liquidzorch

Hello. I have just rebuilt the engine on my 93 civic lx. It has a D15b7 engine. I had to replace the engine block. I have already got oil pressure buit up in the sistem, I have driven it about 50 miles. The problem now is that in the morning I turn on the car and the oil warning light takes about 10 seconds to turn off. If I turn it off and on again it turns off right away, if I turn it off for about an hour it takes about 2-4 seconds for oil light to turn off. What could it be? I already changed the oil pump and it does the same thing. I am thinking oil is leaking out of crankshaft and it has to replace that oil when turning on. But I dont want to take of oil pan without knowing what to check for or how to check it. Any advice? What could be causing this problem? The only thing that this block has different than my old block is that it is missing a bolt by the oil filter that seems to be a plug, but there is no oil leaking from it so I guess that has nothing to do. Any help? Thanks in advance

Former User

Measure the oil pressure.

liquidzorch

Thank you for your reply. After about 10 seconds the pressure does build up and is within specs, but in the morning at first start the pressure is low until about 10 seconds then the pressure is fine.

Former User

Given the importance of good oil pressure for engine health, it would be wise to measure the oil pressure to verify that it is fine and that the sender is working properly.

liquidzorch

I really do not have a tachometer to test the oil pressure. Is there anything else I can do? I do have 2 oil senders, one new and one old, and both do the exact same thing. Its like the oil in all the passages leaks out and the pump has to refill everything before gaining pressure.

Hidenplanvew

You can pick up a oill pressure gauge from an autoparts store for cheap you would just need a 1/8 bsp to 1/8 NPT adapter. I get mine from a hose supply shop called Tubes and hoses, Im sure you can order and have one sent to you or I can pick you one up if you pay for it.. Just pm me ... But then you can always keep a eye on oil pressure

strategy400

Did you install an oil control jet between the block and head? Also check that your pan isn't dented.

liquidzorch

yes the oil jet was installed, and the oil pan is just a little dented but on the bottom. it deffinetly couldnt affect height of the oil. I have been using the car all day and it has worked fine, the only problem is the oil. the longer it rests the longer it takes to get oil pressure when starting. But once I get oil pressure the light never comes on again.

4g hatch

the sender throws the light when it sees 5psi or around that or less....just because it goes off doesnt mean the engine is making enough psi to keep it healthy.......you can get a mechanical gauge from advance auto or somewhere for 20 bucks..if you dont wana spend the money you may be spending money to replace a crank or bottom end in a few hundred miles

AllMtrRex

Did you use a OEM Honda oil pump? Did you replace the pickup tube/strainer gasket with a new one?
Part #4 below. Don't be lazy and say you did but didn't. If you didn't replace the gasket with a new one you will have oil pressure problems.

liquidzorch

Yes, i replaced the gasket. every seal, o-ring and gasket was changed. Both pumps were original pumps, and the pump i left on i am 100% sure is working fine. when i replaced the pump i replaced the gasket and oil screen again.

liquidzorch

I left it 24 hours without running and it took 4 seconds for the light to turn off when first starting it today. It seems to be getting better. The other thing that I did not mention is, Since it is a rebuild I was told to use straight sae40 oil. Thats pretty thick, and it is winter, could it be that what is causing the oil to slowly rise? I was told to use sae 40 at leat until 500 miles, then I could change back to 5w-30.

4g hatch

i would think so with the cold weather.....thats awful thick especially if your clearances are tight...ive always used a thin oil with a new motor. like a 5w30 in a cheap dino. nothing synthetic or expensive. i would change that **** out for a thin oil.....and get a gauge. its cheap insurance and you wont have to worry like you are if you can monitor whats going on at all times

rich7777

It's the oil pump. Take it off, strip it, and post pictures up of the internals. I bet they're scored-up.

redyute

iTrader: (2)

I'd change the oil to 5w30 before pulling the pump again.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Definitely. SAE40w is doing you no favors, especially if the weather is cold.

liquidzorch

ok, i will replace the oil. It cant be the pump, like I said the pump has already been changed, i used a pump that i am 100% sure works well, and i get the exact same problem. I am looking to get an oil gauge, I just went to autozone and they said they should have them in next week. Its weird because everyone told me to use sae40 oil for the break-in time.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

What they probably meant was for you to use SAE30 non-detergent for the ring seating cycles, which only takes a couple of hours and maybe 15 miles of driving. If you weren't using non-detergent you were getting the wrong advice anyway, and you should have changed to 5w30 by now.

I'm pretty sure that this is going to fix your issue. If you find that it doesn't, you should be able to borrow a gauge from your local Autozone, Advance Auto, or whatever you have.

rich7777

It's not the oil viscosity. I run 40 weight myself and we have cold winters over here too. I still think it's the pump. Just because you have replaced it doesn't mean it's ok. You may have something else wrong that is causing the oil pump to fail.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

You could be right, but I would still try the oil before going in and replacing an entire pump.

liquidzorch

Ok, I will try the oil. Then if it stays the same I will get the oil gauge and check before I open the oil pan and start looking for a oil seal leak on the inside and take the pump off again. I appreciate all the help.