How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb
10-29-2006, 08:43 PM
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How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb
Spun Vtec’s Sohc ITB how to:
This is a how to on my pastime for nearly the last year. I started out with a set of stock CBR 954rr ITB’s , a hacked up OBX intake manifold and a few other CBR odds and ends.
On stock bottom end with a1 pistons and stock head (trial run)(d16z6) with bolt on’s and chrome I went 14.8 @ 94.20 (will have new eta’s with fully built motor in spring).
Parts list:
• CBR ITB’s, injectors, injector plugs
• Aprox 1/8”thick x1”wide x12” long steel (got at Lowes in 3’ section) (for throttle bracket)
• Aprox 1/8” thick x ¾” wide x 4” long (got at Lowes in 4’ section)(for idle adjustment)
• Velocity stacks
• Obx sohc intake manifold
• 10 Nylon spacers aprox ½ “wide ¼”thick with ¼” hole in center
• D16y8 fuel rail (I think the z6 would work also)
• Misc. metric nuts and bolts (Lowes rules)
• Vacuum manifold
• Vacuum line
• Engine mgmt of some kind I would recommend Chrome with ITB tools
• Tap and dye set makes things a lot nicer also
• 10 Brass barb fittings I forget size but maybe ½” to ¼” or ¼” to ¼” see pics
• One bigger barb fitting for brakes to manifold
• Vacuum caps from lowes red and black color
• 2 packs of JB quick (lowes)
Notes:
I eliminated the IACV because the car is not a street car it didn’t seem to run any better even when I had it hooked up.
I have my Intake Air Temp sensor positioned up near the ITB’s I plan on making a bracket for it in the future.
How I made it work:
The OBX manifold was a good match to the CBR 954rr TB’s. I had to use 2 nylon spacers to move the set’s about ¼” apart to line them up with the manifold.
I see a lot of DIY ITB’s using the stock manifold with modification or with new runners TIG welded on . They will work out fine but I liked how the OBX was angled up into the cow of the hood. I removed the weather stripping and wiper motor cover and also shimmed the hood up 1” to allow for the maximum airflow to the ITB’s. Check out how they look from out side the car:
starting out:
Here Is a Pic. Of the modification I had to do to the Y8 fuel rail:
Next I had to modify the idle adjustment bracket see pic below (dremel tool or cut off wheel works fine. I used a washer and Locktite to make sure they didn’t come loose.)
The Idle adjustment plate is pretty easy to make follow the Pictures below, make sure to thread the plate for the adjuster and double nut it so it won’t come loose with the vibration. Aprox 1/8” thick x ¾” wide x 4” long Aluminum. I opted to go with the bolt (pic 2) instead of the turn dial (pic 1) because I wanted it to look clean and I didn’t want the thing flopping around or coming loose.
then went to :
Next I chose to go with aftermarket velocity stacks. The stock CBR’s prob would have fit. I just drilled and tapped holes in the TB’s and used sealer to seal them up when I bolted the stacks on. Keep in mind that plastic part (I painted it to look like metal that the stacks sit on) Seals against the TB’s acting like a vacuum manifold. Any holes in It and it will act like a vacuum leak causing the car to have a high idle.
The throttle cable was made out of Aprox. 1/8”thick x1”wide x12” long steel (aluminum is to week) I used the hole from another one as a guide and I used a hammer and bench vice to make the bracket. (Steel will get rusty so paint it before putting it on for good).
The Vacuum box can be made out of anything really. I made mine from stainless pipe and welded ends and a bracket onto it, but my original one was made out of PVC. Golden Eagle box will work well also. I’m not sure if the fact that the G.E. box is small will hurt your braking but I decided that one the size of mine would be a good choice.(I need all the brake I can get (the car is built for autox / road racing.)
(pic was before I made the bracket and painted it)
Side note: I had good luck and would suggest keeping it as close to the vacuum source as you can. (I had aprox 18” of vacuum lines when I first got the setup running and it didn’t seem like the map or the FPR got a good reading and it ran bad. (I shortened the lines up and moved the vacuum manifold close to the ITB’s and that made the car run a ton better.
