luispizarro25

Hey guys so i was just checking here and just saw that other thread about building a turbo b16...
Well this one is regarding a B series as well but i want to go NA.
I know that when you build a motor you should aim to some hp goal, instead of just buying random parts not knowing where you going to end up at. My goal for this build is to have 200+ to the wheels. Prbly 220.

I just got a B18C (GSR) from JDMSource this summer and so far it has been nothing but good times. No hardcore driving for this little one. Except for some autoX once in a while. I was planing to build the head to gain some power but after doing some researching and talking to my roommate (a mechanic at Acura) we concluded that the power is hidden behind displacement. At least in my case which is NA. Therefore I starter reading about NA builds and saw that ppl start building the block.

This is how i want to start this project which with my low budget might take a while but since winter is oming, time isnt the issue, just money and good advice. Let me first say what i think i wanna do. I want to bore out the block to 85 mm - 1979 cc or 86 mm - 2026 cc. I havent decided this yet. Once this is done ill need to sleeve it and im thinking of Golden Eagle sleeve. Then high compression pistons and rods. I been hearing that the OEM crank is good enough so that wont get replaced. Also some new ARP head studs will be necessary.

K so im gonna pause it here as i dont wanna write a whole book about this. So far this is what i want for the block. Im not sure what numbers you can get out of this at all but its the start. Then hea work will get done as well but thats a different story.

Now my questions:
1) Am i on the right track?
2) Is this economically achivable? How much am i looking at so far?
3) Did i mention parts that i dont really need like forged rods?
4) What kinda numbers could i be looking at with this done and stock head?

Any comments would be appreciated. thanks

Top Ramen

There are LOTS of dynos posted with build information. Just look at the ones that are close to the power levels you want and see how they were built. You should start with the sticky at the top of this forum.

WheaMyRyceGo

Send your block to ERL performance. Theyll take care of it for you.

luispizarro25

where are they and whts the cost to get this done? ill prefer somewhere in canada

luispizarro25

upupup

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

what are your goals?

luispizarro25

i want a fast daily driver that can hold up on the streets...
This wont be a drag car but more like an autoX and road race car. Im planing to go to Calgary's road course next year and have some fun. I dont wanna put it out there wrong but in some words i want it to be a mild setup. Im a foreing student in canada and cars is my hobby so budget is tight but i know is possible. I can do most of the work on my own so parts is the big deal.

Wheel power im wanting to put down some 220-230... or just 200+...
I was looking into bottom end work but at the end the head will have to be done sometime. so i might start with the head and get some cams, valve train (valves, retainers, springs) and cam gears. Currently i have stock header which i want to upgrade to the SMSP replica or the Hytech replica that you can get here in HT - KiddRACING Narrow B Series Header (SMSP replica) (http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2434887) or Hytech replica (http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2052395). In regards to the intake part im waiting to get a BloX IM with bigger TB, boh matched to same size (not sure how to make my mind about the size for these two). Once i get that im looking into buying the Comptech IceBox full air intake system. I hav heard good things from it. Once this is all bought and put in i gotta get a S300 to fully squeez the power and tune it properly. I was thinking of porting the head but i dont know how expensive that can get since i cant really do that myself.

So what do you think about this approach. In the mean time. ill have to

JDMThoughts

You can make 200whp no problem without having to sleeve or upsize your displacement. If your gonna save and spend your money right, buy a real header and not a replica, you can find real ones for not too much more then new replicas. Oversized ITR pistons would work wonders and keep your cost down paired with a thinner headgasket. Rod bolts are nice and that's really all you need for the bottom end. Cams are a little more tricky, you like autox so your gonna wanna cam that still makes good midrange, for that I would go with the Endyn Bumpstixx or Skunk2 Pro 1, both great cams that help beefen up your mid range. Head porting depending on who does it and to what degree they do it to can cost like 800 to 2000. Intake manifold is a real problem on these cars, Skunk2 Pro series is nice, easy to find used but seem to fall off around 8500rpms, the performer x is a little bit better than that one in my eyes holds power a little longer. economically this is never the easiest way to make power. Some sort of 2.5" exhaust is necessary. This is gonna cost your quite a bit, a couple grand realistically.

