BrotherAli

Installing an Encore E9 in a 1996 Accord with backup battery, tilt sensor, extra sirens, 530t window module, this will be my first system install but im confident with the right info/help this will be doable. If anyone feels up to giving some much needed advise I would appreciate it.

Links:
Alarm Manuel:
http://www.encoreautomotivesystems.c...l%20manual.pdf
96 Accord Wiring:
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...tail/1033.html


Main harness:
Red/White: Parking light relay power input, not needed (car is +)
White: Parking light---Connect to red/black wire
Black: Ground
Brown: fused/relay for two sirens, one siren connected directly (that way 1 will always go off)
Red: Constant 12v source-also connect to backup battery

Door Lock:
Blue Wire: (-)Unlock/(+) Lock pulse-Connect to Orange (-) door unlock wire?
Green Wire: (-) Lock/(+) Unlock pulse-Connect to Black/white (-) door lock?

22 Pin Harness:
1) Brown/Black (ground while running): Not needed?
2) Blue/Black: Follow this diagram from instructions?

3) Violet: (positive door switch)-not needed
4) White/Red: Tach Signal Input--Connect directly to blue tach wire?
5) Green (-) Door Trigger:- Connect to Black/White (-) Door Trigger wire
6) White: Dome Light: Connect to relay and black/white wire (- dome light wire)
7) Gray/Black: Second Starter Output-Not used
8) Black/White: Neutral Safety Input-I have an auto so is this needed? Thinking of just grounding this somewhere
9) Orange/White: Grounded when disarmed, have this complete circuit to turn on ECU bypass relay? Ill make sure everything is insulated so it cant false ground
10) Black/Green: Channel 4 (sends ground signal when activated) Connect to H2/3 (Red/White -) wire of the 530t window module?
11) Black/Violet: Channel 6 hopefully have this connected to rear defrost relay, ill see once I open it
12) Blue Wire: Ground Instant Trigger-Connect to trunk and backup battery
13) Pink: 2 Step unlock-not used
14) White/Black: Safety remote start shutdown-Connect to hood pin
15) Orange Wire: Ground when armed-Connect to 530t window module and to starter kill


16) White/Violet: Positive Remote Start Shut Down-Connect to brake pedal
17) Yellow: (-) ground for ignition 3/remains grounded while running-not needed
18) Gray: (-) trunk output-Connect to trunk relay+actuator
19) Brown/White: (-) Horn output-Connect to relay+horn
20) White/Blue: (-) Instant Start & Turn Off Input-Says used for testing, not needed
21) White/Green: Diesel-Not needed
22) Black/Red: Channel 5 (-) output-Think windows go up if I hit arm button so this shouldnt be needed but if they dont then ill use this for windows up function on 530t

6-Pin Remote Start Harness:
1) Red: Remote Start power 1-Connect to constant 12V
2) Red: Remote Start power 2-Connect to constant 12V
3) Violet: Starter Output-Alittle confused on this here is the diagram given:



4) Pink: Ignition 2 Power-Connect to white/black ignition 2 wire
5) Yellow: Ignition 1 Power-Connect to black/yellow ignition 1 wire
6) Brown: Accessory Output (heater/ac)-connect to yellow accessory wire

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Well you seem to have everything listed out. Solder and tape and hide everything good.

BrotherAli

Thanks but im not sure I got everything right. I was kind of winging it since this is my first time doing this.

wrx-killer-Sti-eater

iTrader: (1)

Just take your time and test every wire you tag. Get yourself a good multi meter. Post up any problems you have and we will help you out.

fcm

Red/white is needed, must be connected to a 12V constant source, it is best not to use the same source as the alarms 12V constant, [as shown in wiring diagram].

15 )range, install diodes on the orange lead before the 530T and starter cut relay to isolate the 530T and starter cut relay to isolate them from each other.

3 Violet, starter output, connect the starter lead after the A/T Gear Position Switch on the side of the shifter. 94

BrotherAli

First off I appreciate your help.

Its interesting you say that. I went back and looked at the harness and it is already connected to the 12V red wire. Both the red/white and red wire have fuses but the red/white is pre-connected to the red. The instructions now make more sense, they mean if its 12V+ then the harness is good to go but if the parking lights are - then to cut and connect red/white to ground.

Thanks for the rest I have made note of these! So its important to diode multiples on orange and blue wires? Im assuming the diode alows electricity to flow from alarm brain to sensor (orange) and from sensor to brain (blue wire)? So thats the way to install the diodes?

fcm

The orange is a ground out when armed, the diodes prevent a ground from one unit to interfere with the ground of the other, for ground isolation the diodes on the orange lead will be both cathode, [end with white band] connected together and to the orange lead, then the anode end of each diode to the load, [starter cut relay and 530T].

On trigger leads, blue outputs from sensors, it's the other way around.

Just keep in mind a ground can only "travel" from the cathode end to the anode end of the diode. 94

BrotherAli

Thank you sir that clears it up. Now do you happen to know which wire behind the speedo is the tachometer for a 96 accord? I heard its purple but there is also a blue wire....Reason im asking is I took it out looking for good spots for my brain/battery and figured it would be MUCH easier to just tap it there if possible.

