03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
09-26-2009, 03:34 PM
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03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
Brake System
- Earls Stainless Steel Braided -3an Line
- There are many different lengths you can obtain from summitracing.com.
- Brake Master Cylinder/Clutch Master Cylinder/ Bulkheads
- The stock threads on these components are 10x1.0mm. The adapters are from Earls the fittings are male-male adapters -3an to 10x1.0mm.
- Fitting List
- 2 -3an T's
- 8 -3an to 10x1.0mm adapters ( bulkheads,cmc,bmc,prop valve)
- 7 Brake lines various lengths. mostly 36" 10" 26" and one very long one for the right front brake
- Remote battery terminals
- Can be found on summitracing for around 18$ they utilize a 1.25" hole.
- A/C Delete
- The ac lines have been removed for now until the time come where i get some custom ones made. The A/C compressor will be removed and the belt replaced with P/N 6PK1145. This is a shorter belt and allows you to delete the ac compressor
- Coolant lines
- They have been removed from the firewall. You can cut one of the coolant hoses down to just loop the 2 outlets to each other. you also can use the same clamp.
- Locations
- Underhood Fuse Box is now under the dash. There are about 6 wire you have to extend in order to push the harness back through the firewall grommet.
- The Battery is located in the cubby near where some people like to mount the underhood fuse box.
- The EPS unit is also located in that cubby as well in the right front fender.
- The secondary fuse box is located in the left front fender and from there the starter wire goes through a hole in between the firewall and the fender spot welds.
- The Power feed for the starter (before the fuse) comes under the wiper cowl, through another hole in the right front fender well and to the battery.
- The Alternator wire goes through the firewall with an available grommet that comes stock on the car. From there it goes under the dash, across the middle, and to the fuse box under dash.
- All wiper motor wires will need to be extened to go through the fender hole and no the firewall grommet.
- Grounds for the headlight and wiper motor are relocated just under the fender mounting area on the frame. I Drilled a 1/4" hole and used a bolt and nut to secure the grounds on left and right side harnesses.
- The eps wires will need to be depinned from their connector accordingly so you can push the harness through the hole in the right front fender welll. The wires run from their control unit, across the fender liner, down through the headlight opening and secured to the frame and then enters the cross member ( you will need a coat hanger to fish the wires through) the wires then come out on the other side of the frame rail through the same size hole. All 5 wires will need to be extened. the steering torque sensor and the power wires for the motor it self.
- i deleted the cruise control in its entirity. i do not use this and this is up to your discretion.
- The boost solenoid wiring is routed into the vtec harness and through the coil pack harness , out the back and follows the main engine loom into the engine cabin where it plugs into the aem ems.
- The Boost Gauge reference line goes from the vacuum block on the firewall, through another hole in the firewall and under the dash to the gauge.
- The wideband harness will be routed from the top of the sensor on the downpipe, across the back of the engine bay and under the main loom into the cabin.
- The battery is a Deka ETX-14 with 200cca. this is the same as the braille lightweight battery.
im sure there is some im forgetting... any more ?'s feel free to ask.
Well i decided that i would like to tuck the engine bay on the s2.
it all started when installing my turbo setup and i coulnt stand the way the fusebox looked ghettorigged sideways, pardon my french.
i then decided that i would relocate the fuse box underdash. I went ahead and got that completed in all honesty it wasent that big of a hassle..
so it went from this:
battery location then
and so far to this:
Brake master cylinder with -3 fittings.
Battery and eps unit
The main reason to make this thread is for technical reference because ive searched on this site and have found pretty much nothing regarding wire tuck Q&A
- Brake Setup
- Stainless braided -3an lines to proportioning valve and t block fittings located under car/subframe. all lines to wheel wells will be hidden.
- Fuse box was reposistioned under the dash,. about 6 wires will have to be cut and extended to reach.
- The heater hoses/tubes have been removed. this is your personal preference, i will not be driving the car in the colder months so its an eye sore and i took it out. I looped the inlet/outlet together on the right side of the engine with the same line that goes to the inlet tube. i cut it to length and used the same clamps.
- The a/c lines will be custom made, i am a must with ac. the stock lines are hidious and will be running an lines as well with conversion fittings welded onto the stock hard lines to and from the evaporator core.
- The abs was removed. I am running stainless braided line with 10 x 1.00mm adapters in the master cylinder and brake line bulkhead fittings in the fneder well as well as on the prop valve
- the clutch master cylinder line i am running the same line/setup
- here in WV we do not have emission so all the air pump wiring relays pump itself is all gone. The small underhood fuse box was reposistioned in the fender well utilizing its stock mounting tabs. the positive feed from the battery to the box was relocated under the wiper cowl as well as the EPS unit power supply line. The starter wire was sleeved and ran through a small hole to the right of the clutch master cylinder.
- the alternator wire was fed through the hole where the cruise control actuator cable used to run through. the wire was cut and extended through the dash and under the climate unit to the fuse box.
- the boost signal tubing was ran through an available grommet to the boost gauge it self.
- the eps motor power wires and torque sesnor wires were all sleeved and ran through the crossmember support in the front of the engine bay.