I took barb fittings from Lowes and used a socket and threaded them into the injector holes in the intake manifold. Then coated them with JB Weld to insure no vacuum leaks. I chose to run the CBR’s injector location to get better fuel atomization. I also used the CBR’s injectors because they seem to have 4 holes where the fuel comes out instead of just one (stock only has one hole). I believe they are also 240cc (correct me if I am wrong). I also had to trim the little lip, in the middle inside the rubber boots that came on the CBR’s ITB’s so they would not pop off where the ITB’s Connect to the manifold. I did this with a utility knife (only takes about 5 min) be careful not to cut yourself!.
the quality on the obx manifold is shitty and it was flakeing off so i painted it with high heat black
Other build pics and angles:
I clear coated the velocity stacks and they look dirty in the pics. they look fine in the daylight??
my car:
It took me a bit to make the idle right in fact I just changed a few things around and im in the process of idle tuning now. I am going to try to tune each TB based upon the temp that the cylinder puts out. But I ghetto tuned it by putting my hand over the TB and trying to get them to all “suck” the same. It will take you A little time to get it.
Chris from Metric Motorsport Hooked me up with the wideband and help on the tune.
Finished Product:
Thanks to Chris @ Metric Motorsport (MetricMotorsport.com) for putting up with me at his shop everyday and Dan (Crixzc) for the help and advice.
Any questions of advice feel free to post .
Thanks spun.
edit Fixed a few things:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::
the cbr injector: with the 4 holes
another shot of the car
my new portmatched head will sure fix this problem, Ill put it on the car one of these years.
I fixed the problem of the injectors spraying onto the runner floor. I flipped the boots upside down. You can see in this pic, the ones on the ends are flipped upside down. The one in the middle is the way they used to be. This setup makes the fuel spray directly into the head port.
Inside the stack at WOT with the dowell
I have much more space now compaired to the build shots taken in my parents garage. I got the new garage a few months ago. I have another bench this size on the back wall of the garage.
Modified by spun Vtec at 1:30 AM 5/24/2007
This is a how to on my pastime for nearly the last year. I started out with a set of stock CBR 954rr ITB’s , a hacked up OBX intake manifold and a few other CBR odds and ends.
On stock bottom end with a1 pistons and stock head (trial run)(d16z6) with bolt on’s and chrome I went 14.8 @ 94.20 (will have new eta’s with fully built motor in spring).
Parts list:
• CBR ITB’s, injectors, injector plugs
• Aprox 1/8”thick x1”wide x12” long steel (got at Lowes in 3’ section) (for throttle bracket)
• Aprox 1/8” thick x ¾” wide x 4” long (got at Lowes in 4’ section)(for idle adjustment)
• Velocity stacks
• Obx sohc intake manifold
• 10 Nylon spacers aprox ½ “wide ¼”thick with ¼” hole in center
• D16y8 fuel rail (I think the z6 would work also)
• Misc. metric nuts and bolts (Lowes rules)
• Vacuum manifold
• Vacuum line
• Engine mgmt of some kind I would recommend Chrome with ITB tools
• Tap and dye set makes things a lot nicer also
• 10 Brass barb fittings I forget size but maybe ½” to ¼” or ¼” to ¼” see pics
• One bigger barb fitting for brakes to manifold
• Vacuum caps from lowes red and black color
• 2 packs of JB quick (lowes)
Notes:
I eliminated the IACV because the car is not a street car it didn’t seem to run any better even when I had it hooked up.
I have my Intake Air Temp sensor positioned up near the ITB’s I plan on making a bracket for it in the future.
How I made it work:
The OBX manifold was a good match to the CBR 954rr TB’s. I had to use 2 nylon spacers to move the set’s about ¼” apart to line them up with the manifold.
