nonpoint986

Maybe we can get a thread started for wire matching. Im a broke college student and cant afford a install. So i thought i could install it myself lol THERE ARE A LOT OF WIRES I was wondering if someone could help me with just the wire colors. Location would be nice but otherwise i can find it.

i DO have a Chilton Manual to help me out but i dont really have time looking at this book for about 10 hours lol. Just looking for alittle help.

I bought the viper 5901 and i drive a 97 civic ex. The frustrating model

Lets get started on what colors should match up. i will type all the harness info out.

H1/1- RED/WHITE (-) 200mA AUX/TRUNK OUTPUT
H1/2- RED (+) 12DC CONSTANT INPUT
H1/3- BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
H1/4- WHITE/BROWN PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE pin 87a on onboard rly H1/5- BLACK (-) GROUND
H1/6- VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/7- BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C N/O)
H1/8- GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C N/O)
H1/9- BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT
H1/10- WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/11- WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/12- ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

H2/1- LHT GRN/BLK (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/2- ORG/BLK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT
H2/3- GRN/WHT (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT
H2/4- VIOL/BLK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/5- WHT/BLK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/6- WHT/VIOL (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/7- GRY/BLK (-) 200mA DIESEL WAIT TO START (dont think we need this one LOL)

H2/8- BRW/BLK (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT
H2/9- VIOL/WHT TACHOMETER INPUT
H2/10- DRK BLU (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
H2/11- PINK/WHT (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
H2/12- ORG (-) 200mA ACC OUTPUT
H2/13- PRPL (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
H2/14- PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
H2/15- GRY (-) 200mA HOOD PIN INPUT (N/C N/O)
H2/16- BLU/WHT (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFFOGER OUTPUT
H2/17- BRW (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT
H2/18- BLK/WHT (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT

I found this other info on another forum post. Was posted generously by "FCM" Looks to be correct

H3/1 pink, to cars black/yellow.
H3/2 red/white, to 12V constant.
H3/3 orange, to cars yellow.
H3/4 violet, starter side of cars cut black/white lead.
H3/5 green, key side of cars cut black/white lead.
H3/6 red, to 12V constant.
H3/7 pink/white, to cars white/black and program as 2nd acc.
H3/8 pink/black, not needed.
H3/9 red/black to 12V constant.

All the above must be connected and flex relay programed to 2nd acc. output.
The blue/white (-) 200mA 2nd status/rear defogger output of 5 pin connector or the blue (-) 200mA status output must be connected to the black/blue lead of the CIS, [clutch interlock switch., or connect the H3/4 violet, starter output, after the cars starter/starter cut relay, it will be a black/red lead at the relay.



Then there is also the door locks.

1-Blue (-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY
3- GREEN (-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT

Wow did that take a while lol.
THANK YOU EVERONE!! dont think you really have to bump this because there is only 2 pages of threads

nonpoint986

found some more info

2 VOLT CONSTANT FAR LEFT FUSE BOX OUTPUT
STARTER BLACK/WHITE IGNITION HARNESS OR FUSEBOX
IGNITION BLACK/YELLOW IGNITION HARNESS OR FUSEBOX
PARKING LIGHTS (+) RED/BLACK REAR QUARTER
DOOR TRIGGER (-) LIGHT GREEN/RED DRIVER'S RUNNING BOARD
TRUNK TRIGGER (-) BLUE/BLACK REAR QUARTER
FUEL PUMP (+) YELLOW/GREEN DRIVER'S RUNNING BOARD
POWER LOCK (-) GREEN/WHITE DRIVER'S KICK
POWER UNLOCK (-) GREEN/ORANGE DRIVER'S KICK

geneeunit

go on 12volt.com and search for your car, and it will have all the wires you need. HALF of the wires for the 5901 aren't needed on your car. and even less if you're not using the remote start.

fcm

http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpag...12651&MakeID=3 94

nonpoint986

^^wow that really helps out a bunch thank you

nickelz34

i too am looking at this same alarm for our civic that got broke into and nearly hotwired . is this a very hard install and what would one expect to pay for a install for this alarm without remote start ? would it be cheaper if i prepped everything and had dash pulled and panels pulled as well so all they had to do is wire things ?

fcm

No, it is not a hard install, if you have the tools and are comfortable around 12V wiring.

Pulling the dash is only needed if you are doing a "full on" stealth install, most installers, myself included, do not like to put things together that someone else took apart.

Also keep in mind, the car is not drivable if the dash is pulled.

Basic alarm install should not be over $200, including light flash, starter cut, door locks, hood pin and trunk/hatch trigger. 94

bmorei9s08

hey man im trying to prep wire the same alarm. i do know that all the (-) 200mA outputs in the h2 harness can be removed unless you plan to add other items like tilt sensor and stuff. the diesel wait comes out, same as the (-)200mA acc., starter, flex relay, ignition1. your neutral safety go to your e-brake wire. in the main harness(h1) you can remove the aux output, parking light isolation wire, door trigger input and dome light supervision.

nonpoint986

ok...so im at the part where i have to wire up h3/4 and h3/5 h3/7 listed above. I found 3 wires black/white wires that are the same lol one comes right off the ignition and the other 2 come out of a relay?? can anyone give me kinda a direction. this is the hardest part.

the other ones i dont know about is h1/10, h1/12, h2/11, h2/13, h2/14, h2/17,

those are the only ones thar are giving me a hard time

qhondak

H1/12 ground this wire. Even if you didn't install all the other options such as flashing lights, door triggers, door locks and unlocks, by grounding the alarm groundH1/5, wiring the H1/2 constant, and grounding this H1/12 wire you will have a functioning alarm. Ofcourse, it'll do nothing though, haha. Wire up the antenna and LED light, some maybe all in one, and siren and really see if it works or not. Otherwise, listen for clicks from the alarm module by triggering the remote.