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Old 04-04-2012, 05:29 PM
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Default Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Whats up guys I have a GSR motor in my hatch and it was just rebuilt and its burning oil.

Specs JDM b18c motor (GSR)
Stock rods
Brand new usdm b16 pistons (RS Machine) with new rings .5mm over
New rods bearings
Head has new valves (flat face supertech valves)
New oem valve seals
Other than the valves the head is stock

Machine shop work:
Assembled bottom end
Over sized block and honed walls
Installed crank, rod bearings, pistons

Head work
Valve seats cut
Head resurfaced
Head pressure tested

I did all of the rest of the work on the motor myself.

Stock tune, 91 octane,
5w-30 oil Non Synthetic
30W Non detergent on break in.
Engine has roughly 1500k on it.
New PCV valve

Compression check:
Cylinder 1
225-230
Cylinder 2
225-230
Cylinder 3
235-240
Cylinder 4
240

Since last oil change:
I put roughly 200 miles and oil is a little above the low dot. Am I running the wrong weight oil? or is it an internal problem?
Old 04-05-2012, 11:02 AM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Wow that's alot, 200 miles and ur already a quart low maybe a lil more. B series motors are notorious for burning oil but a typical burn is usually 1 quart for every 800 to 1200 miles average most ppl I know. But u should be on the high end of that scale even if ur in VTEC most of the time.

Maybe check ur plugs for oil, if clean maybe unfortunately it is ur rings, what brand are they? Maybe the machine shop didn't install them right, I assume u did a proper break in of the motor to give ur rings a chance to seat.
Old 04-05-2012, 12:03 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Try using full synthetic cause it's thicker. I too am using 5w30 conventional non synthetic and i'm burning oil. I also think full synthetic will lube the motor better. but dayum my friends and I are only adding .25 of a qrt maybe half a quart most between our oil change's. 5w30 should be fine but i have like roughly 50k on my motor and i'm going to run 10w30 Mobil 1 Full synthetic in a couple of weeks when i upgrade my parts.

your compression numbers are good I don't think it can be that. Maybe your valve seals? no oil leaks from the cam seals or anything right?
Old 04-05-2012, 12:08 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by pArAdOxsqUArE
Try using full synthetic cause it's thicker.

What?? ..



Valve seals..?
Leak down test?

Compression test only tells 1 story when they are 3..
Old 04-05-2012, 12:24 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

What does a compression test tell you VS the leakdown test, as to oil consumption?
Old 04-05-2012, 12:35 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by pr0honda
What does a compression test tell you VS the leakdown test, as to oil consumption?
You asking me, or you asking ol boy? I'll assume you're asking me. A leakdown test, would test the oil control rings as well, along with the lower one. If you are getting blow by or getting leakdown past the rings that would surely show a sign of possibly burning oil or oil getting "consumed". I honestly think this is a basic thing that should always be included..

The great thing about a leakdown is that it deals with how well the cylinder is sealing and nothing else. The readings are not affected by carbon deposits, cam timing, or even engine cranking speed.

"burning oil", most vtec engines will use alittle oil, infact all motors do. But with as much as he's using.. It isn't a leak, its actually getting consumed. I would either assume valve stem seals or worn guides and / or piston rings not sealing properly. A leak down test would show the true results of a cyl.

Last edited by DDTECH; 04-05-2012 at 12:53 PM.
Old 04-05-2012, 04:58 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by ALL M0T0R
A leakdown test, would test the oil control rings as well, along with the lower one.

Is this true?

I have been told that a leak down test will not tell anything about the oil control rings. I have a similar issue with my B18C1 and have been suspecting it is the head, specifcally the guides. People keep telling me it is the rings. Leakdown was 4-6% across all 4 holes IIRC. I would be much happier if it was the head versus the bottom end.
Old 04-05-2012, 05:01 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by Salami
Is this true?

