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about two days ago, on the highway driving, as I sped up to about 65mph, and switching to make way to the exit lane, I felt quite a snap, little noise of something snapping off, lost drive completely, engine stop working, tachometer at 0rpm, battery light, then oil light came on.
came to a completely stop, the car wont start, first time I had to tow it too.
just last night we took the engine off, and teared it down
and this is what we found..
now the top end seems to be fine.. I'm now left with two choices, and the decision making comes again, one way is to put together the B16A sitting around, but costly, and due to a 6 month vehicle inspection regulation, and a engine code stamped on the bottom end of my car, putting in the B16A meaning the cost of $100+usd dollar every 6 months of driving, and that cost can go up or down just depends where to go or who is helping me get thru inspection. I'm leaning towards a high compression SOHC using the P29 piston replacement, fix up the D16Y8. In the future we might consider upgrading stage2 cams, springs, retainers as well, but just wondering if its neccessary to swap the rods, or do I have to use forged internals instead? If I might have plans for a stage2 cam? and fuel pump upgrade or no? are there anything else I need to be careful of before I jump into this repair? It is going to be a DD, so I need reliability as well, what compression ratio should I aim at?
i think you should just replace the crankshaft (maybe with a B16B one) and re assemble the engine within specs,replacing obviously all the consumables i.e. piston rings etc... making sure everything is good. i will definitely take the head to a machine shop and as well as the block.
i think you should just replace the crankshaft (maybe with a B16B one) and re assemble the engine within specs,replacing obviously all the consumables i.e. piston rings etc... making sure everything is good. i will definitely take the head to a machine shop and as well as the block.
Hey, thanks for the reply, are the B16B crankshaft usable in a D16Y8?
Engine is a D series. B series crank isn't gonna work.
I'm wondering how the Hell you broke a crankshaft?
Any recent work done to the flywheel or crank pulley?
Engine is a D series. B series crank isn't gonna work.
I'm wondering how the Hell you broke a crankshaft?
Any recent work done to the flywheel or crank pulley?
There was in fact recent work done to the pully, but it as basically just a ac pump pully, and power steering belt.
The shop that've done it, is the same shop the car is towed to right now, now that you've mentioned, how can that break? its something that should have very little problem snapping, especially like that. However, a friend of mine, in a Hatch, also broke his almost ten years ago, but for him, the bolt snapped off, left the treaded part inside the block. Maybe the humid weather?
I wonder if they used an impact to "torque" the bolt or actually used the holding tool to correctly torque the bolt.
I don't mean to point fingers but... I've never seen a stock crank break on a almost stock engine. But there's a first time for everything and coincidences do happen..
Hell, I use my impact to torque the crank bolt back on, I've never had a problem. I don't know if the OP is going to chime back in or not, but it would be interesting to see what work was done before this happened.
What work was done to the pulley? These things reallllllly don't just happen, that timing belt should have snapped before the crank did.
Originally Posted by obie2102
If you just had belts put on it, someone likely way over tightened them and stressed the crank for it to break like that.
Originally Posted by PyroProblem
I wonder if they used an impact to "torque" the bolt or actually used the holding tool to correctly torque the bolt.
I don't mean to point fingers but... I've never seen a stock crank break on a almost stock engine. But there's a first time for everything and coincidences do happen..
Originally Posted by DumpdEJ6
Hell, I use my impact to torque the crank bolt back on, I've never had a problem. I don't know if the OP is going to chime back in or not, but it would be interesting to see what work was done before this happened.
seems like everyone is wondering what work has been done. I'm not exactly a car guy, and dont know the exact terms, but I'd assume that the bolt was put on with impact gun, and the most recent work done on that end was the power steering belt.
