talkJDM

Hey Guys,

I tried searching and what not, but I cannot find anything on this question that I have. I need to Connect a wire into a 12V Constant Power that's Fused Source - meaning that it provides a constant power, but also has a fuse. My car is a 1996 Honda Civic, below is the Underdash Fuse Panel, can anyone point out which one I should use? I need it not only to be a 12V Constant, but also to be fused source.

The thing is I am currently using 1 (C926) as the Constant 12V, but it's not working properly because it draws directly from the battery (I think). My conclusion to this was because after some time with the Alarm System active, the car wont start. I'm installing a 515R Backup Siren onto my Car and it says ...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Red: (+) 12V Constant: Connect to a fused source of constant 12V. Be sure to connect this wire to a source capable of handling the required current draw.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now, I know that I can use 1 (C926), but is it a fuse sourced connection? If so, which is the fuse for it, maybe its blown or something. I dunno, any thoughts? Please help me out ... Thanks ...

JasonGhostz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by talkjdm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now, I know that I can use 1 (C926), but is it a fuse sourced connection? If so, which is the fuse for it, maybe its blown or something. I dunno, any thoughts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Socket #1, while part of the Under-The-Dash FuseBox, actually connects to the Under-The-Hood FuseBox. The Helm Manual (p23-71) shows this line is eventually fused at the Under-the-HOOD Fuse/Relay Box. It is a 40A fuse at position #54.

I don't know if this will solve your problems, but this is what I can gather from "The Book"... Eventually the others will help you with what you need...

Good luck!
JasonGhostz


Modified by JasonGhostz at 2:12 AM 6/5/2008

talkJDM

Jason,

Thanks for your help ... So I went to the UTH Fuse Box, and checked out the fused that you were talking about. Tested it, and its fine ... Any other thoughts? Should I increase it to a higher Amp Fuse, maybe 15A? Below is a pic of the Fuse I tested, that's the one you were talking about right?



If anyone has installed the DEI 515R on their car and wants to share where they connected the Red 12V Constant to, that would be much appreciated. Or if someone else has any ideas or thoughts on how my problem can be fixed, please let me know as well. Thanks guys ...

B18C_EJ8

NEVER use a higher value fuse than the one that was originally in there.

If the 12v constant free pin is not functioning, then I would just go ahead and test each fuse in the car...

And by "test", I mean just that. Just looking at the fuse is not sufficient.

Use a meter and test for continuity.

talkJDM

Well thanks for the help ... I did BTW properly test the #43 Fuse with a meter, I did not just look at it. I guess I'll have to take some time out and sit down to test each f'n fuse that's on the car see what's going on.

Anyone else have any other thoughts or ideas? Or know if there is another 12V Constant on the 96-00 Civics that's a Fused source connection in the Under-Dash Fuse Box?

fcm

By "C926" do you mean the constant power free pin on the under dash fuse box?
If so yes it is a fused constant power, but it is on the main fuse.
Use the free pin and install the recommended fuse in-line. 94

talkJDM

^ Yeah by 1 (C926), I meant the Free Pin that's under the dash's fuse box.

Anyways, I will go ahead and try the In-line Fuse connection, but what fuse should I use? You said, "install the recommended fuse," but that's just it - the instructions do not say. All they say is ...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Red: (+) 12V Constant: Connect to a fused source of constant 12V. Be sure to connect this wire to a source capable of handling the required current draw, such as the ignition harness or the battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

From your knowledge and experience what fuse should I install in the In-line Fuse Holder? Also, which In-line Fuse Holder, should I purchase from Radio Shack (CLICK HERE)?

fcm

Sorry, can't find any info on a 515R but the A515ESP... http://www.directeddealers.com...e.pdf uses a 3A fuse on it's red lead, and I can't see any backup batt. siren needing anything bigger, maybe 5A. 94

talkJDM

^ Well thanks for the info, I trust your advice cause I know you know your electrical ****, lmao ... So, from the list here, which one would you suggest I buy for the In-Line Fuse Holder?

chrisw85

http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch

would work fine just buy the fuse seperate.

fcm

Because your fuse box uses blade type fuses, use the same type of holder... http://www.radioshack.com/prod...earch 94

wdesigns

Best option is to use an In-Line fuse and splice into your Ignition Harness. The constant wire runs at 40 amps and should be plenty for the siren.

talkJDM

Well just wanted to thank everyone for their input and for helping me out ... Especially fmc, ...

I did the Inline Fuse and now the problem of the battery dying seems to be gone ... I will elave the alarm active for a couple of hours and get back to you guys on whether the problem is completely resolved or not, but I think it is

talkJDM

Okay so officially the Inline Fuse solved the problem. Last time this problem had happened I left the car with the alarm activated for like 45 Minutes and then the car wouldn't start, now I left the alarm active for almost 5 hours, went to deactivate it and turn the car on and it did so perfectly. Thanks guys, hope this thread helps someone else in the future, if not, I'm glad I did it cause it helped me ...