Here is why I think it might be the purple wire, but he didnt seem 100% sure:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/tach-signal-wire-97-accord-3019297/

Bad_dude

Do you have a manual for your car? Maybe you could find the diagrams there.

Bad_dude

According to the diagram of the manual I looked at, it's blue under the hood and black as it goes to the cluster. Helm's manual, page 23-133. If you need the manual, I could upload and link for you.

Edit: Here you go. http://www.mediafire.com/?21rt1eiacxad0wl

BrotherAli

Sweet thanks, and I was able to see how to test it (V should go up with RPMs).

BrotherAli

So currently like 3 wires are screwing me up. I found a black/white wire on a ~20pin grey connector that is on the right of the steering column (left side when laying under the dash). When I probe this it goes from 12.35V to 12.0V for lock wire, im assuming this is the wrong wire since it should go to negative right? Also whats the difference from black/white door lock wire and black/white door trigger? I found the trunk trigger but having a hard time finding the door trigger. In the same harness that has the orange trunk trigger there is a black/white wire (same one I probed above) and it doesnt seem to be the door trigger, I press in the door switch and nothing happens (I just get constant 12V).

fcm

The lock and unlock leads, [black/white and orange] do not "go to ground" they are ground triggered and are found in a gray plug above the fuse box taped to wire harness with blue tape, it is the OEM alarm plug, you will also find the trunk and door triggers on the plug.94

BrotherAli

Thanks alot fcm....id buy you one of these

Well I made huge headway today. Turns out I had the right door trigger wire but because I tore out my speedo and some other things my doors dont trigger the dome light to come on (and hence my probing with multimeter didnt trigger when I triggered the door switch). As soon as I turned the dome light on bingo. For future readers: behind the speedo, the blue wire on the very left harness is the tach, when tapping into the brake switch harness I found it easier to unbolt 4 bolts, 2 are supporting the steering colum and the other two are supporting the wheel to the dash; this gives you more room (dont forget to wedge something under the wheel so it doesnt come flying down). Also found the three pin gray connector that is taped with blue tape on one of the harness for door locks. Man the door trigger and door locks were holding my install back.......

Four quick questions

1) On my 22 pin there is the diagram that I posed on "2) Blue/Black: Follow this diagram from instructions?"

Whats the purpose of this and any ideas on how I probe to find the ON wire and ignition coil? Alittle explination of the diagram and how im suppose to wire it up would be awesome. I look at it but get alittle confused, I know 30 and 85 are the 12V in but idk the rest.

2) Do I need to fuse after each (+) relay on 87 or 30 pin? Thinking 2 amp for the sirens as a precaution from theifs shorting them. Maybe 15 amp for trunk actuator, defroster (if I need them)?

3) What do I need to wire up for the dome? I know I should use a relay but unsure what to connect/how to connect? Do I use the same black/white as the door triggers?

4) Any ideas for a defrost relay/trigger on my aux channel?

fcm

1- The diagram is very confusing, it is labled as a 2nd acc., [not needed in your case] but the diagram only shows it wired to the ign.1 circuit, again you do not need a 2nd acc, so I would just depin the lead to get rid of it.

2- Fuses on the output of relays running sirens to prevent sorting out the system is a good idea, the input powers for the trunk release and defog relays should be fused.

3- Yes, use a relay to supply a ground to the same black/white as the door trigger.

4- Find what the output of the rear window defrost switch is [pos.(+) or neg.(-)] and what lead it is off the defrost switch and use a relay to supply that to the defrost switch output lead. 94

BrotherAli

Thanks again FCM ....

Another question that I thought of, I did my main relay kill like this:


But when I remote start wont it likely not remote start since the brain will be sending a ground from the orange wire? Any way around this?

If its not a problem then second question is:


How would I incorporate an anti grind to go with the starter kill?

fcm

The main relay kill would not work for remote start, unless you also wired the systems status, [ground out when remote starting] lead to the main relays side of the ground lead, then the remote start will supply the ground.

On most remote start systems the starter cut relay also works as the anti grind relay.

Don't forget the systems starter output lead must be on the #30 side of your starter cut relay. 94

BrotherAli

.....Not seeing a ground when remote starting instead I have these
IDK if this might work

Gray / Black WIRE: 200 mA (-) Second Starter Output.
This line can be used if a second starter line is needed. Some vehicles require a two-starter line to remote start. This wire provides a negative output that will work the same way as the Violet starter line in connector H1.

Thinking good chance this would work

Yellow wire – (-) 200mA Ignition 3 Output –
This wire provides a 200mA (-) ground output that becomes active 4 seconds before the remote start unit initialize, and remains grounded while running

EDIT: And assuming if the main kill relay needs to a system status then the starter kill will need one as well?

Just found this:
Start Status (Shock Sensor By-Pass Control) Output–
This wire is designed to by-pass shock sensor module. This wire will supply an output at all times the remote
start is operating plus an additional 3 seconds after the remote start unit turn off.

----If this is the right one how should I incorporate this into the relay? Think its a wire on the shock sensor harness (not at home ATM), just splice it to the ground side of main relay; what about on the starter relay (wont it be in the engine bay?). Thanks for your help im on the homestretch of the install, just a few sticking points.