luispizarro25

Yeah i believe in spending money right. Lots of search and questioning around needs to be done. I cant say im not in a tight budget and i wont lie.
- in regards to the headers i think that buying original is the best. But really is not like you get 10 more HP from a original over replica. prbly 5 max. i rather spend money on other parts that are more valueable and in which quality helps in the engine performance such as internals. if you can give me an example of original good headers pls do so
-In regards to the thinner head gasket whats a good option?
- the cams im still looking around but i was thinking in skunk2 stage 2
- Im gettin gskunk2 first gen IM for 12 which is good since i live in the middle of nowhere
- exhaust i already have one. Full cat back
- and and what did you mean by Oversized ITR pistons? I have a friend who is selling the ITR pistons and rods. Would they fit GSR?

cubanrider

First off, dont waste money and time sleevin your motor, you dont need to do it and anyone that tells you its a must is cracked out. Sounds like you are on the right track. I currently have a 1990 da with a b16a2 pushing 230 whp and 215 torque, and that na. I invested about 8k all together. Number one thing you will wanna do is make sure you have strong rods ( i would recommend eagle rods) and a strong valve ( ferrera makes a good one, or BC). Bump your compression up with some JE 12.5:1 pistons and get some bad *** cams, buddy Club Spec V is what im running, but the Spec IV is about a hundred bucks cheaper and is virtually the same. Run standard bore, dont waste time buying oversized pistons, if the block is honed to much you will have piston side to side play and that will f your ish up bro. Also, stay away from buying cheap parts. If your gonna build an NA, do it right the first time and save yourself having to go in and tweak things.Good luck

cubanrider

In regards to headers, i went with Blox Tri-Y headers, or Tri- T somethin like that. Cost me about 500 bucks new and the size of the header does make a difference. Absolutely stay away from DC headers, they are like the mexican brand for headers and they might look cool, but they will limit your gaines. Also, unless you exhaust is 2.5 you are gonna wanna upgrade, gotta get that crap outta your car faster and a 2.5 pipe will allow you to hit 200 whp no problem

00Red_SiR

You're saying that you have a B16a pushing 230 whp and 215 Tq???? NA??????

What are your build specs and post up a dyno chart.... This should be interesting...lol

Combustion Contraption

K7-1Ktrevor

215tq.... cough cough *bullsh!t* cough

do a b20 vtec if you want good tq. don't do anything super wild on the compression if you want it to be streetable. and a big thing about making power is make sure all your parts work well together. also a good tune makes all the world of difference. have fun and dont get over your head. plan a budget and put at least 1/3 of cash aside on top of what you think every things gonna cost cause stuff will nickel and dime you to death. good luck man! also get a lsd!!!

luispizarro25

hey thanks guys... i like when ppl help some kinda newbie like me... lol
I really wanna pull this off and for what it looks ill be happy with 200whp....
i have school to pay for and i want this to work perfectly
I know you cant really cheap out if your trying to do something right, but if you look good enough around you can get some good deals, and dont worry im smart enough to know that mass produced DC headers look like **** and perform like **** as well...
so far ive heard good info here now i gotta get out there and start buying some parts. but first ill make a plan and see how much i can spend and how much this will cost... if you got anymore good suggestion let me know.. thanks

DDTECH

There's no b series that makes that torque bro..

.Manny.

iTrader: (1)

HAHAHAHAAHAHA. I laughed, sneezed and farted all at the same time! That B16 is a beast, making a whole 50 lbs more torque than my b20.

Don't believe this clown at all.

BigBlock22

wow .... just when you think you heard everything, something else amazing comes along. never thought i'd see a b16 pulling torque numbers similar to a k24 high end build. maybe he'll comeback and say he meant 115ft/lbs.

BigBlock22

im sure the Hispanic user's wont appreciate his mexican header comment either

Top Ramen

All ten of my supermodel girlfriends are calling 'bullsh1t' on that torque number!

jdm_sir2

haha lol i just saw this post damn, i guess i must go to this guy for some advice shoot my B20/VTEC is pretty built and i barely make 152ft/lbs of torque....what crack pipe is this fool smoking...

pls52202

i have everything to make you 215+ hp call me 828-638-8630 bc stage 2 head package port and polished. 30' back cut valves. and 84.5mm wisco pistons with prop racing rods. i bough everything new and have all receipt. going turbo. with rlz head. . this will come with ecu tuned on crome @ RLZ ENGINERING A whole lot of dyno tuning and 440 rc injector. i will give you the degree specs. and more. i promise you over 200+ horse and dyno sheet to prove it. and if you dont beleive me fill free to call the RLZ. $2000 firm.
you get head port polished
rc 440
rlz tuned ecu
brian crower stage 2 cams with valve springs and retainer.
30' back cut valves.
wisco 84.5 pistons
prop racing rods
$2000 firm
with out the rods
$1700 firm
cause i can use it on my turbo build
with out rod and head
$1300 firm