- the fan wires have been extended and sleeved and tucked away under the radiator support etc.
i will upload with more pictures and better quality ones at that as time goes on. i am now in the process of ordering brake lines and fender washers and setting up some things to be powdercoated.
if any of you have seen my build thread in the FI forum you know i havent been around latey, and yes the turbo side setup is off the car. i am selling the manifold downpipe and dumptube for another setup.
- Earls Stainless Steel Braided -3an Line
- There are many different lengths you can obtain from summitracing.com.
- Brake Master Cylinder/Clutch Master Cylinder/ Bulkheads
- The stock threads on these components are 10x1.0mm. The adapters are from Earls the fittings are male-male adapters -3an to 10x1.0mm.
- Fitting List
- 2 -3an T's
- 8 -3an to 10x1.0mm adapters ( bulkheads,cmc,bmc,prop valve)
- 7 Brake lines various lengths. mostly 36" 10" 26" and one very long one for the right front brake
- Remote battery terminals
- Can be found on summitracing for around 18$ they utilize a 1.25" hole.
- A/C Delete
- The ac lines have been removed for now until the time come where i get some custom ones made. The A/C compressor will be removed and the belt replaced with P/N 6PK1145. This is a shorter belt and allows you to delete the ac compressor
- Coolant lines
- They have been removed from the firewall. You can cut one of the coolant hoses down to just loop the 2 outlets to each other. you also can use the same clamp.
- Locations
- Underhood Fuse Box is now under the dash. There are about 6 wire you have to extend in order to push the harness back through the firewall grommet.
- The Battery is located in the cubby near where some people like to mount the underhood fuse box.
- The EPS unit is also located in that cubby as well in the right front fender.
- The secondary fuse box is located in the left front fender and from there the starter wire goes through a hole in between the firewall and the fender spot welds.
- The Power feed for the starter (before the fuse) comes under the wiper cowl, through another hole in the right front fender well and to the battery.
- The Alternator wire goes through the firewall with an available grommet that comes stock on the car. From there it goes under the dash, across the middle, and to the fuse box under dash.
- All wiper motor wires will need to be extened to go through the fender hole and no the firewall grommet.
- Grounds for the headlight and wiper motor are relocated just under the fender mounting area on the frame. I Drilled a 1/4" hole and used a bolt and nut to secure the grounds on left and right side harnesses.
- The eps wires will need to be depinned from their connector accordingly so you can push the harness through the hole in the right front fender welll. The wires run from their control unit, across the fender liner, down through the headlight opening and secured to the frame and then enters the cross member ( you will need a coat hanger to fish the wires through) the wires then come out on the other side of the frame rail through the same size hole. All 5 wires will need to be extened. the steering torque sensor and the power wires for the motor it self.
- i deleted the cruise control in its entirity. i do not use this and this is up to your discretion.
- The boost solenoid wiring is routed into the vtec harness and through the coil pack harness , out the back and follows the main engine loom into the engine cabin where it plugs into the aem ems.
- The Boost Gauge reference line goes from the vacuum block on the firewall, through another hole in the firewall and under the dash to the gauge.
- The wideband harness will be routed from the top of the sensor on the downpipe, across the back of the engine bay and under the main loom into the cabin.
- The battery is a Deka ETX-14 with 200cca. this is the same as the braille lightweight battery.
im sure there is some im forgetting... any more ?'s feel free to ask.
Well i decided that i would like to tuck the engine bay on the s2.
it all started when installing my turbo setup and i coulnt stand the way the fusebox looked ghettorigged sideways, pardon my french.
i then decided that i would relocate the fuse box underdash. I went ahead and got that completed in all honesty it wasent that big of a hassle..
so it went from this:
battery location then
and so far to this:
Brake master cylinder with -3 fittings.
Battery and eps unit
The main reason to make this thread is for technical reference because ive searched on this site and have found pretty much nothing regarding wire tuck Q&A
- Brake Setup
- Stainless braided -3an lines to proportioning valve and t block fittings located under car/subframe. all lines to wheel wells will be hidden.
- Fuse box was reposistioned under the dash,. about 6 wires will have to be cut and extended to reach.
- The heater hoses/tubes have been removed. this is your personal preference, i will not be driving the car in the colder months so its an eye sore and i took it out. I looped the inlet/outlet together on the right side of the engine with the same line that goes to the inlet tube. i cut it to length and used the same clamps.
- The a/c lines will be custom made, i am a must with ac. the stock lines are hidious and will be running an lines as well with conversion fittings welded onto the stock hard lines to and from the evaporator core.
- The abs was removed. I am running stainless braided line with 10 x 1.00mm adapters in the master cylinder and brake line bulkhead fittings in the fneder well as well as on the prop valve
- the clutch master cylinder line i am running the same line/setup
- here in WV we do not have emission so all the air pump wiring relays pump itself is all gone. The small underhood fuse box was reposistioned in the fender well utilizing its stock mounting tabs. the positive feed from the battery to the box was relocated under the wiper cowl as well as the EPS unit power supply line. The starter wire was sleeved and ran through a small hole to the right of the clutch master cylinder.
