Telecatster

'98 Civic EX coupe. Fully dynamatted. 10 year old Audiotech Stealth 900w 4 channel amp. 6x9' Camridge Audio 3-way rears and 6.5" coaxial fronts = scioshe brand.. laugh if you want, but they sound decent for the price.
Alpine 300w mono amp. JL 10" sub in oversized ported cab.

Overall very happy with the sound, but seems to be lacking some mid bass. Part of the issue is the 3-way rears are 4 ohms and the front coaxials are 2 ohm. Also the right rear has a blown tweeter (I know doesn't effect bass).
The sub's filter is set at 40 htz (minimum) and is carrying all bass frequencies, but it is in the trunk and behind the seats which dulls projection.
So now to my questions: Is the mismatch of the 4 ohm rear and the 2 ohm the biggest issue? Are these good speakers http://car-speakers-review.toptenrev...rs-review.html for mid-bass?
Suggestions for other speakers welcomed.

NVturbo

I would replace all the speakers. You're expecting great sound out of cheap brand speakers. Can't have both.

edzy

replace upfront amp, fronts, ditch rears, deaden doors.

If you got the crossover low passed at 40hz, it's only playing 40hz and below

Set it to 80

Telecatster

Deaden doors with what? There is dynamat in the door frames and door panels.
I have raised the sub to 100 htz and IMO didn't sound as good. I have no intention to spend a lot as to me it sounds "good" as is. As I stated just searching for more mid-bass that carries rock/ska-punk,funk, bass and drums well (but not amazing).

edzy

Get a component set for the front doors

And bridge your 4 channel.

That should help.

wheelerboy12

Set your Sub low pass to 80hz, buy these 6x9's


Put them in Boxes on your rear deck, buy these boxes if you dont already have some that will work


then get these 6.5s for your doors



Those will solve all your mid bass problems, and greatly improve your sound quality.

as for the 2 ohm fronts and 4 ohm rears there shouldn't really be a problem if they are all on their own channels, and if the amp can handle 2 ohm output it should be fine but im not 100% sure, ive never seen it done, nore have i read anything about it being done, but if it hasn't fried yet i think its fine.


since it does not say anywhere im assuming your 6x9's are currently in the factory mounting spot, if you put them in boxes and leave the speaker holes open you will notice an increase in bass because it has a clean path from the trunk to the cabin.

edzy

No, please don't buy any of that junk.

Telecatster

Why not?

edzy

Because you drive from the front seat, not the back.

You need more midbass upfront..

Telecatster

That makes sense. If I buy component speakers for the front can both the mid-range drivers and 1 inch tweeters be driven by the power amp's two front channels?

Can you please recommend a 6-1/2" component set under $300

edzy

Ideally, you'd want to bridge that 4 channel to power the fronts

More power means more amplifier headroom

That autotek stealth is a good amp and will give you 450 x 2 bridged.

Under 300, i'd go with

1.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-MS-62C-6-5-2-way-Car-Component-System-MS-62-C-Brand-New-Car-Speaker-/261179576257?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item3ccf840fc1
Or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXS64-V-2-IMAGE-DYNAMICS-6-5-4-OHM-COMPONENT-SPEAKERS-/110573209811?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item19bead48d3&vxp=mtr

Telecatster

I have never bridged an amp before so I just read up on it a bit http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com...amplifier.html . If I bridge the Autotek for the front components can I use the receiver http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8xetmAG...=DST&XVVER=GRP in bridge mode (32 watts RMS total) for rear 6x9's sufficiently? I'd rather not buy and run another power amp.

edzy

yeah, run rears off hu power

Telecatster

Okay. Those speakers are in my price range, Thanks.