Del Namco Solo

So I have finally amp'ed my Kicker KS650's (non component) with a Crunch P-600.2 that I picked up for 80 bucks on sale a few weeks back. The power is rated 2x150@4-Ohms, 2x300@2-Ohms, 1x600@4-Ohms and no info for 2ohm bridge.

The amp is cranked, to its max, yet its only loud when the head unit is ripped to 50 (goes to 63). The speakers are hooked as follows:

The Front Left and Rear Left are hooked to the amp's left. Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. This I believe would make 2 4ohm speakers run 2ohm, giving 150 watts to both speakers which would split to 75 ohms a piece (correct me if I am wrong).

The Front Right and Rear Right are hooked to the amps left. Same way as the other set! This once again should give 75 watts per speak (and once again correct me if I am wrong).

I did not use the "high level" input on the amp, I used normal cables like you would with a subwoofer, hooked to my headunits "left right" out and not its "sub out". This gives me sound but my problem is this.....

Before I got the amp, I would crank the headunit to 50 (goes to 63) and the sound would be distorted, so I would back it down to 45 or 40 depending on the song. Now, If I want base, I can't go above 40 (which is quite low to be honest), and If I eliminate bass, I can go to 50. Its louder, but not what I was expecting.

With a 50x4 (with about 15-20rms per channel) output from the headunit, plus the 75 from the amp, how much power am I hitting?

I know that my speakers are rated 60RMS and 190PEAK, but It doesn't seem like its near 60 watts, since 60 watts in my house is ear shattering and yet the car cannot do the same?

Extra information to help explain is welcome, and thanks in advance!

fcm

You can not combine the HUs wattage with the amps wattage, the HUs internal amp is not being used.

How is the amp power and ground wired, where to and what gauge wire?

What kind of speakers, [make and model] do you have and how are they installed?

Have you checked the speaker phasing, [are you sure about the pos.(+) and neg.(-)]?

You would be better off with the amp on just the front speakers and using the HUs internal amp to drive the rear speakers.
The above assumes the speakers are properly installed, SQ and SPL from a speaker has a lot more to do with the install then it does with the amp driving them. 94

Del Namco Solo

The amp's power is directly form the battery (8 gauge as per the amp's spec), and ATM the amp is grounded to the floor base via a screw to a sanded down area (once again, 8 gauge) but later down the road I am going to lead the positive right back to the battery's negative (how I had it before but this time I didn't have enough 8 gauge left (kit came with a short length). The amp Kit I used as a Rockford one....

Kicker KS650's. 6.5 inch front and rear. The 2 way non-component set. The front are mounted in the stock plastic case thing (which I'm trying to figure out a design to replace and use a wooden one) and the rears are mounted to my Del Sol's metal stock rings (which I plan to put a piece of wood between the metal and the speaker when I can find pre-cut rings). The speakers are rated 60watts RMS and 195watts PEAK.

Yeah I wired them myself with new wires front and rear. The speaker cable I used was 14 gauge and has marked positive and negative casing.

Would that sound weird, having the front amped and the rear on the HU? or does it like sort itself out?

Also, just about how much power am I running? If the amp puts out 300 watts at 2ohms X2, is that 300 per channel, or is that split in half per channel, making it 150 watts per channel and then 75 watts per speaker since its 4 speakers instead of 2?

Later down the road I am going to buy a 5 channel crunch amp but for now I need to concentrate my bulk money to upgrading the car and make sure it doesn't fail on me (used, 130k+ miles)

p.s. I drive a Del Slow.....

edzy

You're expecting too much from puny coax speakers.

Del Namco Solo

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ker+KS650.html

These aren't your cheap low end 30 dollar coaxial speakers. Sure they aren't $1000 Focals, but there is NO REASON to spend over 200 per pair of speakers.

*Peak: 195 watts each
*RMS: 65 watts each

That's not bad at all.........

fcm

A few things...

Do not run the ground to the batt, keep the ground lead as short as possible, the cars floor pan is the best ground, although I would have used an existing bolt/stud, [seat/seat belt bolt or stud].

If the amp is making 2x300W RMS, [into 2 ohms] then the 8ga power wire can not be longer then 4' or so, [7' max], the amps model number would help.

The only use for rear speakers is "rear fill", you should not be able to "hear" them, wire the amp to the front speakers, [2x150W RMS into 4 ohms] be careful with the amps gain control.
Wire the rear speakers to the HU, disable the tweeters on the rear speakers, [high frequencies from behind you will "kill" imaging and move the sound stage back from where it should be, ideally rear fill should be mono, again so as not to effect imaging.

