jepalan

Greetings,

I am replacing the OEM Remote Start Module with an aftermarket FLCAN module and code-alarm remote start. Specifics of my install are shown below.

I would like to re-use as much of the OEM remote start t-harness as possible. I can trace out most of the connections without a problem (starter wires, ignition immobilizer, headlight combo switch). BUT there are a few connectors I cannot find pinouts for. I am hoping one of the generous experts here can help. When I am done I will post my DIY install with pics here.

Vehicle: 2012 CR-V EX AWD w/ OEM remote start (same wiring as 2012 Civic)
Remote Start Harness: Honda P/N 08E92-T0A-100A
Harness install guide: http://www.bernardiparts.com/Images/...r_AII12085.pdf

I need the following pin/wire color info please...

1 connection to the OEM remote-start module…
28-pin connector that plugs into remote start module

OR...

1 connection behind driver’s A-Pillar cover…
28-pin connector behind driver’s A-Pillar where it meets dashboard

4 connections at dash fuse box…
5-pin connector at upper left of dash fuse box (heavy awg starter bundle) <--- I already have this one
4-pin fog light accessory connector on dash fuse box
8-pin connector in the center of the large middle 38-pin dash fuse box connector
24-pin connector attached to lower-right of dash fuse box

3 connectors on steering column…
7-pin ignition switch/ immobilizer connector <--- I already have this one
10-pin wiper-side of combo switch connector
12-pin headlight side of combo switch connector

MotoCARR

May I ask why you're going this route? Seems 1000x harder than it needs to be

You do know that you can wire the below features from the remote start to the FLCAN, then all you have to do is make your ignition wire connections and that's it right? Work smarter no harder!

Keyless Entry
Door Lock
Door Unlock

Security System
Arm OEM Alarm
Disarm OEM Alarm

Aftermarket Alarm Ctrl from OEM remotes
Door Stat Output
Trunk Stat Output

Remote Start
Data Immobilizer Bypass
Hood Stat Output
Tachometer Output
Brake Pedal Stat Output
E-Brake Output

In vehicle wire location pics

jepalan

MotoCARR - thanks so much, I can figure out almost everything else I need from here.

I probably wasn't clear enough, but I actually am trying to 'work smarter' here.
Yes, I understand fully how the FLCAN connects to the RS. I already have the FLCAN wired to the RS and just about ready to go.

I am not going to use *all* of the OEM harness, but here is the plan:
Remove OEM harness from vehicle.
Remove wrap from harness.
Re-use the ignition, combo switch and starter (hi current) T-Harnesses
Pick up the one or two additional connections (mainly door locks & rear defogger)

By doing this, I can wire almost everything in at my heated bench inside the house, take it out to the car, and plug in the t-harness and only have to make three solder splices in the car (unheated south dakota garage)

I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks again!

MotoCARR

Ah gotcha, I was under the impression you were trying to remove the entire OEM remote start and replace it with this one!

Glad to help, good luck.

jepalan

MotoCARR - thanks again. I successfully installed my RS today and I only have one minor issue.

When I start the car via RS, I cannot unlock the doors with the CA remote or the OEM remote. I either have to use the key in the door, or stop the car first.

The CA remote will lock and unlock the doors fine when the car is not running - so will the OEM FOBs.

Any idea where to start troubleshooting this? The only lock/unlock connections are through the FLCAN module as per the DA-HA3 wiring diagram. I have no connections going to the CA RS brain. I am wondering if the CA lock/unlock has to be diode or'd with the FLCAN lock/unlock connections?

Thanks.

jepalan

Never mind, I figured it out. FLCAN updated their firmware between November & December and for some reason they changed the wire assignment for the door lock status jumper. I downloaded the updated wiring diagram and once I moved doorlock status it to the correct wire everything started working correctly.