I have been told that a leak down test will not tell anything about the oil control rings. I have a similar issue with my B18C1 and have been suspecting it is the head, specifcally the guides. People keep telling me it is the rings. Leakdown was 4-6% across all 4 holes IIRC. I would be much happier if it was the head versus the bottom end.
When you perform a leakdown test, you're pressurizing the cyl.

You remove the dipstick and open the TB. If the air is coming out of the dipstick hole, you have rings that aren't sealing, or something else is allowing air to get past the piston. IF it coming out of the TB, something in the head is wrong, whether its a valve not seated correctly or a VJ done wrong..
OR you could have Bubbles in ur coolant, which would show a leak around the waterjacket(Cyl 1 or 4)

This is common sense... 4-6% is fine, its actually very good.

OP and Above poster. Remove your exhaust manifold. See if you see any cyl's are sooty.. If you do, see if the oil trail is coming from the stem of the valve, this would actually show the guides or / and seals are bad.. and need to be replaced. If its just around the valve head, then you're having oil enter the CC from the piston side of the motor.
Old 04-05-2012, 05:22 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by ALL M0T0R
OP and Above poster. Remove your exhaust manifold. See if you see any cyl's are sooty.. If you do, see if the oil trail is coming from the stem of the valve, this would actually show the guides or / and seals are bad.. and need to be replaced. If its just around the valve head, then you're having oil enter the CC from the piston side of the motor.
There is oil on one of the valve stems just below the guide the number 1 exhaust port. Very surprised to see since all of the exhaust guides and all intake/exhaust valve seals were replace a year ago/6,000 miles. Wondering if the valve stem is a factor also? Head is coming off Tuesday so I guess I will know for sure then.
Old 04-05-2012, 05:54 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

I want to correct the misinformation in this thread but will do it as nicely as possible and not quote anyone.

A Leak-Down test will in NO way, shape, or form tell you what the condition of the oil control rings are in. The compression rings? Yes. This is a HUGE misnomer and if you know anything about what the oil control rings do exactly you will know why a leak-down doesn't show the condition of them.

If you look at the "spring tension" of them this is a dead give away. The spring between the rings is just a spacing device to prevent ring flutter and promotes oil drain back.

You can have bubbles in the coolant coming from ANY cylinder. Any cylinder could be cracked or even the head. The gasket could be blown in any cylinder as well.

Also, a "sooty" exhaust port could also be caused by the tune or how the engine is driven...

As said before - SYNTHETIC OIL IS MOLECULARLY SMALLER = THINNER THAN CONVENTIONAL OIL!!!

OP - We need to back this up quite a bit... How was the engine broken in exactly? The compression is pretty uneven for a freshly built engine.

There is too much generic information that could cause major headaches or holes in your wallet if taken too serious.
Old 04-05-2012, 06:37 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Good luck OP.

Last edited by DDTECH; 04-05-2012 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Not worth arguing with internet trolls.
Old 04-05-2012, 06:51 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

TH3 MOL3CUL3S AR3 SMALL3R?!?!
Old 04-05-2012, 07:50 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by N3va3vaSatisfi3d
I want to correct the misinformation in this thread but will do it as nicely as possible and not quote anyone.

A Leak-Down test will in NO way, shape, or form tell you what the condition of the oil control rings are in. The compression rings? Yes. This is a HUGE misnomer and if you know anything about what the oil control rings do exactly you will know why a leak-down doesn't show the condition of them.

If you look at the "spring tension" of them this is a dead give away. The spring between the rings is just a spacing device to prevent ring flutter and promotes oil drain back.

You can have bubbles in the coolant coming from ANY cylinder. Any cylinder could be cracked or even the head. The gasket could be blown in any cylinder as well.

Also, a "sooty" exhaust port could also be caused by the tune or how the engine is driven...

As said before - SYNTHETIC OIL IS MOLECULARLY SMALLER = THINNER THAN CONVENTIONAL OIL!!!

OP - We need to back this up quite a bit... How was the engine broken in exactly? The compression is pretty uneven for a freshly built engine.

