b1620vtec

hi guys is there any way you can install a pro 3 cam without doing a cam degree the shop where i took it doesn't have a degree wheel and dial need help pls

my set up
b16head b20block stock bore and stroke
ycp pistons
ferrea flat valves std size
ferrea valve lock
skunk2 pro3 cams
skunk2 valve train
head & block shaved to 1.2mm combined
oem b20 head gasket

DDTECH

Have you checked v2v?.. run a Minimal of .030 on a race, .045 on a street setup, adjust from there on dyno, Degreeing is good, but its just a starting point, you dont HAVE to degree anything if you know your clearances.

Drop in settings on those cams are a +1 / +4 or 0/+4 i believe, check according to skunk2's faq.

rico91stang

iTrader: (1)

If a shop does not know how to degree cams, you may not want them "building" your motor. Properly degreed cams will net you power that you feel is missing from your setup. It's the little detail things that separate the power differences in peoples different setups.

98vtec

Degreeing cams only mean the engine is set to the correct centerlines. Which is only a starting point as far as tuning goes.

rico91stang

iTrader: (1)

Agreed but it saves time and money on a build hunting for the missing power the combo is "supposed" to have.

b1620vtec

and one more thing i was just wondering if my skunk cams are legit ill post the pictures later thanks guys!

b1620vtec

hey guys engine was done 3 months ago haven't had time to post

b16 head ported
zspeed camgears
skunk2 valvetrain
ferrea flat valves
s2pro 3 cams
victor x manifold w/ 70mm tb port matched
550cc injectors
255lph fuel pump
hytech megaphone replica
84mm ycp
arp head and rod bolts
balanced rotating assembly
head and block milled 1.4mm combined
oem gasket
and a crappy jdm 4.2 cable transmission

215whp 141tq @9.2k 95oct pumpgas now the problem is when we had it dynoed it was smoking at high rpms builder said it must be one of the cylinders. and its lacking compression to run them big cams. well all said and done I'm planning to drop the ycp and go for 84.5 13.2 wiseco or supertech with eagle rods or skunk. which is better? and is it safe to run that high compression on stock sleeves. its not a daily car i use it like once or twice a week.

d15Beta

with your current set up it should make about 10-12whp more (maybe even 15)

id suspect engine assembly/build quality if it smokes up high in the rpm's bfor anything else..

ycp b20 84mm bore piston has
3.4cc dome (measured volume by me)
29.7mm comp height (this makes the pistons sit below deck a hair over 0.020" )

as is that would give you 11.6:1 with no milling whatsoever on the block and head
thats quite alright even..

and if we add even just 1mm total mill (example 0.020" from head and 0.020" from block)
thats 0.040" = 1mm

that puts u at 13:1 comp already... so i would doubt that isnt enough for Pro3s
thats on the high side for 95oct pump and pro3... but quite a good range though
so going gung ho on max comp might not solve wat ur trying to solve

id look into the block's condition and state, as we see alot of shadetree assemblies floating around and it becomes a money pit , trying to solve problems that were never there

HTH

93egSLEEPER

Man, that must be a LOW reading dyno, or the motor is not built/degreed properly. 215whp on Pro 3's just doesn't sound right for your build. Who did your building/tuning? Those are pro 1 numbers on that motor... at least assuming its not a stingy *** dyno.

Have a dyno graph to share?

d15Beta

true it must and could be a stingy dyno,

like ours, the most we would see on pro3's and 95oct pump (b20vtec) would be
225-235whp but thats below 12.5:1 comp

on 13.5:1 and e85 usually 235-245whp is the norm

so i think something might be up with the OP's motor and it wouldnt be the comp at all

on a sidenote

ive had a b20vtec w/ m24xx ,ycp pistons
ITR IM , toda style 4-2-1 (quite small for 2liter)
11.4:1 comp
do 210whp @ 8k (a/f leaning out to 14.2s)
270cc injectors wasnt cutting it LOL
(unfortunately the new owner hasnt dynoed it again and uses it now)

so it might be a stingy dyno like ours too i agree...

hope the OP figures out something.. the combo is quite decent for sure!

sidenote : OP how's the idle on your motor?

b1620vtec

that was what i had in mind. thinking about the shave done to the block and head I'm not really sure about the measurements though. could it be that the block is no good. or the cylinders are fucked?

b1620vtec

about the dyno I'm from the philippines and there is not a lot of dynos here but I'm pretty sure that autoplus's dyno reads pretty low compared to other dynos in the country and thats a fact but still i was expecting at least to hit 225+ to be honest so I'm kinda disappointed. ill post the dyno sheet this weekend. about the idle it idles fine for pro3 about 1000-1800rpm.

d15Beta

lol i knew it was autoplus...

yeah it reads low but its mainly cuz the dyno is not well ventilated etc
compare to other same brand dyno's (down south) of that place,

we had a b20 as i mentioned ... do 210whp up until 8k only due to lack of fuelling and the 270cc injectors maxxing out (a/f at 8k was 14.2) would have hoped to reach 9500 on that thing... it was/is promising...

could be the block (cylinders) or the whole actual assembly'
cuz as you mentioned its a build done...

makes you wonder who builds a motor without checking all these' which is standard procedure in builds

dont change a thing on that motor though... the set up looks decent its prolly just the actual build..

which kinda sucks cuz... it might need a do over (re rebuild/assemble properly)

98vtec

That idle sounds high. You should be able to dial pro3 to idle like stock

d15Beta

yep... pro3's idle fine 900rpm smooth even with a/c on

but then again.. ive seen the same cams idle all weird and tuner would say
"cams big" LOL

OMG

too many variables to guess

some people make 200whp and others make 250+ on very similar setups

OMG

Did you dyno at Autoplus in the Phillipines?

d15Beta

yeah he mentioned it earlier on the post

OMG

okay, numbers from Autoplus are confusingly low

d15Beta

even on that place's dyno *which is where i like to dyno too

i think that motor set up is quite decent
and i agree there should be atleast 10-15 more in it...

the hard part is , engine assembly
too many things in it that could make or break a build etc
from ring clocking (during assembly) following certain main and rod bearing clearances
running stock bore is always fine, if the builder uses and checks it with a dial bore guage
at the very least, and honed if necessary via a sunnen bore/hone machine
(in the u.s. they have alot more options unlike us)

having it smoke like that and the power figures would be a sign to all these,
(i find it weird that someone would say the block is no bueno and must go with better pistons) cuz if that was the case, then during the initial build phase it would have shown red flags and you would have been notified,

^^^^^ all that, assumes the head isnt totally hogged out too so im assuming the head is fine (as best case scenario)

IMO a re build and re check might and will be cheaper than upgrading to other sorts of pistons etc or intake or cam upgrade,

as i dont think any of those would solve much if the issue is on the critical assembly itself,

as alot of ycp + pro3 b20's out there making decent even on autoplus (225-230whp)

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hope you figure it out OP, and most of all.. get to enjoy the motor soon
as that's what matters