baller status

How would I go about wiring up driver's priority unlock on a car that has power door locks but no OEM priority unlock? And with keeping the door switch functionality.

I've done it with actuators and on cars that have it from the factory. I can think of how to do it but then I wouldn't be able to unlock the passenger side with the door switch.

Alarm is a Viper 5900 (has a 2nd unlock output) and the car is a 94 Integra w/ power door locks.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

I see 2 relays and a couple of diodes should do the job. I'll write it up as soon as I get some spare time.

baller status

Nevermind. I figured it out. I kept thinking of how you can create a circuit that can tell whether the ground comes from the alarm wire or the door switch. There's no way to do it with diodes. But you can use the unlock wire to trigger a relay breaking the unlock wire connection between the driver's and passenger's actuators. Then use the 2nd unlock output to trigger a second relay for the passenger side (high current ground).

Connect alarm's lock wire to car's lock wire.
Cut car's unlock wire. Wire one end to 87A and the other to 30.
Door switches will now work as they normally do.

Connect the alarm's unlock wire to 85.
Branch off it and connect it between the relay and the driver's side actuator.
Now the alarm will only unlock the driver's side but still lock both sides.

Cut the unlock wire again, between the first relay and the passenger side actuator.
Connect the actuator side to 30.
Connect the other side to 87a.
Connect chassis ground to 87.
Connect alarm's 2nd Unlock output to 85.
Connect 86 to a fused constant 12v.

I'm going to look at the 451m tomorrow and see if I can just use that. I have a box full of them.

luciferi

you are making it too complicated.


the alarm lock output goes to normal Honda(switch) lock all wire

the alarm unlock goes to a relay to the drivers door actuator lock wire

the alarm 2nd unlock output goes to the Honda(switch) unlock all wire.

luciferi

you are making it too complicated.


the alarm lock output goes to normal Honda(switch) lock all wire

the alarm unlock goes to a relay to the drivers door actuator lock wire

the alarm 2nd unlock output goes to the Honda(switch) unlock all wire.

baller status

Let me see if I understand this.

First of all, the actuator wires are common to all actuators. Am I to understand that I cut the driver's actuator LOCK wire, then wire it like this:

actuator side of the lock wire to 30
(cap other side)
87a to ground
87 to power
85 to power
86 to alarm unlock wire

No... this isn't right. I need to sketch it out some more when I have more time to think. I think you meant the drivers actuator UNLOCK wire.

luciferi

Yeah that is supposed read to unlock not lock. You cut the drivers actuator unlock wire and loop it through the relay

Relay wiring would be

85 12v
86 alarm trigger
30 drivers motor unlock wire motor side
87a drivers motor unlock wire harness side
87 12v

baller status

That's brilliant. I don't know where you've been hiding since joining in 2003, but I hope to see you around more.

Bad_dude

I know this thread is a year old but it has good information so I'll ask my question here to keep the info together with my questions.

I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX Sedan. It does not have OEM door priority unlock. As mentioned above, you can wire it to do so. The alarm system I am looking at is the Viper 350 Responder. Here's what I would like to do:
1) Be able to press unlock or disarm the alarm and it will ONLY unlock the driver's door. Press the unlock TWICE fast when the system is disarm, and it unlock ALL DOORS. Is it possible to do it with my car and this system? If yes, how?

Link to the Viper 350 Responder installation manual: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1130
The information is on PAGE 6, toward the end of the page. It seems like it's in the remote program. If you have any experience with this working or programing to work, please show me.

I know the Avital 5303 has the dedicated 2nd wire unlock which will work with the 2 press to unlock all doors. But I don't need remote start and I don't want to wire starter kill either, requires cutting the starter wire.

Thanks.

luciferi

The easiest way is just use an aux to unlock all doors, and unlock wire to do drivers door only.

If you have to have the unlock button do it, you probably can do it with a timer, ground while armed wire, and couple relays. It really depends on the alarms timing. The ground while armed will trigger timer when it shuts off allowing a relay to activate sending unlock wire to drivers door relay. When timer ends the relay falls back and unlock wire is routed to accord's unlock all wire.

Or you can use door unlock to trigger drivers door relay and timer. While the timer is on the unlock wire will trigger car's unlock wire.

Bad_dude

So:
1) What would I need and how to wire it with the timer as you mentioned above?

