SpeedOFsmell

I currently have a turbo b20 non vtec @5psi ~240whp in my 1990 Si. Ive had the car about a year which is almost a record for me. Ive already gotten bored with it, considered selling it, and come back around to loving it. Im planning to yank the motor, repaint the car and bay, and build me a nasty n/a engine with the end goal being to keep the bay looking cleaner and simpler without losing horsepower.

So, b20 vtec is cake to grab 230 or so whp with but Im scared of the reliability of the thing. Im considering a stock sleeve b20/b16 head build around 12:1, or buying a gsr and sending the head off to get ported and stuffing 12:1 pistons and rods in the block, and even considering building an LS block b16 head engine pieced together from craigs list.

What would you do? Is low-mid 200's whp much harder to do with a 1.8 liter than the torquey 2.0? If i build a non vtec 1.8 block, will i need to add oil squirters and crank girdle etc? Lets hear some suggestions. I dont want to dump more than a few grand on this. Considered CSS for my b20 block too.

ChrisCoupe1

Well the options are endless with no budget listed.....any answer anyone gives you can be the right one until it comes to putting out the cash for it.
I dont know the specifics of your build as it sits but imo you will be loosing power going to a all NA build but you do gain some ease in maintenance and reliability to a point.
If 230 whp on a B20 is your goal then Id say going with a well built Vtec head thats ported/polished flow tested with a set of over sized valves, aggressive stage 2 or even stage 3 cams with a good Intake Manifold and a nice header will get you there on a decent set of 12:1 Pistons on pump gas with a solid dyno Tune but for all that you could be anywhere from $2200-$4000+ depending on what setup you decide to end up with. But the built VTEC head is where you are going to arguably make the most amount of power

whitesihatch

You don't "have" to add the oil squirters if you build an ls block. Its all personal preference really.

Imo if you are going to change the rods and pistons anyway, just grab a b20 block. More displacement. Css the block for peace of mind. Depending on what fuel is readily available to you should be the factor of compression. Build the head, supporting induction and exhaust etc

Just make sure you have a close ratio transmission and decent lsd so you can stay in peak power.

SpeedOFsmell

I stated i dont want to go over a few grand, lets call it 3500. I intend for a good half of that to be invested in a worked over cnc b16 head. Probably over 2k with cams. I already have a b20 block which is another plus for me, and the torque is just irreplaceable to me.

I have a y1 b16 transmission, which will be getting rebuilt with carbon synchros and a synchrotech lsd.

I guess what it boils down to has to be if I trust the css jobs that are so popular lately... surely they can handle a n/a load...

GIZZ - EXV

Personally, if you are already turbo I would not go back to NA. If you have access to a b16a head, hopefully you have the whole block. I'd install a complete stock b16a longblock and turn up the boost. You will save some money, you will be faster than whatever B series you decide to build NA, when you push the limits of NA there goes the longevity anyways.

As far as crank girdle, overrated. Oil squirters, I had to remove out or mine, do not miss them. These are the hype things people think they need but do not, I guarantee close to zero of the built NA B series run oil squirters. Thats just my 2c.

ChrisCoupe1

hah well start counting your pennies now cause it aint cheap to build lol. As for the CSS job I would say its worth it if your bores are already off and could use a over bore to correct because getting a CSS installed causes warping to the bore to begin with. But if they are fine then no real reason to spend the extra $350-450 to ship ur block get it installed then have it shipped back IMO since your already going to drop a good chunk of change into the head and it could get tight on your budget and a truly good tune will take care of any issues you could see with longevity for the sleeves.

As far as a CNC head porting job I've heard nothing but good things about the end results but just how much is that going to run you vs traditional porting by hand?
Reason I ask is a good full VTEC PR3 or P72 head usually runs $275-600 depending on condition & location. Then New springs usually run $220-300, Retainers $75-120, LMA's $98, Valve seals $25, Valves $180-350, Cams, $550-800, Cam Gears $120-200. Now I'm not saying you will need all that stuff but that all there is already $1250-1900 in parts on top of your Head and head work. And lets be honest we all want the best quality parts are $$ can afford us. If you can get away with say just new springs, Cams, Cam gears then something to pass for Headers and a Intake Manifold you should be able to get away with $3500 total for a running vehicle. also have you considered what your going to do for a wiring harness?
Hah I hope this doesn't come off like im trying to down your expectations, I'm just in the middle of my first B20 Vtec Build and before it will see its first turn over I will have dropped close to $3800 to complete it to a running condition and I started with a Complete running Vtec Head(minus the fuel system) and a built bottom end(B20 Block/ a custom block guard of some type, Forged pistons, Forged I Beam Rods, totally balanced rotating assembly) I got for $1200 But I'm also a OCD about making sure its put together right out the gate.

SpeedOFsmell

Well my car is already running and driving and very customized. I can handle the harness, all i need to do is add a 1 wire vtec signal.

Im going to have my head done by 4 piston racing with oversized valves and upgraded springs. It will probably run me near 2000 dollars. But they say in a stock internal gsr they see around 220whp with skunk2 pro3 cams. My rods and pistons are already selected and priced and are 900 plus 100 for bearings, 130 for studs, 70 for headgasket. Misc expenses put me at my budget. I just need to decide what block to put it all in either my b20 or buy a craigslist ls block and punch/deck it.



Of course once i buy cams im at 4000 bucks. Maybe i can slip that one past the wife or sell some parts to grab them.

whitesihatch

220 whp stock gsr w/ pro 3 lmfao.

Anyways, what make you think you need over sized valves? If your porting is spot on with your cams no need for it. Why worry about v2v clearence?

Btw 4piston cuts the valve guides, I'd recommend that than over size valves anyday.

93egSLEEPER

READ

https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...hread-1583606/

98vtec

no wonder you are bored. 5psi and only ~240whp (i am guessing this means the car has never been dyno tuned) is childs play. turn the boost up and stop being a *****. Why go backwards when you already have the parts to go faster?

93egSLEEPER

LOL ouchie

OP what size turbo? a 57 trim on 12psi will put you in the 300whp area at least and will scream. Put a VTEC head on it and it only gets better (you will want to upgrade rod bolts though) I had a stock LSV on a 1 bar spring and .54 trim pushing out 375whp and 250ishTQ and it was a blast to drive daily with a LSD tranny. Before that I had it on a 10psi spring and was making right at 300whp through a WS2 exhaust (restrictive). If I had the turbo parts already there is no way I would scrap it for a GSR build. I did that once (after blowing my 3rd motor) cause I was pissed and kick myself every day.