DarKStaR5

YCP or Nippon "type s" pistons work just fine

DarKStaR5

This is what you need to do to the valve reliefs....id still do it if you were running blue top rods just to be on safe side

Tachi

Thank you all for the advice. In keeping with crxsi's sentiment I am taking this to PM's, but will start a build thread when I actually buy an engine.

egycasper

95mm
Pro2
11.7cr
255/190
90pump

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

^^^^
Great results! What piston, rod, and head gasket combination gave you the 11.7 compression ratio? What intake manifold are you using because it looks like it might be holding you back at the top of your power band?

egycasper

I would say that's because the bad rod to strock ratio as its 141mm long ..stock h23a Rod .

egycasper

Twin TB
MYRES HOOD EXIT
6.5cc wesico pistons with 0.040" head gasket .

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

Nice set-up. That rod stroke ratio will not prevent you from making power up top. There are people making power higher with similar ratios. It is definitely an air flow or fuel issue... those cams should be good for a bit more rpms. Most likely too small of a plenum because I doubt that the sock H head is holding you back. If you are using the OEM lower intake manifold, did you fill weld the underside and port it so that it is all flush like this? If you leave any of the fins in there it will prevent you from making power up top. There is a guy Zuptidi, i think his name is, that ran a dual TB intake and confirmed this on the dyno.

egycasper

Here is my old dyno graph 240/177 it holds power up to 8500
And yes my lower IM is ported and my head is ported and polished as well
About fuel I use ID1000 at 60 psi regulator .
And here is another graph with 250/185 same everything.
Car runs fine I will try to upload a video but I don't know how yet :-)

ESP.net

I covered this years ago in the Mystery Motor thread to the page before. Blue Top H23AV Cams either P13 or PDE Heads part # are jdm H22 cams same goes for valve springs and retainers. No matter if Blue Tint on the cams which is a magnesium coating or not. Blue Tint is on most P13 cams 2000-2001. PDE H23AV Blue Tops are 2000-2001. PDE H23AV do have same valve angle as the Type S/Euro R.

H23AV Blue Top rods are indeed 22k shorter then a H23A1/F22 rod. Which you can run a Type S/Euro R piston and still have it in the hole with the Blue Top rods. The Blue Top H23AV rods use a rod bolt not a press in. Which is a big stronger then a normal H22 rod in my opinion. The Blue Top H23AV has the lightest crank of all. Crankshaft H22 is 43/44 lbs. H23A1 is 38. F20B is 36 lbs. H23AV is 34 lbs. I weighed mine before I built my motor for giggles.

First Turbo H23AV Blue Top motor was built back in 2008. I run the H23A1/F22 rod length with the H22 pistons sticking out of the hole roughly 20k. I just compensate with a 60k thick cometic MLS headgasket. I did quite a few cookie cutter H23AV Blue Top builds with our ESP bolt ons intake/header/exhaust...Euro R manis/68PP TB... all with H22 transmissions made roughly 210-218 whp and 174-178 trq.

Yes if running Type S/Euro R pistons the different valve angle needs to be looked at if running agressive cams...

1991_crxsi

iTrader: (1)

With those numbers I'm sure the car is a blast to drive. Good work happening in Egypt.

soloturbo

great information

soloturbo

.....

Ty h2b eg

Any of y'all know what belt and water pump goes on h23a blue top oh and also thermostat

k20z1ej1

regular h22 i believe

ESP.net

Timing Belt same as H22A4... Thermostat internals is same as s2k and is is larger than h22