2) If I get the Avital which has the 2nd unlock dedicated wire, could I do it with 2 press of the unlock button to unlock all doors and one press to unlock just the driver's door? Or even with the dedicated 2nd unlock wire from the alarm, I will still need the timer?

Thanks.

Bad_dude

Luciferi,
If I do it like this, will I still retain the OEM switch function in the car? Right now, my driver's side and passenger's side switch will open all doors. So if I wire it with the relay for door priority, will I still can use the internal OEM door switch on the driver's side to open all doors if I manually flip it?

Thanks.

Bad_dude

I have another question guys. If I wire a relay to isolate just the front driver's door would I still retain the convenient features of the alarm? Like when you turn off the ignitions all doors unlock or will feature turns to just the driver's door unlocks?
Will I still be able to unlock all doors manually from inside the car with the car OEM switch with one flip like before the alarm installation?
I ask these to weigh my options before cutting the driver's door wire to hook up the relay for the priority unlock.
Here's my alarm manual for the Crime Guard 750i6. http://www.mediafire.com/?43lh33qvfrrk1tb

This alarm system has the programmable 2 relays built in, what could I do with them? It has channel 2 for trunk release and a channel 3. The 2 programmable relays can be use as channel 4 and 5. I want to use channel 3 for the window modules.

Thanks.

baller status

All the original functionality will be maintained. When you splice into the system, you insert relays in such a way that the original circuit passes through them unaltered. If you know about relays: cut the circuit, attach one half of the wire to 87a, the other to 30. Even if you don't do anything else the circuit is now complete exactly as it was stock. Then you connect to the alarm to the relay so that it can also trigger those wires.

I hope that makes sense.

This is often referred to as "5 wire" and is commonly done on door locks for Fords.

Bad_dude

Thanks for the explanation.
For my alarm, there's a 6 pin harness for 2 relays programmable, what could I use these 2 channels for? Since I am going to use the 4 pins door lock/unlock harness.

What about if I add the windows modules, will those allow me to retain the OEM windows up/down function?
Thanks.

baller status

You have two aux outputs? You could wire them relays to do whatever you want. Hook up neons or air horns or whatever. Part of it depends on how flexible they are. Some alarms allow you to set them to ground-when-armed, ground while the button is pressed, timed ground output, or pulse ground when armed/disarmed.

Windows are the same principle as door locks. When wired in properly, the stock circuit passes through the internal relays the same as when they were not there. It's possible to screw this up when there is a factory one-touch system but there's no excuse for it.

Bad_dude

I have the Crime Guard 750i6, I bought opened box from Ebay. It's like new. The pics shows the antenna cable. I just got it today and no antenna cable. So I am waiting for them to get back to me. But I am set on the system. Even if they give my money back I am sticking with the system b/c it has many features that the much more expensive DEI wants. I have many friends with Omega products for many years and no problem.
Here's the alarm manual. http://www.mediafire.com/?43lh33qvfrrk1tb

It has 4 channels. Channel 2 is for the trunk release. Channel 3, I was going to use for the window modules. It has 2 relays built in programmable, 6 pin harness, for channel 4 and channel 5. If you notice it does not have the horn out stand alone wire like some systems have. So the Omega tech support said I can set one of those programmable channel to work with the horn out. The alarm has its own 4 pins for the locks.

So from looking at the manual, what do you think? I want to know how to wire up the relays to do it.
My car is a 1990 Honda Accord LX Sedan, so it has 4 windows.

Thanks.

Axatax

Just take your time with this -- maybe do the basic security features first and expand outward as you get the parts and feel comfortable how everything is connected. Maybe pre-wire for your convenience features, but follow-up in another session.

My first alarm with just basic security took me a few days. A good portion of this was just figuring out how the car was put together. Prepare to break some trim pieces and clips if this is your first go. You'll learn and will be able to take the car apart in the dark, literally.

Take your time, and if you're not 100% happy with how something turned out, fix it on the spot while you have the vehicle apart (else you get trapped in an endless cycle of going back and straightening things up while you can be concentrating on the next project). If you're wiring your kills as NC, there's little chance of being stranded if you need to take drive to RadioShack, etc. to get that proper connector or part.

Just take your time, plan and don't create yet another hacked up Civic with sh*tty, illogical wiring running all over the place.

Bad_dude

Hey,
With this method, I have to run a wire from the alarm brain unlock wire into the door to the relay right? Or is there a way I could do it without having to run any wire? I have to run wires into the door for the window modules but too many wires already threading through the front driver's door?
Thanks.
Thanks.