ThaCivicAssassin

Are pillar mount tweeters an option in an eg? I've never seen them.

fcm

Neither have I. 94

B18C_EJ8

I could have sworn I worked on a '94 or '95 Civic that had factory tweeters... They weren't in the pillars, but in the little plastic sail panels at the top of the door, opposite the mirrors...

JSPECSIR

you can put 92-95 ex tweeters in their or you can get sail panels and tweeters from a 96-00 ex/si

ThaCivicAssassin

SO THE 92-95 EX has tweeters in the door.....I have a 4-dr if it makes a difference. But what are sail panels?

B18C_EJ8

I think someone above said this: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but in the little plastic sail panels at the top of the door, opposite the mirrors... </TD></TR></TABLE>

ThaCivicAssassin

O ok I got ya thanks....

rcurley55

just build them

- get a junk pair of pillars, some bondo, sem texture spray, and sem color paint and some elbow grease and you get custom a-pillars

not that hard to do

ThaCivicAssassin

What about the wiring? Would I branch it off of the door speakers or run completely seperate driectly from the HU.

fcm

Are you just adding tweeters, or are you installing a component set, [mid-range and tweeter]? 94

JSPECSIR

heres a pic of my 96-00 oem tweeter sail panels, in my 5th gen civic. maybe this helps.

non_vteccc

i beleive gsr doorpanels have mounted tweeters in them, along with later years of LS's

ThaCivicAssassin

I already have 6x9's in back 2 daimond audio subs with a 947 watt Kenwood amp. and a Aiwa 4x55 HU. The problem is I have pioneer 6.5 door speakers but my 6x9's are over powering them. When I use the EQ to adjust power to the front it doesn't sound as good. Thats due mainly to the postition of the door speakers and the fact that I have a 4-door. Thats why I came up with the idea to get tweeters higher in the cabin. I believe the door speakers I have are 2-way. I just need to know how I'd hook up/wire these tweeters.

fcm

Well as long as you get "add on" tweeters they will have the x-over, [cap] on them already and you can just parallel them with the door speakers.
With the above said having a tweeter in the lower door and then installing one in the piller or any other location is going to play havoc with imaging phasing will also be an issue.
I would recommend you replace the front speakers with a set of component speaker and amplify them, leave the rear 6x9s running off HU power, and disable the tweeters in the 6x9s, it will, move the sound-stage to the front and the imaging up. 94

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

yeah, you will want to make sure if you tap into your door panels speakers for sound, that your tweets have nice cross overs....otherwise they will blow since the door speakers run different ohms and frequencies

B18C_EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">otherwise they will blow since the door speakers run different ohms </TD></TR></TABLE>

First of all, wtf are you talking about? Different ohms??

Second, the OP's questions have adequately been answered. Thanks for throwing your nonsense in.

ThaCivicAssassin

Ok so i'm ready to buy the tweeters. Is there a specific brand thats known for tweeters. I mean I know the big names but whats a quality tweeter. I see a TON on Ebay. I've seen lanzar MA audio and so on.

fcm

OIC you want a good set, OK then get a set of HERTZ Mille ML 280 or maybe the ML 500R, best ribbon mid/tweeter I have heard in a long time.
^^^^^ you will need X-overs.

With that said, if you want good tweeters why are you not just getting a good set of components, [2way or 3way].
Just adding a set of tweeters, no matter how good they are is going to solve your problem and may in fact make the problem worse,

Having the same frequencies coming from 2 different places, [tweeters in the 6.5" at bottom of door and tweeter mounted to "sail" or A pillar trim] will wreck havoc with your staging and imaging, phase shift will be almost impossible to deal with. 94

jz98ctr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well as long as you get "add on" tweeters they will have the x-over, [cap] on them already and you can just parallel them with the door speakers.
With the above said having a tweeter in the lower door and then installing one in the piller or any other location is going to play havoc with imaging phasing will also be an issue.
I would recommend you replace the front speakers with a set of component speaker and amplify them, leave the rear 6x9s running off HU power, and disable the tweeters in the 6x9s, it will, move the sound-stage to the front and the imaging up. 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

With that said, if you want good tweeters why are you not just getting a good set of components, [2way or 3way].
Just adding a set of tweeters, no matter how good they are is not going to solve your problem and may in fact make the problem worse,

Having the same frequencies coming from 2 different places, [tweeters in the 6.5" at bottom of door and tweeter mounted to "sail" or A pillar trim] will wreck havoc with your staging and imaging, phase shift will be almost impossible to deal with. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2

EBP_SI

Damn you FCM, why did you have to beat me to this. now i have to agree with you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OIC you want a good set, OK then get a set of HERTZ Mille ML 280 or maybe the ML 500R, best ribbon mid/tweeter I have heard in a long time.
^^^^^ you will need X-overs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

mmmm...ribbons are sexy. i'd love to get a pair to play around with but i think i've given up with my current car setup.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
With that said, if you want good tweeters why are you not just getting a good set of components, [2way or 3way].
Just adding a set of tweeters, no matter how good they are is going to solve your problem and may in fact make the problem worse,</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think too many people put too much emphasis on tweeters and SQ. If you were to actually listen to just a set of tweeters and just a set of mids you'd be very suprised at the roles each speaker plays. This is more evident on component sets thats are crossed high Ie. 4.5khz. I still say (asside from going active or building your own passive X/O) you should never buy mids and tweeters individually.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Having the same frequencies coming from 2 different places, [tweeters in the 6.5" at bottom of door and tweeter mounted to "sail" or A pillar trim] will wreck havoc with your staging and imaging, phase shift will be almost impossible to deal with. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is the only part i disagree with. While multiple tweers in the front stage can be done and is something people do to raise their stage, typically its not something thats going to be accomplished by someone asking which tweeters to buy

