Dutch_Mofo

I'm planning on dropping a B18C4 in my EG5 next year. From what I've found, the B18C4 and C1 are pretty much the same, for all US people on here When I have the engine, I want to tune it. But budget style. By that I DO NOT mean buying the CHEAPEST parts available, but choosing my mods wisely to get the most hp-per-buck (or euro for that matter )

I chose the B18C4 for a very simple reason: I can get them VERY cheap. Where a C6 will cost me something around 2500-3000 euro, A C4 will cost me somewhere between 600 and 1000 euros.

What I want to do:
- Get my revlimit up safely to at least 9k rpm. When not turbo'd I love to rev (and yes, I know that it depends on the engine and the setup wether it is usefull to rev that high)
- Approach 200hp or go past that

My plans so far:
- header/decat/exhaust, the usual
- intake manifold, probably gonna be an OBX Type-R replica/imitation
- Airbox
- Stage 2/3 cams with aftermarket retainers and springs
- ECU tuning

From what I found, B16 and Type R B18 head lowers compression plus the B18 TR head is pretty expensive, which makes it a not-optimal option for tuning.

Does anyone know about the cams, does every B18C cam fit any other B18C? I'm wondering since the head is different from the Type R, only to which extent I don't know.

And what internals might be interesting to raise compression for a relatively low price? For example, I found these pistons which seem to raise compression considerably. But is it worth the trouble and costs to use those? Any other internals I can use for raising the compression, like a thinner headgasket or flat valves? I read several times that every .1 raise in compression will yield about 1hp. But if I use agressive cams, I believe my dynamic compression decreases and I have to compensate that with higher static compression. Is that right?

Any other input and considerations about tuning a B18C4 is appreciated since there isn't much to find about it.


Modified by Dutch_Mofo at 3:00 AM 10/24/2008

Dutch_Mofo

Nobody?

ABK

search, look at people setups and copy.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Those two heads don't really "lower" compression, its just that the GS-R head has a slightly smaller quench areas that raise compression on other applications. the cc volume is 41.6 as opposed to 42.7cc. The drawback is the intake manifold design and the fact that it has a dual intake design, that is a bit inefficient. So I wouldn't use that logic to design which is the "better head".

Yes, B-series cams are interchangable, even the aftermarket ones, but you need to start investigating the cams to do what it is that you're looking for. Some cams focus on midrange power, others for top end power. There is no one cam that does everything. Start checking outside of H-T for all the cams and their profiles available. Don't jump to generalizations.

Dutch_Mofo

I already searched but I'm not sure yet of some things, thats why I'm asking

@TheShodan: yeah I already decided that the intake has to go for a normal single runner one. The reason I think the GSR head is the best option for me is the simple fact that a Type R head only will set me back as much as a complete GSR engine. B16 head would be an option but from what I understood even though it's machined (ported etc.) the amount of flow is lower than in a GSR head. Maybe if I can find a cheap Type R head without cams (since I want after market cams) for cheap here on HT, it might be worth the trouble.

I already checked out different cams and I like the Crower Stage 3 so far. They have good mid range and excellent top power according to what I found about it. Idle becomes a little lumpy but I don't mind, as long as it doesn't stall every two minutes And best of all, they aren't that expensive even though they are not a regrind! On Ebay they will cost me about 425 ex shipping. A set of springs and retainers will cost me another 200 bucks. I can pay that as a student

But what can I do with compression? How much power will that yield, if I raise the compression with, for example .5? I know it is impossible to predict exact number, but are we talking 1hp or maybe 5?
I think that in my case

ABK

you need to do more research... crower stage 3 cams will be way too much for a stock compression. Motor won't make **** for power. If you don't want to rip into a bottom end, I personally suggest intake manifold, throttle body, header, exhaust then find a tuner to tune your car. If all that is no problem for you, then you move on. Rip the head off, can try to port it slightly if you think you can do it without messing the head up, but if your hand isn't steady, you don't research before you do stuff and don't take your time don't even think about it. Throw some valve springs in it, and some small cams s2s1, s2s2, bc3+. Mill the head a little and it's good for 190 to 200whp if you are lucky. But if you don't have good supporting mods or a good tune it will run shittier then a stock motor will, trust me on that one.

Dutch_Mofo

Yeah, I found that I can't do it with stock compression. But milling the head and using flat face valves won't raise compression enough for those kind of cams? Was afraid of that...What kind of compression increase are we talking about? Think I'm gonna look into how hard it is to replace pistons and decide wether I find it worth the risk I might [freak] it up as I've never done such things before (and it's my daily).