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

The fuse did not make the car stop draining the battery. You said the free pin does not work. What ever is on that circuit is the the problem and thats why that circuit does not work.

talkJDM

The Free Pin does work, I was using it before for my Fog Lights and had no problem, I added the Inline Fuse and now the Alarm works with the Free Pin too ... I never said it didnt work, it was just not doing what I wanted it to do, guess too much voltage coming out of it and it needed a fuse ...

fcm

The in-line fuse has nothing to do with the drain on the batt, [fixing the drain on the batt.] the load, [fog lights, alarm backup batt. siren, whatever] draws the same amount of current with or without a fuse in the line, the fuse is only there to protect the line if the load, [current draw] exceeds what the line can carry, or what the load needs.
EG; if you have a load that needs/uses a little under 3A, [lets say a backup batt. siren] the wire running to it, [red] is 16ga, 16ga wire can carry 15A, so you would never install a bigger then 15A fuse on that line, but if the load only needs 3A you would install a 3A fuse, it makes no diff. to the load, the wire or the batt. if a fuse is installed or not, unless and until there is a problem, if the draw exceeds the fuse rating the fuse will blow, and that is the only reason the fuse is there. 94

talkJDM

Okay well whatever, I just know that the Inline fuse solved the problem I was having, because now the car starts when the alarm has been armed for a while, before it didnt due to the Backup Siren. I dunno, Im just glad the Inline fused solved my problem, I dont really care to understand how it works or whatever, electricity isnt my field ...

B18C_EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by talkJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I dunno, Im just glad the Inline fused solved my problem, I dont really care to understand how it works or whatever, electricity isnt my field ...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol...

talkJDM

^ lol, im just being honest ... hahaha ...

Nah, but I understand what they were saying and I know that the inline fuse has nothing to do with "fixing" the actual "draining of the battery" problem that I had before. But, in the other hand, it stopped it, why? I dont know.

I'm guessing it was draining the battery because I have both the Fog Lights and the Backup Siren installed to this Free Pin, since they both need a constant power. Now, since the fuse is there it helps even out the load and in any case the fuse will blow before the battery actually gets drained out or something. Like I said, electricity isn't my field so I dont knwo if what I just said is true or some bullshit I just came up with lol but, I'm just glad that this In-line Fuse idea was brought up because it helped me out and solved my problem.

suspendedHatch

NO, NO NO! expletive!

A fuse is nothing different than a small segment of bare wire in a plastic container so you can see it. It's designed to be the weakest part of the wire, so if too much electricity goes through it, it melts and no electricity can flow. If your fuse hasn't melted, IT ISN'T DOING ANYTHING. It doesn't change the electricity in any way. As far as the electricity knows, there is no fuse. Just one continuous piece of wire.

You probably changed something else in the process. If you haven't, then your problem isn't solved or it never existed in the first place. Draining batteries can be caused by so many things. A weak battery will die if you don't drive the car every day.

talkJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suspendedHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You probably changed something else in the process. If you haven't, then your problem isn't solved or it never existed in the first place. Draining batteries can be caused by so many things. A weak battery will die if you don't drive the car every day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn all of you guys were right ... I took out the car today, after like a week of not using it and it turned on perfectly. When I arrived at my destination I shut it off, stayed there for like 3-4 hours, then when I went back to my car I turned it on, and it was perfect, no problem. Then I drove about 1 mile, parked the car at McDonalds, then decided I wanted Wendy's. When I went to turn on the car, nothing. The SAME PROBLEM as before. I was like NOOOO!! So then after a long *** time and frustration of the car being off and what not, the car turned on like after 30 minutes.

Any guesses as to what it could be? My cousin was with me and he said its probably the Positive Battery Cable. He said that cause the alarm was doing like a low sound (almost as if it was dying or had low power) then he would tap the Positive Battery Cable and the alarm would blast like normal.

I just finished checking it, and the cable was kinda loose at the Positive Pole, so I adjusted it, tightened it, and cleaned the positve pole (was kinda dirty). Do you guys think that could be it? Any help would be appreciated ... thanks ...

fcm

LOL, and you where so convinced it was the fuse.

Also, the batt. terminals and ground connections would have been the first thing I would have asked you to check, but I was under the impression that the batt. was drained by the alarm and not that power was cut.

O well, it's all good now, right? 94

talkJDM

^ I know lol I was like the fuse did it, and then now Im like **** the fuse didnt do it! hahah ... oh well ...

Anyways, so do you think the reason why this was happening was that the battery terminal was loose and the poles were a bit dirty? Next time I take the car out (hopefully I dont have this problem again), I'll let you guys know if the problem occurs. I'll be using the car today to go to my friends house to watch the fight, then head back home, so we'll see what happens then ...

suspendedHatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by talkJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn all of you guys were right ...</TD></TR></TABLE>

True story.