Kuroneko

Last weekend, two days after the S660 was released, I drove the Hachi down to Kawasaki, and took my friend's S660 for drive. On the way home, I drove the GT-B. The Chev stayed where it was... More on the S660 here: Japanese Nostalgic Car - S660 Review.

NW Classic Honda

Awesome pics like usual sir!

Kuroneko

Thanks!



I've always used tea-towels, or onsen-towels as guard protectors, and a friend suggested I should use the real thing. Wow, what a difference! I bought a small guard protector, and it is kind of like when I first used a wheeled creeper. Amazingly easy to handle tools, keep them from slipping, and protect car at the same. I've no idea how I went without one for so long. Not expensive either. Neko.

NW Classic Honda

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

How did you like driving the new "Beat" S660? Does it still have the magic of driving a small car fast and fun?

Kuroneko

Yes! It was tremendous. Not straight line fast, but smooth, and very stable through corners. The roof, and electric rear window make a great open car combination. The six speed is great too... Quality is great too. Neko.

Kuroneko

Well, that was fun! Float valve stuck open, drained fuel tank into sump. It made a huge mess coming out, and with fuel pump on two or three venturi just leaked and leaked. So out come the carbs, and I've ordered a pile of needle & seat valves, O-rings, gaskets, and bits. Hopefully for a decent overhaul and fix. Pity as it was running sooo well...



I also finished installing the ETC card reader. I think anyway, as the fuel fumes had me a bit giddy by the end of the day...

LeeM

What an amazing thread!
I have just bought an S 600 today. Needs a light restoration, but I have plenty of info here!
Cheers for that Neko
Lee in South Australia

Kuroneko

Hey Lee, you should also see the Just S group on Yahoo, and post pics of your S600 here! Here's Part One of my carb clean and overhaul.

Carbs out:


Upside down and bowls opened to replace needle-and-seat (float) valves:


New float valves:


With carbs propped up to the appropriate 15 degree off vertical angle adjust float height with Spread Tools float gauge to just on 21mm:


All new float valves, seat gaskets, and cover gaskets installed:


New O-ring sets:


Flow-plate removed:


Input from fuel line top left, and input to One and Two as indents from main chamber. You can see gunk has settled on lower edge of flow channel, and bits floating about too:


I also installed all new fuel lines in engine compartment, from hard-line forward, and a fuel cut-off solenoid to avoid the Coupe problem of occasional flooding on engine-down hills, and the nasty possibility of cylinders full of un-compressible liquid fuel from a stuck valve. With the tank higher than the carbs, this happened to me once, and the cut-off solenoid from Ortmann will stop. Note **** on bottom of solenoid to over-ride electrics if needed:


I also reterminated my temp gauge sender wire too as it was a bit flaky:

Next, flow plate cleaning and new gaskets... Neko.

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Excellent write up as usual with fabulous pics attached. Seeing your S800 makes me want one even more!

LeeM

Cheers mate
I have it home now, and have been having a look around to see what needs doing to it.
As it has been sitting for so long, the motor is locked up, so I'm freeing that up with Penetrol and see if that works. If not, i may pull it out and start to pull it apart.
will have a look at the other site too

Kuroneko

Thanks much! I try a bit to make it legible.

Be careful with the valve train and cams, but that's a good start. Neat too, yours is a coupe. Great for going away for a weekend:


Some idle pics from my local area:


Down to a local lake for a picnique:


Warming up for a blast around my local touge:


See ya! Neko.

Kuroneko

Inside work overnight... Cleaning fuel plate and carb mount flange. Or whatever they're called. Thinking about the convoluted path the fuel takes before it is ingested, it occurred to me on the outer edge of the machined aluminum plate the fuel was likely either cooled or remains cool before making its way into carbs... Light Dremmel work:



Fuel path now clean, smooth, and shiny:



Carb mount flange, with new gaskets on order from Spread Tools:



Next, reassembly and attempted adjustments. Though, my exhaust taco now has a few holes and for proper adjustments they should of course be fixed first. Neko.

Kuroneko

Arrgghh... I ordered the wrong gasket, and now have to wait for a new one to arrive. No carbs. No driving. Just old photographs to look at...



Our kura (store house) that needs reforming, and I've got permission to turn it into a garage. While a good idea for an S800, not much else would fit. So likely to just remain as storage...