I see a lot of DIY ITB’s using the stock manifold with modification or with new runners TIG welded on . They will work out fine but I liked how the OBX was angled up into the cow of the hood. I removed the weather stripping and wiper motor cover and also shimmed the hood up 1” to allow for the maximum airflow to the ITB’s. Check out how they look from out side the car:
starting out:
Here Is a Pic. Of the modification I had to do to the Y8 fuel rail:
Next I had to modify the idle adjustment bracket see pic below (dremel tool or cut off wheel works fine. I used a washer and Locktite to make sure they didn’t come loose.)
The Idle adjustment plate is pretty easy to make follow the Pictures below, make sure to thread the plate for the adjuster and double nut it so it won’t come loose with the vibration. Aprox 1/8” thick x ¾” wide x 4” long Aluminum. I opted to go with the bolt (pic 2) instead of the turn dial (pic 1) because I wanted it to look clean and I didn’t want the thing flopping around or coming loose.
then went to :
Next I chose to go with aftermarket velocity stacks. The stock CBR’s prob would have fit. I just drilled and tapped holes in the TB’s and used sealer to seal them up when I bolted the stacks on. Keep in mind that plastic part (I painted it to look like metal that the stacks sit on) Seals against the TB’s acting like a vacuum manifold. Any holes in It and it will act like a vacuum leak causing the car to have a high idle.
The throttle cable was made out of Aprox. 1/8”thick x1”wide x12” long steel (aluminum is to week) I used the hole from another one as a guide and I used a hammer and bench vice to make the bracket. (Steel will get rusty so paint it before putting it on for good).
The Vacuum box can be made out of anything really. I made mine from stainless pipe and welded ends and a bracket onto it, but my original one was made out of PVC. Golden Eagle box will work well also. I’m not sure if the fact that the G.E. box is small will hurt your braking but I decided that one the size of mine would be a good choice.(I need all the brake I can get (the car is built for autox / road racing.)
(pic was before I made the bracket and painted it)
Side note: I had good luck and would suggest keeping it as close to the vacuum source as you can. (I had aprox 18” of vacuum lines when I first got the setup running and it didn’t seem like the map or the FPR got a good reading and it ran bad. (I shortened the lines up and moved the vacuum manifold close to the ITB’s and that made the car run a ton better.
I took barb fittings from Lowes and used a socket and threaded them into the injector holes in the intake manifold. Then coated them with JB Weld to insure no vacuum leaks. I chose to run the CBR’s injector location to get better fuel atomization. I also used the CBR’s injectors because they seem to have 4 holes where the fuel comes out instead of just one (stock only has one hole). I believe they are also 240cc (correct me if I am wrong). I also had to trim the little lip, in the middle inside the rubber boots that came on the CBR’s ITB’s so they would not pop off where the ITB’s Connect to the manifold. I did this with a utility knife (only takes about 5 min) be careful not to cut yourself!.
the quality on the obx manifold is shitty and it was flakeing off so i painted it with high heat black
Other build pics and angles:
I clear coated the velocity stacks and they look dirty in the pics. they look fine in the daylight??
my car:
It took me a bit to make the idle right in fact I just changed a few things around and im in the process of idle tuning now. I am going to try to tune each TB based upon the temp that the cylinder puts out. But I ghetto tuned it by putting my hand over the TB and trying to get them to all “suck” the same. It will take you A little time to get it.
Chris from Metric Motorsport Hooked me up with the wideband and help on the tune.
Finished Product:
Thanks to Chris @ Metric Motorsport (MetricMotorsport.com) for putting up with me at his shop everyday and Dan (Crixzc) for the help and advice.
Any questions of advice feel free to post .
Thanks spun.
edit Fixed a few things:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::::::::
the cbr injector: with the 4 holes
another shot of the car
my new portmatched head will sure fix this problem, Ill put it on the car one of these years.
I fixed the problem of the injectors spraying onto the runner floor. I flipped the boots upside down. You can see in this pic, the ones on the ends are flipped upside down. The one in the middle is the way they used to be. This setup makes the fuel spray directly into the head port.
