I have heard that they wear out at like 20,000 miles and are they worth the money.
i think they are worth the extra insurance. just don't bash on the motor everyday. you can rev it higher than your stock retainers (and springs), but having titanium retainers doesn't make your motor invincible.
I know a few people who are quite happy with the OEM aluminum retainers from the automatic B16A's. I think RLZ uses them as well. Apparently they're almost as light as the Ti retainers, but don't wear out nearly as fast.
Grizzly Adams STILL has a beard.
here's a good useful (i think) info- an e-mail a got a while back from omniman Dave.
Here's another way to look at it:
Factory honda retainers are very strong, but nowhere are you going to be able to get a concrete answer as to the rev limit of them. IMO, taking any factory part far beyond the limit intended by the factory takes safety out of the equation anyways. So, yes you could rev to 9500. would it be safe, probably not, would I do it, NO.
If you are looking for performance, and safety, I'm not sure why you don't wait until TI retainers are installed, and you are ensured durability. ( Its kinda like putting in TI retainers with stock valve springs, not quite
Furthermore, how is the rest of your motor built? Is the bottom end stock?
If so, anyone suggesting that you rev to 9500 rpm with out having balanced internals, for any extended period of time, is just asking for problems.
Also, since 9500 is stressful on the motor, you should have it dynoed to see in fact how much power is being made above 9000, and even if it is worth shifting at that point relative to where the rpm of the next gear engagement is.
For example, attached is a sheet on my car, and with all that done, I shift 1st at 9000, 2,3&4 at 8800. The power increase is too minimal after 9000 to risk and my times are better shifting a little sooner. (no balanced
Hopefully this is helpful, we want to make sure your motor lasts, isn't just fast.
oh and here's am another e-mail from omniman. very informative as well.
I have yet to see ANYONE install a performance component on a vehicle, yet use the same driving characteristics as with the original parts. What I mean is, ok, you have heard that TI retainers are prone to more wear/tear than original. So, what you are assuming is that the engines were driven EXACTLY the same with the compared parts installed.... Hmmm, I doubt it.
Again, why do you buy performance parts? To outperform what the factory
has provided to you. So you have some people that kinda drove their car hard with stock retainers, then installed upgraded drive train, drove the crap out of it (that is why you are spending the money, right) then noticed more wear than before. Doesn't seem hard to figure out to me.
Here's the other issue...
Lets say you moderately drive your car, with the stock retainers, occasionally revving to 9000. I'm not sure if you race people on the street (he he) but, if so, everyone has missed a shift once. Missing at 8 or 82, usually brings the rpms to about 9 or so if you catch it quick enough, so you do that At 9, and that brings you to almost 10 if not more. I sure wouldn't want to do that with stock retainers.
Whats cool is, if you did miss a shift, you cams aren't that large that I think the valves would hit ( My car would be toast)
Not to freak you out or something, it just costs a lot to fix problems, if they could be anticipated before hand.
If you really don't drive the car super hard (and don't plan to) keep the stock retainers, personally, I like the (slightly more) secure feeling of having a little stronger retainer.
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