ThaCivicAssassin

.....this is the only part i disagree with. While multiple tweers in the front stage can be done and is something people do to raise their stage, typically its not something thats going to be accomplished by someone asking which tweeters to buy[/QUOTE]

......I'm not an audio tech. I know a little bit. All I want to do is raise the stage with some tweeters. That being said my 6.5's in front.....i have to double check to make sure they are in fact 2 way. Whats oem on those? I think mine are pioneer.
Whats so different about the factory EX, or Si setup? I'm not tryin 2 be a smart *** just trying to understand. I think this is one of those things that I won't understand until I install my new tweeters and hear it for myself.

jz98ctr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ThaCivicAssassin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Whats so different about the factory EX, or Si setup? I'm not tryin 2 be a smart *** just trying to understand. I think this is one of those things that I won't understand until I install my new tweeters and hear it for myself. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the honda factory has to deal with one major factor....SPACE. where else can they put your speakers and have them not look totally hideous but give you decent sound and not intrude into your interior?

if you want tight imaging and soundstage you might wanna try some kickpanel mounted components. by angling the drivers and tweeters up and backwards towards your ears not only do you get better sound you don't have to turn the volume up as much to be able to hear it well. also, by doing this you also help to lessen frequency cancellation caused by properly phased speakers basically aimed at each other (ex. speakers at the bottom front of your doors).

you can simply replace the factory speakers in their existing locations and it will sound better than stock. you can also add additional tweeters up higher to raise the soundstage but you will only be raising the soundstage for those higher frequencies that tweeters like to play and not for the midbass frequencies that mids like to play.

you say you have an EG correct???
if that's the case and you want some killer imaging...take out the center vent in your dashboard and put a small 4 inch or 5.25 coaxial in there and attenuate the signal a tad. that will raise the soundstage and the imaging and will help with side to side separation. if you intend to only do tweeters, however, you must cross them over properly and attenuate them slightly as to not confuse the imaging. sometimes i've found if you do more tweeters up high and it's sounds a little bit off you can wire one of the "new" tweets out of phase and it helps to smooth it out.

couple that dash mounted center channel with a set of nice kickpanel components and you got yourself a screamer.

ThaCivicAssassin

Thanks Great write up
My last 2 questions of this thread.
I will definitely do that. Thats good stuff I never thought of. I'm definitely going to do the vent mod.
What does Attenuate mean?
How would I wire a center channel speaker?

EBP_SI

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if that's the case and you want some killer imaging...take out the center vent in your dashboard and put a small 4 inch or 5.25 coaxial in there and attenuate the signal a tad. that will raise the soundstage and the imaging and will help with side to side separation. if you intend to only do tweeters, however, you must cross them over properly and attenuate them slightly as to not confuse the imaging. sometimes i've found if you do more tweeters up high and it's sounds a little bit off you can wire one of the "new" tweets out of phase and it helps to smooth it out.

couple that dash mounted center channel with a set of nice kickpanel components and you got yourself a screamer. </TD></TR></TABLE>

with proper kickpanels you shoudlnt need a center channel. second, you'll need some kind of DSP to determine what information actually goes to this channel.

more speakers is the exact oposite of what you want to do if you're having imaging problems.

jz98ctr

attenuate basically means to mute or to lessen the amount of signal/power going to that particular speaker in order to get the volume coming out of that particular speaker to match the output of all the other drivers in the car properly. basically
you would not want the "new", higher tweeters to be louder than those of your doors or there would be no point to having them lower in the door at all because you would not be able to hear them because they'd get drowned out. so what you might do is add a high pass x-over on those tweets that has some sort of attenuation circuit built in.
if you've ever seen an adjustacle passive x-over for a component set you know what i mean. sometimes if you pop off the x-over cover there is a little swicth inside that might say 0 db....-3db....-6db......this is the tweeters attenuation circuit. most people would not even choose to move this little jumper to the proper place to get better sound. it also depends on what you are looking for out of your system. if you want more overall volume and SPL than more speakers with un-attenuated signals is what you want. if you actually want your **** to sound right...set it up properly. by that i mean if you are to replace your factory speakers in their factory locations...you would hook up the passive x-over to it's input wires...wire up the midbass driver and install it...and then install the tweeter with an un-attenuated signal and put the panel back on. if it seems as though the tweeters are overbearing you can move the little jumper inside the x-over to try to getthe sound right. the easier way to do it would be to simply turn the treble down on the deck but, as we all know...just cuz it's the easiest way doesn't make it the right way.
you kinda have to play with the settings a bit. considering that you are always closer to the drivers side of the car you might want to leave the passenger side at 0db but attenuate the drivers side to -3db.

now you could get a passive x-over and wire it in by taking the positive from the left-front channel and the negative from the right-front channel, and hooking it to the center channels x-over input to get the sum from both channels. this works but not always works well. the best way to do it is to do as EBP_SI said...get a DSP to be able to run the center channel.

to that. but in order to get proper kickpanels made to get killer imaging and soundtage you have to take up more of the legroom to get the positioning right which is an inconvenience for most drivers...especially those with standard transmissions. so there has to be a little compromise with space and sound...like i said earlier about the Honda factory itself...SPACE and looks.

to that too
sometimes you need to use the K.I.S.S. method.
Keep It Simple Stupid