rsc07c

Hey everyone. First off, I have a 2006 Honda Civic Sedan and this is my first post so I hope I'm not asking too much for being the new guy. I'm looking into buying a completely new audio system and have done quite a bit of research, but am still fuzzy about certain aspects about what will work with what. For example, I'm not sure if I need one or two amps (mono for 2 subs and a 2 channel for 2 sets of speakers?) or if I can just get one to power everything.

From what I've read, I would think each set of speakers would be "bridged" and use 1 channel each (sounds right to me, atleast). So, by that logic, I would use a 2-channel amp for my speakers and then I could bridge the subs so that they can be connected to a mono amp? Like I said, it's still fuzzy to me.

Anyway, here is the list of everything I've come up with, and it would be greatly appreciated if you guys can tell me if everything I have is compatible with one another (like are the amps strong enough to power the speakers, etc.). Thanks!

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Kicker KS600 6-1/2” 2-way Speakers (Front Doors)

• 2-way 6-1/2" speakers (pair)
• polypropylene woofer cone with Santoprene™ surround
• 3/4" Kaladex dome tweeter
• power range: 6-65 watts RMS (195 watts peak power)
• frequency response: 43-21,000 Hz
• sensitivity: 90 dB
• top-mount depth: 2"
• warranty: 1 year

Kicker KS5250 5-1/4” 2-Way Speakers (Rear Deck)

• 2-way 5-1/4" speakers (pair)
• polypropylene woofer cone with Santoprene™ surround
• 3/4" Kaladex dome tweeter
• power range: 6-45 watts RMS (135 watts peak power)
• frequency response: 45-21,000 Hz
• sensitivity: 90 dB
• top-mount depth: 2"
• warranty: 1 year

Polk MM2104 Subwoofer

• 10" 4-ohm subwoofer
• metalized polypropylene concave cone with high-roll butyl rubber surround
• non-resonant, heavy-gauge stamped steel basket
• professional grade, nickel-plated, locking push terminals
• power handling: 50-300 watts RMS
• peak power handling: 600 watts
• frequency response: 24-200 Hz
• sensitivity: 86 dB
• top-mount depth: 5-3/4"
• sealed box volume: 0.66 cu. ft.
• suitable for marine use

Polk MM2104 Subwoofer

• 10" 4-ohm subwoofer
• metalized polypropylene concave cone with high-roll butyl rubber surround
• non-resonant, heavy-gauge stamped steel basket
• professional grade, nickel-plated, locking push terminals
• power handling: 50-300 watts RMS
• peak power handling: 600 watts
• frequency response: 24-200 Hz
• sensitivity: 86 dB
• top-mount depth: 5-3/4"
• sealed box volume: 0.66 cu. ft.
• suitable for marine use

Pioneer DEH-P4000UB Head Unit

• RMS Power Output- 14 watts
• Peak Output- 50 watts
• RMS Power Bandwith- 20-20kHz
• Preamp voltage- 4 volts
• Preamp outputs- 6-channel
• EQ bands- 3

Profile P1000 2-Channel Amp

• 2-channel car amplifier
• 160 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (240 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
• 480 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
• variable filters (low-pass from 50-250 Hz, high-pass from 80-1200 Hz, at 12 dB per octave)
• variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 45 Hz)
• stereo or bridged mono output
• Tri-way capable (Tri-Way crossover required)
• preamp- and speaker-level inputs
• preamp outputs
• fuse rating: 30A x 2
• 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
• 12-1/2"W x 2-1/16"H x 10-5/16"D

Profile HA700M Mono Amp

• mono subwoofer car amplifier
• 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (350 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)
• variable low-pass filter (50-250 Hz at 12 dB per octave)
• selectable bass boost (0/6/12 dB at 45 Hz)
• variable subsonic filter (20-50 Hz at 12 dB per octave)
• variable phase control (0-180 degrees)
• MOSFET power supply and output stage
• preamp- and speaker-level inputs
• preamp-level outputs
• fuse rating: 40A x 1
• 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
• 14"W x 2-1/4"H x 9-11/16"D

Bass Slammer BS210V Sub Box

• sealed hatchback style enclosure for two 10" subwoofers
• 5/8" MDF (medium density fiberboard) with gray carpet covering
• two 0.75 cubic foot chambers with two binding post terminals
• cutout size: 9-1/4"
• dimensions: 26-3/8"W x 12-3/4"H x 11-11/16"D

Scosche OEM Head Unit Adapter Kit

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Also, is a power cap a necessity? I noticed they were pretty expensive so if I could do without one I'd rather not spend the money on it. Thanks again, any help is greatly appreciated!

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

I would switch amps, your sub amp does not have enough power. Did you allready buy all this?

rsc07c

No I have not bought anything yet, I'm double and triple checking it all before I do. How much power does the mono amp need for my subs?

siRone

Don't skimp on the amps.

gunnerman

u need more power to those subs...your speaker amp is more than adequate for the fronts. I'd go with at least 400 watts to the subs.

fcm

Continuous power handling of the sub is 300W, if you have two of them look for an amp with at least 600W RMS into a 2 ohm load, [two Polk MM2104s wired in parallel] if you are only using one sub, look for an amp with at least 300W RMS onto a 4 ohm load.

You have a sedan, are the stock speakers not 6x9s? 94

Teg LS

OP what are you going to do with the speakers? Amp 2 of them? or what?

rsc07c

The stock fronts are 6-1/2"s and I believe the rear's are 6-1/2"s also but Crutchfield is recommending 5-1/4"s for some reason.

I wanted all the speakers to be hooked up to the amp that is separate from the sub, shouldn't I?