There is too much generic information that could cause major headaches or holes in your wallet if taken too serious.

If your are going to correct "misinformation" why in turn would you give crappy information yourself? Soot caused from drying style really? And have you ever performed a leak down test ? The last time I checked a compression test is a crude form of a leak down!!! Synthetic oil thinner? It's a refined and "slicker" lubricant. Ok now back to the op you need to take the exhaust manifold off and look at the ports to ensure their is no issue with the valve quides or seals. But before that the motor need a wet and dry compression test done, and a leak down test then come back and let us know the results. Also is the car smoking at all when hot or cold?
Old 04-05-2012, 08:07 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by ALL M0T0R
What?? ..



Valve seals..?
Leak down test?

Compression test only tells 1 story when they are 3..
I was always told that at the parts store if I burned oil use something or more weight or better quality oil. I'm sorry if I'm passing on wrong info. Please dis regard my post. Nice to know that full synthetic doesn't make a difference. I too am still new at the small details and all of us are still learning. It's not like we developed the engines.
Old 04-05-2012, 08:39 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by pArAdOxsqUArE
I was always told that at the parts store if I burned oil use something or more weight or better quality oil. I'm sorry if I'm passing on wrong info. Please dis regard my post. Nice to know that full synthetic doesn't make a difference. I too am still new at the small details and all of us are still learning. It's not like we developed the engines.
no reason to be sorry you just didn't know... using a thicker oil is usually an attempt to get rings to re-seat on a vehicle. in most cases it's a band aid for a major issue. parts stores are just that parts stores most of the time if you can fog up the glass you can get a job at one, it is rare in this day and age to find a parts guy that knows his products he sells.
Old 04-05-2012, 08:49 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

was the compression test done after you noticed the oil level was low?

did you check for oil leaks?

is the car blue smoking?

did you fill it and drive any more to notice if the motor is still losing oil?
Old 04-05-2012, 09:07 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by mikesrex
was the compression test done after you noticed the oil level was low?

did you check for oil leaks?

is the car blue smoking?

did you fill it and drive any more to notice if the motor is still losing oil?


this is some good info!!! i think the op needs to dumb it down and look at the obvious first...
Old 04-06-2012, 03:33 AM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

A leak down test is performed static at one position in the cylinder. The oil burns when the engine is running, so really your only hoping to find some major clue as to whats causing it. However its not usually that easy. A leakdown and compression test will not necessarily show your rings ability to keep oil from getting into the cylinder under running conditions. Or anything to do with valve seals or guides either.

You will know there is a glaring problem if the numbers are all over the board or there is a dramatic mechanical issue with a particular cylinder. Never assume that a compression and leakdown test is the end all be all diagnosis, there is simply much more too it than that.
Old 04-06-2012, 09:26 AM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

I wish I could talk to you guys face to face sometimes. The most ignorant stuff goes on here it's insane. I will make it very simple for the simple minded:



Ok kids, which oil shows to be thinner when compared to the same weight? If you need more pictures to answer this question I am sure I can help you out. Synthetic oil when in its base form is thinner than conventional. When HEATED up to operating temperature they are the same thickness. When heated past optimal temperature conventional oil thins out and some time later synthetic follows. As was mentioned by other people - synthetic is slicker. Why is this? Because it is MOLECULARLY SMALLER and the molecules are more "uniform" than conventional. Educate yourself.

As said before - Soot in the exhaust could ALSO be caused (not limited to) tune and driving style. Even some stock vehicles shoot out black smoke when beat on. Have you ever pulled manifolds after driving a track car 250 laps at near redline/WOT the entire time? This can relate back to the tune but I assure you even at a "perfect" WOT of ~13:1 AFR it will build up over time. This can also be related to shifting (ECU table differentials)... Do I need to show videos too?

"2.0" - You should probably just shut your trap and back out slowly. "Thicker oil helps reseat the rings?" - Are you even SERIOUS? HAha, thanks for the laugh. It is laughable that you would even question what I wrote. I recommend you stay in school and learn how to read. Everyone here obviously has a LOT of research to do.