- the alternator wire was fed through the hole where the cruise control actuator cable used to run through. the wire was cut and extended through the dash and under the climate unit to the fuse box.
- the boost signal tubing was ran through an available grommet to the boost gauge it self.
- the eps motor power wires and torque sesnor wires were all sleeved and ran through the crossmember support in the front of the engine bay.
- the fan wires have been extended and sleeved and tucked away under the radiator support etc.
i will upload with more pictures and better quality ones at that as time goes on. i am now in the process of ordering brake lines and fender washers and setting up some things to be powdercoated.
if any of you have seen my build thread in the FI forum you know i havent been around latey, and yes the turbo side setup is off the car. i am selling the manifold downpipe and dumptube for another setup.
09-26-2009, 03:35 PM
#3
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Re: 03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
Fender Washers and redone radiator stay
Height of fender washer
you can use them anywhere a normal 10mm bolt would be
Fenders on and still debating to do my injector harness or not
I did not order enough bolts because i did not realize the hood latch bolts and some others like the hood hinge 10mm were visable as well
i ordered another 20 more to make sure id have enough for future usings.
the new arp exhaust manifold studs will be here monday as well and oh guess what,
i just so happen to be on vaca all next week. time to get rollin
Height of fender washer
you can use them anywhere a normal 10mm bolt would be
Fenders on and still debating to do my injector harness or not
I did not order enough bolts because i did not realize the hood latch bolts and some others like the hood hinge 10mm were visable as well
i ordered another 20 more to make sure id have enough for future usings.
the new arp exhaust manifold studs will be here monday as well and oh guess what,
i just so happen to be on vaca all next week. time to get rollin
09-26-2009, 03:35 PM
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Re: 03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
Valve Cover Bolts
Hood Latch as well
just a quick picture of the clutch and brake lines of the MC's
on another good note: the new manifold and downpipe will be shipped out on monday and will be at this house within the next week..
:eek: finally might look more like a turbo setup
Engine Bay w/ Terminals
Terminal Location
Vacuum Bleeding the brakes
Backside of terminals
After all this i also managed to Install a nice set of Alpine Type-S Speakers in the car compliments of my friend tim. He just gave them to me as a gift. The stock speaker mount will need to be removed from the door panel and the backside will need to be cut off to make room for the extra depth of the speakers. They will not hit the window. lol
Hood Latch as well
just a quick picture of the clutch and brake lines of the MC's
on another good note: the new manifold and downpipe will be shipped out on monday and will be at this house within the next week..
:eek: finally might look more like a turbo setupEngine Bay w/ Terminals
Terminal Location
Vacuum Bleeding the brakes
Backside of terminals
After all this i also managed to Install a nice set of Alpine Type-S Speakers in the car compliments of my friend tim. He just gave them to me as a gift. The stock speaker mount will need to be removed from the door panel and the backside will need to be cut off to make room for the extra depth of the speakers. They will not hit the window. lol
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09-27-2009, 06:07 PM
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Re: 03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
I am using an olympus e500. I've had it for about 2 years now. I guess u haven't seen my other pics from my other threads
What are u doing with ur car now?
Thanks for all of the replies guys.
09-27-2009, 07:10 PM
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Re: 03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
Thanks!
That is true, especially the right side of the engine bay. but do remember its missing the manifold and turbo and downpipe with wastegate so it will look better next week.
thanks..
additional plans in the future is weld all 98 holes sand and paint...but thats not in the near future i dont think..
the a/c lines are gone yes because i have future plans for custom ones. i dont want to not have ac in this car unlike my other integras were.. heat im not too worried about..
i am removing the ac compressor this week and running a smaller belt as well for now..
That is true, especially the right side of the engine bay. but do remember its missing the manifold and turbo and downpipe with wastegate so it will look better next week.
thanks..
additional plans in the future is weld all 98 holes sand and paint...but thats not in the near future i dont think..
the a/c lines are gone yes because i have future plans for custom ones. i dont want to not have ac in this car unlike my other integras were.. heat im not too worried about..
i am removing the ac compressor this week and running a smaller belt as well for now..
09-28-2009, 03:40 PM
#19
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Re: 03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
My car is great. It's just about all together, minus a few little things, and is now an Outlaw car. I've laid pretty low for obvious reasons. Next year it will be hitting the track HARD.
09-28-2009, 05:15 PM
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Re: 03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
i checked the post and was like..tepid1? wtf? alive??
09-29-2009, 08:00 AM
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Re: 03' s2000 Tuck//ABS Delete
Thanks! I really wanna get those holes welded and some plates covering up the big holes on the firewall! Much cleaner imo.. but for now im content.. gotta get this ac compressor off today after i run around town tracking bitties.
no doubt son.. i shouldve had that **** second day air'd from CO just so i could have it and put it on and stare at it and be all w00tin' then realize, oh wait, it still doesnt run..kicks self in ***.
no doubt son.. i shouldve had that **** second day air'd from CO just so i could have it and put it on and stare at it and be all w00tin' then realize, oh wait, it still doesnt run..kicks self in ***.
