must have gotten bent while I was working on the front end and I didn't catch it.

Couldn't straighten the part of dust shield out, so I bent it back and forth until it broke off. No rub, no whine, no odd metallic noise. I am a happy camper.
Next time I have the wheel off, I will go ahead and pull the rotor and trim the shield with a cut off wheel.

GrumpyOne

Yep, sheet metal components can drive you nutz in short order.

Another item that can "squeal" is the dust cover thingie at the rear of the oil pan.

As an aside, I've had similar occurrences with my mid 1950's Studebakers both of which suffered from stretched belts where either the generator/alternator was actually resting on the fender apron. What sounded like a catastrophic‎ howl was fixed by slightly shorter belt replacements...

crux131

Did find the passenger side axle seal was leaking though.
Guess I have one more time of taking the front apart to replace it. Can't believe I didn't think to change them while the trans was out.


Dammit!

GrumpyOne

Was it the inner or outer seal? If the inner, I believe that all you have to do is separate the lower control arm ball joint and tie rod, remove the axel nut of course and then pull the spindle assembly out.

Be careful to make sure that the axel does not come out of the tranny as the inner C/V may pull apart which in turn will require you to pull the axel, remove the boot and reseat the ball bearings back into the seats. Don't ask me how I know this! (g)

Once you have the spindle assy hanging, you can see and I believe that seal can be removed/replaced without further disassembly. One trick I use is remove the seal, replace as much as is possible of the grease with new stuff. I use a sticky synthetic bearing grease which is much better than the original lubricant from Honda.

If the front seal is leaking, you'll have to remove the bearing to get to it and it's a good idea to replace the bearing as well at that point...

crux131

Seal at the output of the transmission.

AIRDALE143

AIRDALE143

DO YOU HAVE A SCHEMATIC FOR THE REAR AXLE?