JDM.RoRo

im more concerned about the "civic" and i have Vti going on the back of mine so this is just perfect

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Hi Everyone: So I wired this subwoofer in last November but the unit itself had some problems, namely a dying speaker, mainly due to age. I sourced a replacement out but before I could hunt for one another user offered one up. It's an unusual size for a sub, and you can't just find a replacement on Crutchfield.

Anyway it packs a bit of punch and I'm pleased as to have it all wired in finally. Note next to it are my JDM Rubber tire chains, which are also built for life in Canada.

weatherall123

The LSD installation seems like it was quite the task! I bet you were extremely happy once it was all said and done. I'm looking forward to updates on how it feels once the roads clear up a bit...



Question - is this also the factory location for the ABS decal? I believe the LSD/ABS combo decal also goes here, but I haven't heard or read much on just the ABS decal...

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

It's true. I kinda forgot about all the aggravation involved after I got it back on the road.

Yes. Centre the ABS/LSD decal in the same spot.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Hi Everyone,

Small update. Got my long rear hatchback mudflaps mounted. I suspect, though I can't be positive, that I am the first person in North America with these long *Hatchback* mudflaps. Anyway, on to the show.



Assuming you've already got a set of regular mudflaps, first you need to source out the proper hardware if none came with the set you bought. I have lots of Honda fasteners etc., kicking around and I dug up the two sets of these that I needed. You can poach them from lots of other Hondas with mudflaps.



Since these are longer, they occupy the top hole in your rear bumper arch. This is where the extra hardware is inserted. Very straight-forward.



Sit back when you're done and marvel at your upgrade.



And, another perspective (taken the next day after snow):

weatherall123

Those look very good!

BiggieBert

Is that rust around the arch?? Doesnt look good however, the mud flaps do look good!

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Yep, it's reappearing at the back quarter. Doesn't take long here. Arch is just dirt.

¡¡4drWHORE!!

wow, this thread is awesome deschlong. I love all the OEM goodies
Where did you locate those mudguards. I've been searching for some with no luck.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Have a contact in NZ. Actually, I'll be there starting in June so I'll keep an eye out.

¡¡4drWHORE!!

If you could find some that would be awesome. Maybe keep me posted on things you find. Been looking for a few things for my hatch. : )

chrysler kid

Alright I have to ask.

A. How intact is the old vx
B. can you post pictures of it


Hatches are very uncommon and vx hatches get outstanding fuel economy. It may not be worth asking, but if I was to pay shipping with a promise to restore and not part out would you be interested in me possibly saving it?

There is no rust here in Texas and no rust testing, only smog and standard brake and headlight testing for safety. The only eg hatches here are covered in dents, missing interiors, and ratted gutted and wrecked. It would be considerably easier to restore rust damage than to buy an eg shell with a tweaked frame for $1500. Yes an eg shell fetches $800-$1600 down here, but I'm more interested in the vx for its history of engineering for fuel economy. I love e body style but a running and driving eg hatch is uncommon and are expensive.

Again no rust means it lives a lot longer than it would have up north. And judging by your collection I'm guessing parting out a factory hatch is not a very quick process with your access to Jdm cars. It's not about the money really it's about saving it, but you probably already cut the wheel for scrap

You could have already parted most of it out, and shipping could be astronomical but It never hurts to ask.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ Frame is rotted and unsafe. It is not a viable car anymore. Funny thing is, soon after I moved it inside, I found that EX-V for sale. It's AT, so the VX motor is going in it, and being converted to a VX sedan. Meaning, I'll be creating a CDM version of the JDM ETi/EDM VEi.

This is all happening VERY soon as I am preparing for NZ, and will be striking these projects off my list in short order. Tick-tock....

chrysler kid

The vx was never offered in auto here in the states that I'm aware of, or are you saying that you are converting the sedan to manual using the vx engine and transmission

I wouldn't be using it as a viable car, it would be a restoration using floor pans and subframe pieces from other civics. I can find sedans and coupes in any junkyard and with a welder restore any major defects. There is no rust here in any junk yard, however there are also no hatches

Just thought I would ask before it hits the scrapper.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

$50 and it's yours. Just come and get it. Technically it is a converted CX, I don't know if that changes your mind any. Won't have the motor, and all the MT stuff will be stripped, and going in the EX-V. You can have a D16Z6 to go with it if you want. Interior won't be 100% complete either. You'll have to hurry, I don't have much time left (~3-4 weeks). Otherwise it's scrapper time. I'd love to see it saved as this was my first car ever, and the subject of almost all my DIYs you see on this site.

chrysler kid

I have 5 vehicles, my personal civic being my fun daily driver. Wife wants to restore a car, she's thinking an old American muscle car, but there is no way I'm tackling a 60 year old bondo boat. Civic is logical in size and more practical for our 3 car garage

Pm me pictures I don't even know what condition it's really in or what shipping is, just wanted to ask for the hell of it.

But yeah I literally can't drive to Canada for a shell, I Would need to arrange a company to have come to ship it through a transport

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Importing a Canadian car also adds a layer of annoyance. I can help you through that though.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

I'll even throw in 6 VX rims. You'd be better off to come and get it on a car trailer than having it shipped. It's rusted. A lot.

chrysler kid

Yeah shipping quote was $1700. It's not worth the hassle but I assume it would just be labeled as car parts if the engine was in the trunk

It would be a 4 day round trip drive, it's 20 hours to michigan from here

Nope. She's destined to be a chicken coupe or scrap pile

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

OH I'm a lot further than Michigan....

chrysler kid

Yeah

But here are the only local options for eg hatches

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/4983172686.html

http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/4991259091.html

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4969125853.html

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Hi Everyone,

Couple more bits completed:

Finally installed the stainless steel roof sills. Donated from the donor JDM EG6 in my garage. These are an OEM feature on some JDM EG6s. Nice little unique touch.


And the OEM rear lower sway bar, too, went on. 15mm, found on JDM EG6s and del Sols with the B16 motor. Thing is with these is the weld nuts are not present on my rear subframe, so I had to find my own hardware. I used a serrated M8x1.25 flange nut (whiz nut) and a washer, to spread out the force of the tightened bolt over a larger area. Fairly easy to get my fingers in there to get them on; pretty easy upgrade. Definitely recommend you chase out the threads on the LCA too before you bolt everything in... lots of gunk caked up in there.

Mr Rattles

Seriously enjoyed reading this build thread and will be following from now on waiting for some more OEM goodies

flat_eric

The EJ1 coupe also has the same lower rear stabilizer. But nice work.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

A close-up of these JDM Honda Access Optional rims that I got, and also another little goodie I picked up. Shift boot is brand new, as far as I can tell. There's not a mark on it. Rims will be mounted on the Sedan for now.