DCRB

alright so i'm comming to the conclusion of my hatch's first proper make over, and i'm wondering if i should upgrade the alternator wiring or not. i'm thinking i should, but i want the pro's opinions. My battery is relocated to the trunk, and is a kinetic hc 800 battery, stock alternator.

as far as wiring goes i have some 4gauge rockford fosgate "1200" strand positive lead going from the fuse box to the battery, and a volvo's factory 2g thick stranded crap going to the battery. in the past i had some of the fosgate wiring going from the alternator to the fuse box, then a shucks special 4g amp kit positive wiring going to the battery from the fuse box.

ok here's what i'm going to be running as far as electrical draw goes.
all stock functions
35 watt (i think) 5000k hid's
w/e the stock wattage for brights are
fog lights (again i think 35 watts? not sure atm, but lets say 55w just to be safe)
aftermarket deck
100watts x 4 channel amp for my speakers
eventually probably an 800 watt amp (max, so like 200 watts rms?)for my sub, but rn all i have is a lame 200 watt amp
A/C
power windows
alarm

i have the hid's and the foglights on a custom made relay harness that has the power comming strait from the battery... all this is in my 88 hatch.

thanks in advance guys!

fcm

I am not sure I understand exactly how you have the relocated batt. wired.

It should be 4ga, [minimum] from batt. to starter motor with a 150A fuse as close the batt. as possible, the alt. lead can be upgraded to an 8 - 6 gauge, [bigger is pointless with stock alt.] and can be rerouted to starter motor or left at the engine bay fuse box an 8 - 6 gauge should be run from starter motor to engine bay fuse box.

Amps will not have an effect on the above leads/cables as amp powers will be connected directly to batt. 94

DCRB

i can re route it? sweeeeeeeeeeet! thanks so much! that saves me one major head ache.

as far as the starter wire goes, the previous owner worked at ford and he did the battery relocation. some volvos, i guess, come with the battery in the trunk, like bmws... and he some how salvaged the 2 gauge wiring, wich is the same style of wiring as stock battery cables (the thick stranded stuff, not the thin multi stranded stuff used in car stereo installs) from a volvo and used it in the civic for the battery relocation, which i know own. works good, never had a problem with starting issues. then i have a seperate run of 4 gauge wiring running from the battery to the fuse box

fcm

Does that mean the 2ga is not run to the starter?94

DCRB

no the 2g runs to the starter, the 4g runs to the fuse box.

I really appreciate your help, 94

PSPEC

Hey FCM

You seem knowlegable on this subject so maybe you can help me out here. I have a 1997 Accord EX. This car comes with an 80 amp alternator stock. I want to put a 130 amp alternator from a Honda Odyssey into this car. The Odyssey alternator is a stock 01 Odyssey alternator (not high output remanned or anything)

I have been reading about the "big 3" etc.

The 97 Accord is wired from the alternator, to the under hood fuse box, then to the battery.

There is a 100 Amp fuse in the under hood fust box that is name BATTERY. If I put a 130 AMP alternator in my car and run a 4 gauge rockford fosgate power cable from the alternator to the fuse box, and then from the fuse box to my positive on the battery, do I need to upgrade that 100 Amp fuse named BATTERY? I looked at the wiring diagram in the helms, and it appears that the alternator to fuse box lead goes through that 100 AMP fuse on its way to the battery. This has me confused.

I don't want to go straight to the battery and omit the ELD. I don't want to fry my fuse box. Does the 100 AMP BATTERY FUSE need to be upgraded? Can my fuse box hand 130 amps?

Is there any way to do this where I go through the existing fuse box and not around it?