raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

the capacitors are used to power up HIDs and prevent them from flickering.

instead of buying small capacitors for HIDs alone.

if i understand correctly. hids need lots of current to power up like the amp when bass hits.

would a voltage stabilizer or a big car audio capacitor have same effect on the HID lights as small inline caps?

my reasoning behind this is.

biger cap will keep the voltage more stable for things like wideband sensor
and injectors.

and HIDs and other lights

alot of cars are tuned with incorrect injector offest tables.

and mine was as well.

so if i can keep the voltage closer to optimum during high loads i would have less problem with incorrect amount of fuel.
and im also not sure if theres an offset for voltage changes built in the wideband controllers or not.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

You need to look for a better tuner. Upgrade all the grounds on the car and sand down to paint. You will have a more solid path.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Will it help tho?

He used stock injector offsets. I found out 6 months later that my basetune had correct offset.
He used his own basemap

mechanix619

If for some reason your having voltage issues with your fuel pump then run a dedicated power line from the battery to a relay and use the stock wire to trigger the relay. But you should only need to do this if you're running excess 500WHP. An Aeromotive pump suggests a dedicated power source but unless you're having issues the stock setup is okay.

Long story short, find a better tuner.

HID's need power which is why they also use a dedicated power line from the battery and use the stock wire to trigger relays. Or at least the should be wired this way.

stowne78

I've never thought about putting a capacitor across my battery before lol. Your tuning software should have an offset for fuel trims based on voltage...

And putting a Cap across your battery is a bad idea because in order to do that you would need a voltage regulator as well, because capacitors can charge up to higher potentials than what is supplied depending on the load.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

its built in.
they use caps for stereo systems man...

stowne78

I know they use caps in amps, and speakers, do you know why? There are caps on speakers to filter out undesired frequencies (and noise), it's called an RC filter. There are a couple types of filters, high-pass (for your tweeters), band-pass (for your mids, this is an RLC filter), low-pass (for your sub, although they might use a band-pass as well) there is also band-reject (RLC filter), which allows all frequencies except for a small range that gets filtered out.

You notice how when you turn your car on and there is a delay before music comes out? That's because the amp has to charge the capacitors before functioning properly. I hope you enjoyed your quick BRIEF intro to capacitors lol.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

http://www.hotspotelectronicsstore.c...citor-comp.gif

capacitor for audio
because battery releases corrent slower than capacitor when bass hits the amp is starving for power and voltage drops across the system
your headlights dim
because its all running off one source

so my theory is if i install the cap it will help the whole system to keep voltage more stable for my audio and also the HID power up
because its same thing.
hid ballast converts from 12 volt to 240000 or whatever volts to initially startup the bulb
when its not enough the bulb flashes and dies ( protection mode im assuming)

theres also voltage stabilizers advertized for racing. which i belive are same thing as audio capacitor just smaller and more expensive.
i do because im building a custom 3 way system now with my own crossover also. i know how caps are used as well...

i just never looked into how HID works. never bothered me since i never had flickering hid and at the shop we just throw those inline caps on them to fix the issue and i never qondered why exactly lol

stowne78

Okay. It appears you have done some homework, but I'm afraid not enough.....yes, it's true that caps release energy (not current) faster than batteries, but that is irrevalent in this discussion. As a sine wave on an AC system hits it's peak and starts to decline, the capacitor gets charged to the same potential as the peak of the sine wave and wil level out the signal after the cap, assuming its sized properly it will then look like a DC waveform.

Now, in your situation forget about capacitors, in car audio big capacitors are simply a bandaid to the problem and are not the solution. If you are getting fading lights when your bass hits, you simply need another battery wired in parallel with your other battery. It sounds simple bc it is simple. If you have double the available energy, your system won't have any more issues. And yes that's a very dumbed down way of saying it.

fcm

LOL,^^^ you fix the problem by adding more current, you do that by installing a bigger alt. a second batt. is no different then a cap, it is another load that needs to be charged/kept charged, just like a cap, the diff. is as mentioned, a cap will release "power" much faster then a batt. will, so it works very well as a "band-aid" to stabilize currant to an amp.

I am not sure how well it would work to "stabilize" voltage for the cars whole electrical system as few electrical components need massive increases of current for very short periods of time like an audio amp does, [sub amps in particular].

If fact, I isolate my caps to the sub amp only. 94

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

well since both of my hids are flickering im gonna see it it doesn any difference.

i know what the problem is but since they are "caught in the act" im gonna put the bandaid if no work then ill fix the issue lol

stowne78

Oh no...we have another cap lover in the thread...I am debating on whether it's worth my time to learn you sumthin here...

First of all if you "add more current" ROFL then your electronics get fried. Hahaha that was a funny statement. Relying on a bigger alternator to supply enough energy to your load whether the car is idling or redlining just does not make any sense. The output is restricted by the rpm of the engine, therefore it is a bad idea to say it is your cure-all.

Capacitors releasing "power" is closer, better than "current", but still wrong. Power is simply something we calculate based on energy, or to be more specific, the energy discharged from a capacitor is measured in Joules. There, no one else had better get that wrong lol.

This brings me back to the hovering issue. You wouldn't need a cap if you had enough initial energy in the first place. A battery by all means is NOT just like a cap. Kindof similar idea, but very different. Com'mon, I thought you had more sense than this??? But then I realized I was wrong when you admitted to having caps yourself. Look here, we can model this with differential equations by the following example. Some characteristics of water flow can be related to electricity. The differential equation for water leaking out compared to water coming in is a good example. You have a resivour containing water, with a variable hole in the bottom. So, the water leaking out is your load's demand of current from your battery. Once your load gets big enough then there are times when the incoming water into the resivour cannot keep up with the outgoing water. Now if you double your input of water into the resivour AKA another battery, then for most audio systems the demand will not exceed the input.

If that doesn't make sense then there is no hope.....if your alternator sucks or your audio system is stupid loud then yeah you need to upgrade it so it can sustain the batteries at optimum performance. It's when the alternator isn't strong enough is when the batteries fail because they are being drained faster than they can be replenished, which also reduces the life of the battery.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

so many words and so little sense.
spend your time somewhere else buddy lol thanks for your help?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Get a HO alternator. Check your grounds. Get a better tuner for chrissakes.

fcm

[QUOTE=stowne78;48379129]I am debating on whether it's worth my time to learn you sumthin here...QUOTE]
ROFL, Your going to "learn" me something.

35 years in car audio install, last 10 years working at Dave Ward Auto Electric, what thew hell do you think you can "learn" me.

My guess is I was installing car audio when you were still just a wet dream. nuff said.94

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

30 dollar hid kit lol what

stowne78

[QUOTE=fcm;48379904]I intentionally said it that way buddy. Ever heard of humor? My guess is you started installing car audio and were taught what works so thats what you know. So why not argue some? your mistake is failing to realize or admit when you are wrong. And you weren't all wrong, but you obviously don't know how this stuff really works and are too thick skulled to admit it. Which is why you threw out your credentials as a last line of defense, just because you have credentials doesn't mean you know anything. You would hope so...but some people......

Oh well, if you are too stubborn to learn then what can I say you can't fix stupid.

stowne78

Sorry didn't mean for it to turn out this way, just trying to help. Most people just like to argue

dropdeadjay

use a relay to power the HID's instead of stock plugs, same wiring as if you were hooking up generic fog lights.

dropdeadjay

ive never had good results with capacitors either