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You can risk running on a stock eco as long as you want to risk it.But I would get it tuned with aftermarket management, regardless of how little you plan to "rev".
You cannot tune on any obd2 ecu. That's what I was trying to tell you. If you want to risk running a stock p28 ecu, fine. But it's a risk of seriously damaging your engine.
The p72 (either OBD1 or OBD2) is best used if using a gs-r intake manifold, no other reason.
probably not. HT wouldn't host them. I tried to bring this up like 4 times in the past since everyone keeps linking to those old threads. when they are useless without pictures.
it would help if they at least hosted images for these informational threads that have good write-ups and are linked to by almost everyone.
or create a file server off site to store the images for write up threads
What's up guys, I just have a quick question regarding the block assembly. I hope some of you will be able help me out. Also please don't be an a** and if this is the wrong place to ask then direct me to an appropriate place/thread.
Here's my issue. I'm building Lsvtec and this thread is excellent. I have just about everything and I'm ready to start building. Only question I have is this, on my A1 block i have a hole that seems to be not plugged. I'm positive it's just one of the oil channels considering the fact it's right above the oil filter location. Anyways I notice on some pictures when you look up on google it's plugged and on others it's not. I'm curious to whether you need this plug and if you do what's it called and what can you use to plug it because my block did not come with one. Thank you guys, and I have tried searching but to be honest I'm clueless to where to start.
That is the Oil Orifice Control Plug, or "oil restrictor plug". You DO want to include it in the block or your VTEC head will not have correct oil pressure.
That is the Oil Orifice Control Plug, or "oil restrictor plug". You DO want to include it in the block or your VTEC head will not have correct oil pressure.
I just got my block back from the machine shop from being sleeved. they gave me 4 dowel pins that came out of it 2 which line the transmission and block up, but the other 2 I have no idea where they go. Also how do you get them back in they don't just slide in do I have to press them in or what?
There are two dowel pins that go from the block to the head...look at the head bolt openings near the corners on the block, their openings should be slightly larger to allow the dowel pins to slide in.
There are two dowel pins that go from the block to the head...look at the head bolt openings near the corners on the block, their openings should be slightly larger to allow the dowel pins to slide in.
ya i know there are the 2 for the head and block to line up and then 2 for the transmission and block. i dont see what else would need dowel pin as they are used to line parts up. but i came back with just the block and 4 dowel pins.
Recently got a b20v and been trying to clean it up.right now it's having some idle issues especially after warm up.1st thing is it's throwing a code 43 so I'm going to change out my sensors once I figure out what type I need.i have tried to bleed coolant,checked iacv,injectors and hose leaks.once it's warmed up I'll be coming to a stop and put it in neutral once I do that rpms would jump and down till to a complete stop and sometimes stay at steady idle 900-1100 other times it's constant 1-2k rpm up and down..any help please
I have a b20z2 with a b16a2 head just wondering which fuel filter i should get, the one for the car it is on (96 civic hatch) or if I need to get one that fits for a b20/b16 please lmk thanks
05-02-2015, 05:56 PM
Re: How to build a "reliable" lsvtec/b20vtec
goat thread 