Inside the stack at WOT with the dowell
I have much more space now compaired to the build shots taken in my parents garage. I got the new garage a few months ago. I have another bench this size on the back wall of the garage.
Modified by spun Vtec at 1:30 AM 5/24/2007
10-29-2006, 09:07 PM
#2
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (spun Vtec)
you need a synchronizing tool, lol. Makes it much easier to get the idle right. But then again the really good ones are REALLY expensive. If you have any motorcycle shops around you i'm sure they could hook you up.
Looks good tho. Whats the total length of them?
Looks good tho. Whats the total length of them?
10-30-2006, 06:53 AM
#3
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (98vtec)
I never measured them I would guess around 12-14 in.
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10-30-2006, 09:25 AM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (miyagi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miyagi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 
that galapagos green integra in the background of the one pic is teh sex. who's is it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Its been at the shop so long im not sure who's it is.
It is sexy though.
that galapagos green integra in the background of the one pic is teh sex. who's is it
</TD></TR></TABLE>Its been at the shop so long im not sure who's it is.
It is sexy though.
10-30-2006, 09:26 AM
#9
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (b16civster)
outstanding. how is the daily drivability? idle?
did you pull your hair out? love the vacuum box mounting location. genious.
did you pull your hair out? love the vacuum box mounting location. genious.
10-30-2006, 09:37 AM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (xDEFTONESx)
with that setup I only have less then a 1/4th inch of vacuum line between the fittings. Its not a daily but the idle is decent. The car is way too loud with the 3" B-pipe to think about daily driving it. But before I had the B-pipe I had to drive it to work and back for 2 weeks But it wasnt that bad.(wrecked my m3)
10-30-2006, 09:57 AM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (spun Vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Its been at the shop so long im not sure who's it is. It is sexy though. </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha no seriously - i was asking who's it was. It's been so long since it's been in my driveway that i forgot i owned it too. The new parts pile at the foot of my bed is reminder enough though haha.
nice writeup by the way larry
Its been at the shop so long im not sure who's it is.
It is sexy though. </TD></TR></TABLE>haha no seriously - i was asking who's it was. It's been so long since it's been in my driveway that i forgot i owned it too. The new parts pile at the foot of my bed is reminder enough though haha.
nice writeup by the way larry
10-30-2006, 12:29 PM
#12
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (miyagi)
The setup looks great!
Any dyno numbers? Before/After?
Is the driveability alright?
Would this be recommended for a daily driver at all?
How's the throttle response?
(I know, I have alot of questions.)
- Derek
Any dyno numbers? Before/After?
Is the driveability alright?
Would this be recommended for a daily driver at all?
How's the throttle response?
(I know, I have alot of questions.)
- Derek
10-30-2006, 01:44 PM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (D-Rob)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The setup looks great!
Any dyno numbers? Before/After?
Is the driveability alright?
Would this be recommended for a daily driver at all?
How's the throttle response?
(I know, I have alot of questions.)
- Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>
no dyno numbers, I didnt want to get this car on the dyno because the ITB setup was built to use on my built motor. I wanted to Try the setup out on a fairly stock motor with stock cam before I had the new motor in there for troubleshooting purposes.
Driveability is great I can say its just as good as when i had the y8 mani on. If i was daily driving it i would have some kind of filters on it. Im planing on putting screen where the velocity stacks meet the plastic deck. so its not visiable from the engine bay.
also for a daily i wouldnt shim the hood or remove the weather stripping
Throttle responce is sick but lost all bottom end dosnt start to pull untill after 4000 (im reving the z6 to 8200 with arb rod bolts but im planing to spin the new motor till it quits making power I would be ok with 8500-9000)
It maked a sick whisleing sound at low -mid rpm (sounds like a faint spooling turbo)
Any dyno numbers? Before/After?
Is the driveability alright?
Would this be recommended for a daily driver at all?
How's the throttle response?
(I know, I have alot of questions.)