If your worried about the inspection issue; building a fairly mild D16 can easily make the power and more TQ than the B16A anyway so you might as well go that route if all you want is a fun daily driver. Most stock B16s make around ~150whp and ~110tq. With a basic D16-stock Z6 or Y8 crank, P29 pistons, stock rods, a decent cam such as the Zex/Comp 59300 or (IMO the better) 59500, a set of valvesprings and something to tune with whether it be Crome, Neptune, Hondata etc. you will make 155-160whp and 115-120wtq on 93 pump gas. This is also figuring ofcourse the basic bolt-ons as well such as a decent header, 2.25 or larger exhaust and a decent intake. Stock fuel system is fine at this level if everything is healthy and clean. (Good condition fuel pump, clean injectors, clean filter etc)
Tuning and engine assembly are the key things here, as with any aftermarket cam/high comp piston build P2V clearance is crucial so you want someone familiar with the Honda engine family putting it together, and also someone competent and knowledgable of Hondas doing the tune as well. All in all though it is a very basic build setup that has been used time and time again in various types of racing. My own D series all motor build back in the day was a D16z6-stock crank and rods, .5mm over P29 pistons, OEM bearings throughout and entire rotating assembly with flywheel was balanced. DIY port/casting cleanup on a Z6 head with Comp 59500 cam, Ferrea valvesprings/retainers, ported OEM intake manifold and 64mm TB, 3" intake arm with V stack, Bisi replica header, Omni power 2.5 test pipe, Magnaflow 2.5" catback, 95 Si tranny with Fidanza flywheel and Exedy stage 1- Tuned on Hondata it made 161/119 on pump gas. Was a very reliable car and in my 95 EX coupe with some fairly minor weight reduction went mid 14's consistently and would pull on every stock internal B16a
I ever encountered. I think you would be pleased with the he setup. Also a plus, the overall cost of these now older outdated parts are very low, so you can build the exact setup I mentioned for like a grand, maybe 1500 if you have to pay to have the work performed for you, but still it's a good little setup for the money and will still have stock Honda reliability and fuel mileage.
Hey guys, so my car is back up running
the engine is completely rebuild, with a great condition oem crankshaft, 76mm ZC piston, oem rods, ported and polished, milled head, polished intake manifold, block guard, and upgraded walbro fuel pump. (I'm still in a learning process, so maybe I mis typed a few things, these are the things I know was done according to the shop)
right now I'm still driving around with ease, and will soon hook it up with a fuel computer to get it tuned.
engine knocks at low rpm with 95 octane gas here in tw, I'm using 98 octane, which might end up just being 94 from the states.
I'm still thinking on the cams, will probably put them in later on when I can get my hands on a much reliable fuel computer, as currently I'm going to run with E-manage
Did u downshift or like to into 2nd gear at 110mph or sumthing?
hmm, no, why would i do that haha, I was actually just coasting in 5th gear, after passing a car, and no, I dont do frequent redlines, I do go on spirit drive tho, like maybe once or twice a month? the mechanic that did the rebuild was saying maybe the last owner took the car to someone who uses air tools impact gun on the crankshaft bolt?
What compression is that and why the hell is it knocking? I've also used impact on the crankshaft bolt and never had a problem, most likely the crank had a cast imperfection.
the problem probably lied in the crank pulley itself. I assume it was out of balance or failing/separating and the extended time in high rpms caused enough destruction vibration to damage the crank.
Id look at the old crank damper really closely.
What compression is that and why the hell is it knocking? I've also used impact on the crankshaft bolt and never had a problem, most likely the crank had a cast imperfection.
compression is around 12:1. the slightest knock is happening only when I am at super low rpm, such as clutch engaging.
Originally Posted by clean rice
TF you doing 110 on the freeway for?
hmm, sorry, I meant km. so its actually like 65mph?
Originally Posted by PyroProblem
the problem probably lied in the crank pulley itself. I assume it was out of balance or failing/separating and the extended time in high rpms caused enough destruction vibration to damage the crank.
Id look at the old crank damper really closely.
hmm, yeah, we figure it was probably damaged previously. Mind you I did just replace all my engine mount with hardrace parts, so maybe the increased vibration did it.
05-16-2016, 04:16 PM
so my crankshaft snapped on the highway
