Honduh Chicken

Car: 1995 Acura Integra
Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-860

I'm installing a pioneer head unit, and I just bought an iPod adapter, The manual says that the ipod power harness needs a constant 12v even with key off, I wanted to wire it to the radio harness but I'm having trouble locating a constant 12V in the chassis harness. I have the yellow wire, which is 12V with ignition on, and there is another red wire labeled acc on the radio harness but the chassis only seems to put about 6 volts to that wire.

Any Ideas?

NiPBoi

run a hardwire frum the fuse box under ur steering wheel...thats what i would do...

Honduh Chicken

ok, I ran the ipod adapter to the fusebox, but I am getting no radio, and no clock. Is there a fuse under the hood that could be blown? I have checked every fuse under the dash.

*scratches head*

Honduh Chicken

it was a 15amp fuse under the hood all is well

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honduh Chicken &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it was a 15amp fuse under the hood all is well </TD></TR></TABLE> The constant power, [back up] that would go to the yellow wire of the aftermarket HU is white w/ yellow or blue tracer on the oem radio harness, it should be fused with a 7.5A fuse in the engine bay fuse box, and you say it's a 15A, did the 7.5A one blow at some point and replaced with a 15A one? [ common problem when installing an aftermarket HU] unlike on the oem HU where the constant power is for memory only, [needs very little power] aftermarket HUs constant power is like an amps main power, it is power for the HUs internal amp, [that is much more powerfull then the oem HU] and will need more then 7.5A, but replacing the 7.5A with a 15A can cause sever damage to the wiring harness, and should never be done. The best thing to do, [works better also] is to run a fused line, [12 or 10 gage] from the batt. to the yellow line on the HU, [just like you would an amp] 94

BTW... did you use the constant power free pin on the fuse box for your iPod?

Honduh Chicken

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The constant power, [back up] that would go to the yellow wire of the aftermarket HU is white w/ yellow or blue tracer on the oem radio harness, it should be fused with a 7.5A fuse in the engine bay fuse box, and you say it's a 15A, did the 7.5A one blow at some point and replaced with a 15A one? [ common problem when installing an aftermarket HU] unlike on the oem HU where the constant power is for memory only, [needs very little power] aftermarket HUs constant power is like an amps main power, it is power for the HUs internal amp, [that is much more powerfull then the oem HU] and will need more then 7.5A, but replacing the 7.5A with a 15A can cause sever damage to the wiring harness, and should never be done. The best thing to do, [works better also] is to run a fused line, [12 or 10 gage] from the batt. to the yellow line on the HU, [just like you would an amp] 94

BTW... did you use the constant power free pin on the fuse box for your iPod?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, I just jumped off a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse block in the dash. Now that I have constant power in the radio harness again, I would like to rewire it into the radio harness so it's a cleaner install, I hate running wires under the drivers dash into the fuse block.

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honduh Chicken &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea, I just jumped off a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse block in the dash. Now that I have constant power in the radio harness again, I would like to rewire it into the radio harness so it's a cleaner install, I hate running wires under the drivers dash into the fuse block. </TD></TR></TABLE> As I said you are probably drawing more power for the HU off the constant power wire, [white w/yellow or blue tracer] on the oem radio harness then it was designed for already, adding even more, will just be a bigger problem, on the in car fuse box there are "free pins" they are for when you need power for extra things, there is a row of them, a constant power,an acc. power, a 2nd ign. power and a park light power, use the constant power one for the iPod, or better yet, do like I suggested and run a line from the batt. and connect the HUs yellow and the iPod adpt. to that wire, I guarantee your HU will sound better, and you won't take a chance smoking that oem constant radio harness power wire, if it goes it will take other wires along with it. 94

Honduh Chicken

So you are suggesting that I run a dedicated power wire from my battery as you would an amp? I've never heard of that before, but it makes sence. The head will SOUND better really?

fcm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honduh Chicken &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you are suggesting that I run a dedicated power wire from my battery as you would an amp? I've never heard of that before, but it makes sence. The head will SOUND better really? </TD></TR></TABLE> Yes run the wire, and yes the HU will sound better, the amp in the HU can't get enough power from the oem constant power, no matter what size fuse you install. Did I mention not to replace fuses with bigger ones. Think of it this way, you have a 500 watt amp in the back of the car and you have run a 12ga. power wire to it and installed a 100 amp fuse at the batt. do you think the amp will perform as it should? 94

Honduh Chicken

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Yes run the wire, and yes the HU will sound better, the amp in the HU can't get enough power from the oem constant power, no matter what size fuse you install. Did I mention not to replace fuses with bigger ones. Think of it this way, you have a 500 watt amp in the back of the car and you have run a 12ga. power wire to it and installed a 100 amp fuse at the batt. do you think the amp will perform as it should? 94 </TD></TR></TABLE>

ohh I fully understand about resistance and fuse protection, I just didn't know that the amp inside the head unit drew that much power! I'm supprized that the Manual doesn't recommend a dedicated power wire. Actually, the tag on the radio harness DOES say "Batt (+)" humm.. interesting. I never knew that.

BTW: What's with the "94" after every post?

fcm

94 is the year of my teg, it is also me autocross race number, and it has become my sig. when I post here and on g2ic.com 94

Honduh Chicken

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">94 is the year of my teg, it is also me autocross race number, and it has become my sig. when I post here and on g2ic.com 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice, I wish I could autox my integra.

I can't because I get nasty turbo lag, then when it spools I'd better be straight otherwise it's going to go in which ever direction the car is pointed.

fcm

LOL yea that's the same problem the turbs have here also, I run NO2 a progressive 30 to 75 shot, I compete in the outlaw class, nuttin better the spanking stang 5.0s and vettes