- Derek</TD></TR></TABLE>
no dyno numbers, I didnt want to get this car on the dyno because the ITB setup was built to use on my built motor. I wanted to Try the setup out on a fairly stock motor with stock cam before I had the new motor in there for troubleshooting purposes.
Driveability is great I can say its just as good as when i had the y8 mani on. If i was daily driving it i would have some kind of filters on it. Im planing on putting screen where the velocity stacks meet the plastic deck. so its not visiable from the engine bay.
also for a daily i wouldnt shim the hood or remove the weather stripping
Throttle responce is sick but lost all bottom end dosnt start to pull untill after 4000 (im reving the z6 to 8200 with arb rod bolts but im planing to spin the new motor till it quits making power I would be ok with 8500-9000)
It maked a sick whisleing sound at low -mid rpm (sounds like a faint spooling turbo)
10-30-2006, 01:56 PM
#16
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (spun Vtec)
Sounds good.
I take it you took into account length from the valve to the butterly when fabbing these up?
Also, what's the final inner diameter on these TB's?
I take it you took into account length from the valve to the butterly when fabbing these up?
Also, what's the final inner diameter on these TB's?
10-30-2006, 06:41 PM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (D-Rob)
Im not sure they are 2000 cbr954RR. and is there a certian legnth that is recommended? I just kept it as long as I could so i could cut it shorter if i needed to but I didnt. I can always go shorter but it seemed to work out nice the way it ended up.
10-30-2006, 06:48 PM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (spun Vtec)
with the honda bike itb, is the tps sensor the same or can it be be used?
what size are the the cbr1000rr throttle bodies???
what size are the the cbr1000rr throttle bodies???
10-30-2006, 06:59 PM
#19
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (alterdcreations)
thats the cool thing about the honda CBR throttles, your stock TPS connector will hookup to it, but it will require scaling the voltage for the ecu to read it correctly.
10-30-2006, 08:40 PM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (98vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats the cool thing about the honda CBR throttles, your stock TPS connector will hookup to it, but it will require scaling the voltage for the ecu to read it correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
scaling voltage?? Plug and go as far as I know. Thats what I did.
scaling voltage?? Plug and go as far as I know. Thats what I did.
10-30-2006, 08:47 PM
#21
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (spun Vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">scaling voltage?? Plug and go as far as I know. Thats what I did.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hmmm, must just be a honda thing then... Have you checked the voltage at closed and WOT? I'm not doubting that its plug and go, just wanting hard fact.
I had to scale my suzuki throttles a good bit, but thats a different factory.
hmmm, must just be a honda thing then... Have you checked the voltage at closed and WOT? I'm not doubting that its plug and go, just wanting hard fact.
I had to scale my suzuki throttles a good bit, but thats a different factory.
10-30-2006, 08:56 PM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (98vtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need a synchronizing tool, lol. Makes it much easier to get the idle right. But then again the really good ones are REALLY expensive. If you have any motorcycle shops around you i'm sure they could hook you up.
Looks good tho. Whats the total length of them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1
I bought a 4 cyl carb synch tool for my motorcycle for $60. Its the one that pretty much every motorcyle shop sells. The vaccum range is very large, so I'm pretty sure they would work for a motor of this size.
Looks good tho. Whats the total length of them?</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1
I bought a 4 cyl carb synch tool for my motorcycle for $60. Its the one that pretty much every motorcyle shop sells. The vaccum range is very large, so I'm pretty sure they would work for a motor of this size.
10-30-2006, 08:59 PM
#24
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (djphonics)
i was lucky enough to have a good friend who is a motorcycle tech at a local bike shop and the owner had a digital synch tool. ballin.
man i wish i would have been smarter with my options when i built mine
man i wish i would have been smarter with my options when i built mine
10-31-2006, 04:49 AM
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Re: How to diy ITB's individual throttle bodies everthing inside cbr 954rr 954 Itb (98vtec)
no sweat there's always time to build another one. The great thing is its relatively cheap. I think I had under 300$ in everything. Just takes a wile.