Dropping the film off for development, and obviously adjusting the new headlights from last year:

Vanishing Point

Loving the car and scenery photo's.

Kuroneko

From a night out with some friends at Tatsumi PA; 355, GT-B, and Hachi:



Thanks! I've finished rebuilding my Keihin, so hopefully will get installed, adjusted, and out on the road again...

Kuroneko

Carbs installed, cabled, and ready for a warm-up and adjustment. One of the problems in Tokyo though is the proximity of neighbors. While they tolerate my 06:00 starts, and late night runs to Daikoku etc, tuning in my driveway generally brings out some polite comments, 'gee, your car really is loud', 'is that oil I can smell', and the most recent, 'I wondered if there was a new garage nearby...' All polite code for 'STOP THAT NOISE AND SMELL'.

Luckily, there's a big university car park not far way, so I will take it over there hopefully being able to tweak my mixtures... Neko.

tiprem

here s my s600 1966, rebuilt in 18 month, run like new.

Kuroneko

Bonjour. Votre voiture c'est bonne en rouge. Je étais au Québec ilya deux semaines ... Enjoy!

DC-2uned

Wallpaper worthy pic

Kuroneko

Thanks! Bigger versions possibly available on Fickle under Tokyo Scooter Stuff. I got the carbs on with new mounts today. Removed the oil-catch tank, and adjusted with the help of a good friend. 35C and she started perfectly, warmed up nicely, and stayed rock-steady at 90C even stuck in the hot Tokio traffic. I did get a few chances to rev it out though:


See ya! Neko.

Kuroneko

Out testing my carb overhaul work this weekend in Shimokitazwa... Running really well! Sounds great without any air-cleaner. I might leave it that way.

bramdax

My S was Original delevered in GB in pb31 it was from the 80' racing green. I saw your black hood and the made up my mind; its goneby pb31 with a touch of ralley black.





The rear also got a touch of black.

Kuroneko

Great looking S! I can see a few roundels on mine as well now... Neat.



Though, mine is more a streetable machine, and not for the track. Yours is raced perhaps? Neko.

Kuroneko

Trap for new players...



When I replaced the Keihin mounts two years ago, I also installed some fat stainless hose clamps to seal. I also did them up tight. The fat clamps though bore down on the rubber seal unevenly over their width - tight over the flange on the carb venturi, and loose over the carb sleeve. As a result, the carb mounts slowly failed (black rubber bits x4 above)...



So, a skinnier hose clamp - similar in size to the OEM screw clamp - was sourced and installed. Fat and skinny above and below on side view diagram.



The skinny clamp now only bears down on the venturi sleeve, and not the flange. Like the OEM clamp it too only loosely secures the carb mount, and does not need to be over-tightened, merely snug. Hopefully with new mounts replacing the ones I cracked, the skinny hose clamps (kakoii in street-cred black), and the looser effort in tightening, they will last longer.

In adjusting the carbs my biggest problem was getting 1 & 2 to draw air the same as 3 & 4 at idle. Long story involving flow meters and idle jets, but the problem was simply the spring-loaded lock nut Pair Sync Screw between the sets - 1 & 2 were not uncovering idle port when closed and 3 & 4 were uncovered and drew fuel / air just fine. You're never going to sync like that.



Remove carbs, set visually (something I did not do before installing after rebuild). Adjust Throttle Stop Screw (for idle speed) up a bit, then tweak all four Idle Mixture Screws for max flow on each venturi, then back off Throttle Stop Screw to slow the idle to just over 1000rpm. Ensuring the Pair Sync Screw setting keeps each set drawing the same volume as the idle slows down - not recovering idle flow ports with throttle valve again...

The factory manual says the Idle Mixture Screw should be around 1 1/8 open from closed for max idle air flow sweet spot, and mine are exactly this. Note too 'closed' is when the Idle Mixture Screw is tightened slightly with a little resistance, and not done up tight like a conventional screw or bolt. The screw is soft brass and the tip will deform or bend if done up too tight.

Though I can get the idle to around 1000 with no issues, at night with the HD alternator and lights and wipers on, the idle slows even further with the load (lucky no AC), so a higher day time idle speed of 1500 or so avoids the need to tickle the throttle at the lights at night. Neko.