Enough of the childish banter - OP you need to start with the basics and go from there. Answer the questions asked in this thread before we can help.
Old 04-06-2012, 01:03 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by N3va3vaSatisfi3d
I wish I could talk to you guys face to face sometimes. The most ignorant stuff goes on here it's insane. I will make it very simple for the simple minded:



Ok kids, which oil shows to be thinner when compared to the same weight? If you need more pictures to answer this question I am sure I can help you out. Synthetic oil when in its base form is thinner than conventional. When HEATED up to operating temperature they are the same thickness. When heated past optimal temperature conventional oil thins out and some time later synthetic follows. As was mentioned by other people - synthetic is slicker. Why is this? Because it is MOLECULARLY SMALLER and the molecules are more "uniform" than conventional. Educate yourself.

As said before - Soot in the exhaust could ALSO be caused (not limited to) tune and driving style. Even some stock vehicles shoot out black smoke when beat on. Have you ever pulled manifolds after driving a track car 250 laps at near redline/WOT the entire time? This can relate back to the tune but I assure you even at a "perfect" WOT of ~13:1 AFR it will build up over time. This can also be related to shifting (ECU table differentials)... Do I need to show videos too?

"2.0" - You should probably just shut your trap and back out slowly. "Thicker oil helps reseat the rings?" - Are you even SERIOUS? HAha, thanks for the laugh. It is laughable that you would even question what I wrote. I recommend you stay in school and learn how to read. Everyone here obviously has a LOT of research to do.

Enough of the childish banter - OP you need to start with the basics and go from there. Answer the questions asked in this thread before we can help.
Keep my mouth shut really it's retards like you that make this site unappealing to the masses. Go back to school hmmm you obviously have no clue who you are talking to. You obviously have no clue when you are wrong and no actual hands on experience. Childish banter look what you just posted seriously ???
Old 04-06-2012, 01:18 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Maybe you should go back and read by the way !!!!!
Old 04-06-2012, 07:34 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

Originally Posted by ALL M0T0R
Good luck OP.
Old 04-08-2012, 01:36 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

viscosity has more to do than just molecular size, and that pic you posted really shows us jack ****. all in all none of what you posted has **** to do with the situation at hand.

Originally Posted by N3va3vaSatisfi3d
I wish I could talk to you guys face to face sometimes. The most ignorant stuff goes on here it's insane. I will make it very simple for the simple minded:



Ok kids, which oil shows to be thinner when compared to the same weight? If you need more pictures to answer this question I am sure I can help you out. Synthetic oil when in its base form is thinner than conventional. When HEATED up to operating temperature they are the same thickness. When heated past optimal temperature conventional oil thins out and some time later synthetic follows. As was mentioned by other people - synthetic is slicker. Why is this? Because it is MOLECULARLY SMALLER and the molecules are more "uniform" than conventional. Educate yourself.

As said before - Soot in the exhaust could ALSO be caused (not limited to) tune and driving style. Even some stock vehicles shoot out black smoke when beat on. Have you ever pulled manifolds after driving a track car 250 laps at near redline/WOT the entire time? This can relate back to the tune but I assure you even at a "perfect" WOT of ~13:1 AFR it will build up over time. This can also be related to shifting (ECU table differentials)... Do I need to show videos too?

"2.0" - You should probably just shut your trap and back out slowly. "Thicker oil helps reseat the rings?" - Are you even SERIOUS? HAha, thanks for the laugh. It is laughable that you would even question what I wrote. I recommend you stay in school and learn how to read. Everyone here obviously has a LOT of research to do.

Enough of the childish banter - OP you need to start with the basics and go from there. Answer the questions asked in this thread before we can help.
Old 04-08-2012, 02:12 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

conventional oil vs synthetic



Old 04-08-2012, 10:41 PM
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Default Re: Rebuilt GSR burning oil

who knew that oil molecules were shaped like bowling ***** lmao


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