RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Car:
1992 Honda Civic DX

Motor:
JDM H22A (stock- just I/H/E)

Fuel Setup:
Aeromotive Tsunami Fuel Pump
Summit Racing 10 Gallon Fuel Cell
-8AN lines from Fuel Cell To Fuel Pump
-8AN lines from Fuel Pump to Aeromotive FPR
-6AN lines from FPR to Fuel Rail
-8AN lines for Fuel Return and Rollover Vent

My problem:
I only recently got the car running again. The fuel pump doesn't come on every time I turn the key to the On position. When I drove the car to the gas station yesterday it felt really hesitant, like it was bucking while driving. After getting fuel, I just wanted to get it home (less than a 1/4 mile) so I pulled out of the gas station and it died as I was stopping to make the U-turn back into my neighborhood.

When I shut the key off, the fuel pressure gauge reads zero.

My question:
Is the fuel pump going bad or does it sound like I have another problem? Is there a way I can check the fuel pump to see if its getting the right voltage or anything?

Thanks for any help you guys can give me. I can take pictures if necessary. One shitty fuel cell picture just to lure people into my thread. :p

ChicagoMike

I had a very similar problem, but it turned out to be the main realy starting to fail. 92-95 civics are notorious for it.

Just throwing that out there..........not saying thats definately your problem.

scmil95eg

That could be ECU, or main relay....

Normal with that setup. There is no check valve in that pump and you don't list an in-line check valve anywhere, so when the pump isn't running - you're not going to hold any pressure.

Could be pump, could be something else.....

Voltometer on pump terminals. Should have 13 volts at least.

Disconnect the vacuum reference line from your pressure relief valve, start the car (if you can), and monitor your system pressure. I don't recommend this for a extended period of time, by any means, but if you have an adjustable pressure relief valve, that pump should handle 70 psi with no trouble. If you turned your pr valve up to 70 or 75 psi and the pump starts making bad noises, or fuel pressure becomes erratic, or if you can't even get the pressure to go that high - you may have a bad pump.

Or, you can flow test it by keeping your pr valve installed and running the return line from it to a 1 gallon (milk) jug. Set the fuel pressure to 70 psi and time how long it takes to fill the 1 gallon jug. For example, a A1000 in good shape should fill the jug in about 70 seconds at 70 psi (325 lb/hr). You can use Aeromotives supplied flow data to calculate times if you choose this method. Or you could send your pump somewhere to get flow tested.

crxscibo

check all the wireing to the pump if not could be just a faulty pump had that prob with my last car usually the obvious things

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

I spoke the previous owner of the car. The car was a 10 second drag car with a 3 gallon fuel cell in its last life.

I got the car back on the road with the 3 gallon fuel cell, but I got sold a bad motor so I had to pull it. I replaced it with another stock motor and added the new fuel cell. The previous owner said the relay he added for the fuel pump might be going bad. I replaced the relay and the car is still dying.

I drove around the car in my neighborhood today and sometimes when I push in the clutch it'll stay alive and sometimes it'll die. When it dies the idle just kinda drops off and it dies.

FST GSR 1

That's a a terrible setup, I wouldn't be surprised if you burn-up a pump a year...Is that picture recent? That's a Jegs/Summit 15 gallon flat bottom with a (GM)90ohm sender isn't it? Where is the fuel pump, under the car?

Aeromotives don't have check valves as stated, they will bleed pressure so when the ignition switch is cycled, it will always go to zero. your problem sounds like a power source problem, also you will burn pumps up if you drive the car like this.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, its a Summit 10 Gallon flat bottom with a GM 90ohm sender.

Pump is under the car.

I agree that it seems like a power issue. That's why I replaced the relay that was added for the fuel pump. I initially debated just running the fuel pump to a switch, but I'd rather not if I don't have too.

Why will it burn through pumps?

Thanks for your help man.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Picture was taken before I cranked the car. If you think more recent pictures will help, I can take some.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

.

DSRxCandyh2bEG

iTrader: (4)

Is the car still wired for an OEM pump? If the car was a drag car, i'm assuming it is pretty gutted huh? If you can, try going back to the stock tank and fuel pump setup cause you will not really neeed that summit tank and pump setup for an allmotor street car...

FST GSR 1

You mean I don't need this? **** the stock pump and tank...

FST GSR 1

To the op: Summit doesn't make a 10 gallon with a 90 ohm sender, they make 15's and 20's I believe. Also that picture is taken from the back of the car? I see a vent line and a return line? The feed line is facing the front of the car then? Is the cell filled with foam? Without a sump and the feed line facing the wrong way, don't run the cell too low.

DSRxCandyh2bEG

iTrader: (4)

Calm down there big guy, haha. I said its not absolutely necessary for an all motor street car.

And I meant use the stock gas tank and wiring etc. Try using a Denso 255lph pump.

Also, like FST GSR said, it might be because your tank isnt sumped, or is it?

FST GSR 1

Now you're calling me fat too? Jesus...

I don't think the OP has those, if it was a drag car it most likely had a smaller cell and they gutted the hardware and stock fuel system.

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

That's a very nice fuel setup. I'm jealous.

DSRxCandyh2bEG

iTrader: (4)

LOL.../

Yea I'm pretty sure that's the case...

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it is still wired for the oem pump. Some of the original fuel lines remain and the filler neck. The previous owner put a much smaller fuel cell, 3 gal, and kept most of the stock fuel lines in case he ever turned the car back to stock.

Well when I bought the car, I drove it with my H2B and the 3 gal fuel cell. It really sucked for driving and the motor I purchased was bad. I pulled the motor and I decided to get a bigger fuel cell while it was out. I've spent a lot of money on the fuel cell and lines and all the AN fittings. I'd rather keep it since I have it, but I have started looking for local parts cars that have all the stock fuel stuff.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, they don't make it. I have a 10 gallon fuel cell and I ordered the 90 ohm sending unit when I ordered the fuel cell along with an Autometer fuel gauge for it.

I will get you better pictures tonight, so you can see everything.

RotiEatter

iTrader: (1)

Your fuel setup is sick by the way. I wish I had seen pictures of something like that before I had done mine, haha. Would have completely changed everything for me.

92eg_h22

bump it up to help a good friend solve this bug.

FST GSR 1

Thanks. FYI, my pump is on a switch...you can see my main switch/gauge panel in the 2nd to last picture in the factory radio location. I also have detail drawings of everything and 3D solid models of the trunk modification for the fuel system. It takes some fab work to the existing chassis, but then its easy from there. Pic's below, it's not too late to change your mind!

Roti: If you already drove the car with that pump and the 3 gallon before, it drove fine? Does the relay running the pump use the OEM ignition trigger?


Stock Trunk layout

Modified cutting

Modified welding(green=cross supports, blue= 16 gauge panel welded and seam sealed)

Completed section view

After welding and bedliner coating with interior re-installed