Nova_Dust

Like many things in life, some cannot be kept forever.

This Civic is no exception.

This car has been with the family since March 2000 in brand new condition. Modifications began in 2005 until present day. I will give detail break down to the best of my knowledge. All parts are authentic unless mentioned otherwise. (new) means I bought the part brand new.

Body/Exterior:
2000 Honda Civic hatchback, DX model, Vintage Plum Pearl colour.
The car still has its original paint, with nearly no rust. The rear quarter panels have very little rust and I often fix those myself, with simple grinder and black rust proof paint. The good thing about VPP paint is it is close to black at night, so flat black paint blends in nicely – small area of course.

The driver side rear quarter area has been dented slightly and body filled (back in 2004). Little rust came back and I did my typical DIY rust fix. Of course, you will see little stone marks if you look from 4 inches away however, I would say the overall paint and bodywork is acceptable and can last many years to come with typical wash and wax. Mind you, this car has been daily driven since day one. For a car that has seen 3000 days of sun, rain, snow and track, I am happy with its current condition.

• Buddy Club carbon fiber vented hood (RARE!);
• SiR front grille;
• SiR front lip;
• SiR front bumper;
• R-Crew aluminum front carnards;
• Audi TT Aviator Gray (only on the roof);
• Spoon plastic mirrors (mirrors are not used, only the base plate. Driver side is cracked, passenger side is fine);
• C-West carbon fiber race mirror, custom door mount method. Driver side mirror is cracked;
• CTR spoiler with custom adjustable bracket;
• rear bumper trimmed to reduce drag;

Remark: I don’t know, the driver side mirror is kind of cursed? The C-West mirror is cracked but really not that big of a deal, the carbon housing is fine. Regarding the adjustable wing bracket, I did this back in 2006 before adjustable bracket became widely practiced by many nowadays. Even though ALEX has adjustable bracket, but who wants to pay $240 for them?


Engine:
B20B swap done in winter 2005, from JDM Orthia wagon (9:2 CR). It had about 70,000km on it. I have put about 40,000 on it since.
In February 2008 I started with engine build work done by Dale:

• JDM P8R (31mm intake valve size) head with mild P&P and valve work, done by Gord Bush;
• Crower TI retainer and dual valve springs (new);
• Brian Crower BC0022 cams (new), pretty much the same as Crower 62403 cams;
• HKS adjustable cam gears (new and rare!);
• RS 68mm TB (new);
• Blox IM (new), ported by both Gord Bush and Dale;
• RC 370cc injectors;
• OEM gaskets (new);
• baffled oil pan (similar style to Mugen);
• AMSoil 20W50 race oil (I will change to 5W30 soon for winter);

Dynoed at 167whp/130wtq, both street tuned and dyno tuned by Zeeman (Andrew) with catalytic converter. Redline at 7000rpm. It uses 91 octane gasoline.

Cooling:

• Koyo dual core full size radiator, black;
• Samco radiator hoses, purple (new, only the bottom one is being used, the top one is still new because it is for a B16/ITR VTEC head);

Fuel:

• Earl’s fuel line;
• B&M fuel gauge;
• OEM fuel filter (new since 2005);

Transmission:

• JDM 98’ spec ITR transmission w/ 4.785 FD;
• Kaaz 1.5 way clutch type LSD;
• Spoon flywheel;
• Defcon 6 puck custom clutch with pressure plate and clutch disc (according to Defcon, their spec is between Stage 1 and Stage 2 of some of the brands on the market); this was changed on June 30, 2008;
• Fastline shifter (rare!) with Energy Suspension bushing;

Suspension:

• Spoon 5 way adjustable coilover, F16K, R14K;
• SRR rear LCA (new and rare!);
• Energy Suspension bushings at – rear trailing arms, front upper &lower control arms (new);
• USDM SiR front lower control arm with 26mm sway bar;
• CTR 22mm rear sway bar (new);
• ASR brace plate (new) (32mm sway bar race version, I got this back in summer 2004);
• Spoon zero bump steer kit <Roll Centre Adjuster> (new) (a taller front lower ball joint basically, for race use);
• Spoon front strut bar;
• custom roll bar (main hoop with 2 points to rear struts, cross points, link between rear struts and harness bar);

Intake & Exhaust:

• HKS air filter;
• ARC intake chamber;
• JDM Maxim Works tri-Y header with 2.5” collector;
• JDM CTR cat (custom shortened to fit);
• JDM Vision 2.5” TI B-pipe;
• JDM Fujitsubo 2.5” inlet muffler (custom cut exit lip);

Remark: I don’t run test pipe on the street, and this system sounds awesome I must say. Cruising at 2500rpm is fairly quiet; and hell breaks loose if you give it all the way.

Brake:

• SiR disc brakes all around;
• Axxis Ultimate brake pads, front and back (new since June 2008);
• Brembo blanks, front and back (new since June 2008);
• Motul RBF600 (new since June 2008);
• ITR brake booster;
• ITR brake master cylinder;

Wheel and tyre:

• x2 (pair) Rays Engineering Volk Racing TE37, bronze, 4x100, 15x7”, 43 offset
• x2 Toyo RA1 205/50/15 on TE37, can still see all four grooves;
• OEM 14” steelies with all season tires, about 60% left;
• x2 Toyo RA1 225/45/15, can still see 3 to 4 grooves;
• Volk Racing extended lug nuts with lock nuts, black (new);

Interior:

• Momo carbon fiber race bucket seat (expired FIA) can fit waist 38” max;
• Schroth 5 point harness (expire 2009);
• Alpine CD player;
• Memoryfab bucket seat rails (driver and passenger side);
• gutted interior;
• JDM Works Bell steering wheel adaptor (new);
• JDM Splash thin quick release (new);
• 60mm steering wheel extension (new);
• Momo 2 spoke old school steering wheel with new leather;

Misc.

• battery (new since 2006);
• Compustar alarm with backup siren (new since 2005);
• non power steering rack from CX model, properly converted;
• A/C removed, except harness;
• HASPort 88A engine mounts (new, hardest offered by HASport);
• JIMFab front urethane torque mounts (new, gold mounts with red bushings);

The only thing you need to drive this car is a shift ****. The one I am using is a present from my wife so I cannot sell it with the car. Race season is pretty much over so put on the 14” to get over the winter and buy another pair of either TE37 or something else (15”), put on the RA1 and go racing. I would consider this car as a turn-key racecar (some may disagree). This car can be daily driven as well track driven, though the engine mounts is really tough to get used to. To make this car a full racecar, you can still remove many parts to further reduce weight as a cost effect method. Heater is still functional, hence the daily driving ability in winter making it an all year round car.

My asking price $9,088 CDN OBO. You can see that this car uses many quality parts, and rare parts if you will. The B20 nonVTEC engine may turn some away as it is neither VTEC nor K series, but the solid package is what makes this car a fun car on the track. Suspension is not overlooked and braking is suitable for its power. If you want, drop in a set of Crower 62404 cams, get it tuned again and squeeze more power out of it, as the valvetrain is fully capable of supporting such upgrade. I would like to sell this car as a whole because parting out would break the harmony of its present state in my honest opinion.

Thank you for your interest in this car, please PM me if you are seriously interested in this package. I can meet up with potential buyer between Markham to Brampton.

<FONT SIZE="3">Note: Photos is for representation only, you are buying the car and parts as listed. If a part you see in the photo it is not listed, it is not for sale.</FONT>

Nova_Dust

Oct 8

b18ctrb

iTrader: (72)

WOW! I cant beleive your selling it Charles

Nova_Dust

Deni, life changes haha.

DrftEK

Pm'd