Remember stereo means two, unless you are running a "surround sound" system there is no need for more then two high-pass speakers, in a car rear fill mid/mid-bass can help eliminate left/right bias, [where sound sounds like it's coming from the door speakers instead of in front of you].

I think the OEM door speaker housings in your DelSol are the same as the ones in my 94 Integra and custom MDF ones are easy to make.
Now I have removed mine and replaced them with the stock ones because audio is not so important to me anymore and I have a customer who may want them, if not, you can have them, you pay shipping, I will know by the weekend, they fit a standard 6.5" speaker.

Once again edzy, you are wrong, there is no reason at all not to be able to get very good sound from a set of 6.5" coax, as you should know, it's all in the install, and 90W speakers driven with a 150W amp should sound damn good especially in something as small as a DelSol, your always so negative. 94

Del Namco Solo

[QUOTE=fcm;42972354]A few things...

Do not run the ground to the batt, keep the ground lead as short as possible, the cars floor pan is the best ground, although I would have used an existing bolt/stud, [seat/seat belt bolt or stud].

If the amp is making 2x300W RMS, [into 2 ohms] then the 8ga power wire can not be longer then 4' or so, [7' max], the amps model number would help.[quote]

http://crunchusa.net/Crunch_PowerOneAmp.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+P1+600.2.html

its a Crunch P1.600.2

The amp is to my right, behind the seat mounted to the plastic container that sits behinds the seats (not on the door of the container, the angled section) so my cable is only 2 feet from batt to amp.

Cut the rear high frequency how? cut the wire leading from the terminal to the tweeter?

I guess this week (I'm off) when I am stripping my interior to clean everything, when I reinstall the electronics, I will rewire it to as you said, amp'ing only the front and leaving the rear to the head unit.

As I said earlier, this is just for now, later I'm getting a real 5 channel but that's not until my car is running good again (this i got a few weeks ago before **** started going wrong.)

fcm

You can disable the rear tweeters by desoldering one end of the capacitor that is on the tweeter, [that way it is not permanent].

Once you get the 5ch amp you can mono the rear set, [wire speaker in series, (8 ohms) and connect them to the bridged rear channels of the amp].

A 2' 8ga is fine, but again, do not wire amps ground to the batt. 94

edzy

• RMS Power Rating:
  • 4 ohms: 75 watts x 2 chan.
  • 2 ohms: 150 watts x 2 chan.
  • Bridged, 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
• MAX Power Rating (14.4V):
  • 4 ohms: 150 watts x 2 chan.
  • 2 ohms: 300 watts x 2 chan.
  • Bridged, 4 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan.

Amp does an overrated 75 watts per channel, not 150.

It's crunch and it's a hell of a power hog so you "may" be seeing 35-40 watts from that amp on a good day.

Instead of investing in rears, replace your amp.

Del Namco Solo

You obviously can't read can you? Ever finish school?

I already stated my speakers are wired to take advantage of the 2ohm 150watts watts, (4ohm + 4ohm wired up to make 2ohm) giving each speaker 75, instead of the 4ohm 75watts being split in two making 35-40.....

Nice job paying attention to the post.....

*Advice taken from FCM, your just a ****ing moron.

You should really try to be more polite on the interwebz, you epeen get nothing from being a dick.

edzy

Cmon...You bought a shitty crunch amp and some shitty kicker speakers and you're complaining about not having phenomenal sound.

That amp is not doing anywhere near rated power, even at a 2 ohm load.

nsxxtreme

Your to nice I just chop the wire ging to the rear tweeter. Done deal you never want tweeters comming from the rear.


To OP:
The best way to check your speakers are wire correctly IMO is by ear. Having the +/- wired correctly does not always gaurantee the correct phase. Speaker location and distance can also affect the phase of the speaker. This is why a lot of home subwoofers have a switch to invert the phase of the woofer.

The best way to do this is just to fade to the front speakers. Set the bass up a little higher then normal. Volume doesn't need to be set high. Listen to your speakers if they are lacking bass invert the speaker wires. If it improves leave it if the bass goes down switch the wires back.

fcm

Because the OP 2 sets of the same speakers, [coax] if he ever blows a tweeter on a front speaker he could just resolder the cap on one of there rears and swap it out with the blown front one.

There is method to my madness or maybe thats madness to my methods. 94