ptoledo

I'm currently running Blox HSL cams on my current setup. It has been street tuned. The crossover has been set to 5.5k. The car runs great, its just that I dont really feel the power till about 7-7.5k. I want more midrange.

Summary of what I got:
gsr block w/ b16 pistons (stock stroke) roughly 11.5:1 CR, gsr ported head, portmatched, blox manifold, 70MM TB, profab header and HSL cams. Setup should be making over 200.

My question is would my setup ideally perform better with a milder cam such a blox type B or Skunk stage 2s?

thanks in advance


Modified by aLLMotorDB8 at 9:06 AM 8/16/2005


Modified by aLLMotorDB8 at 11:24 AM 8/16/2005

blundar

I'd look to cam gear tuning + dyno tuning before changing camshafts.

ptoledo

up

AllMotorMadness

with your setup would go with the stg.2's or type B watever they call it.

ptoledo

b

blundar

if anything, I'd look to something more like a Skunk2 Pro1 / M22X than a B. I've tuned cars with all 3 cams, and the Pro1s+M22s made noticeably more midrange than the Bs. Massive low cam and solid tuning is what will net you midrange.

How did the street tuner deal with timing? How long did it take? Who did it?

I still think it's foolish to change out the cams without dyno time and cam gear tuning. Powerband can often be significantly changed by cam gears. Dyno tuning could reveal a lot of power missed on the street.

Rocket

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blundar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if anything, I'd look to something more like a Skunk2 Pro1 / M22X than a B. I've tuned cars with all 3 cams, and the Pro1s+M22s made noticeably more midrange than the Bs. Massive low cam and solid tuning is what will net you midrange.

How did the street tuner deal with timing? How long did it take? Who did it?

I still think it's foolish to change out the cams without dyno time and cam gear tuning. Powerband can often be significantly changed by cam gears. Dyno tuning could reveal a lot of power missed on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with Blundar.

I don't know much about the primaries on Blox B but if it idles really well the primaries aren't that hot and won't boost 3.5 - 5.5K power.

Part of the reason why the M22x has a hot primary was because I felt the Honda stock primaries power produciton was unacceptable. So I decided to trade off some idle quality for better midrange potential. These are perf cams right and not supposed to be stock like.

Rocket

Here is a pic of the m22x.

Note the lift of the primary lobe (the larger of the two non-vtec lobe). This "X" primary has 10.8mm gross lift and decent duration of 225 degrees measured at 0.050"

ptoledo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a pic of the m22x.

Note the lift of the primary lobe (the larger of the two non-vtec lobe). This "X" primary has 10.8mm gross lift and decent duration of 225 degrees measured at 0.050"
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know you don't give biased opinions. If you dont mind what are your views on the M22x vs the Skunk2 pro 1 cams?

ptoledo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blundar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How did the street tuner deal with timing? How long did it take? Who did it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don’t know the timing off the top of my head but I can check. It was set safe until I get dyno time. The tuning took 1.5 to 2 hours using chrome. My Motor builder did it and they are quite reputable.

The tuning is not aggressive, and the intent is just to be able to drive around and rip on it occasionally until I get Dyno time. Its just I kind of expected more power even though its not tuned aggressive.

blundar

You've heard me and now Rocket too tell you - CAM GEARS AND DYNO TIME. Street tuning gets you driveability - unless you're a genius (and I'm not, although I've street tuned 50+ cars in the past year) you will almost always net significantly more torque from proper dyno tuning.

Also, maybe I suck, but I can't tune an unknown all motor cam properly in 1-2 hours on the street. AFR, re-timing, pull plugs, rinse, repeat. It takes a long ******* time. I had almost 4 hours in the street tune of Ben's M22s before I considered it to be "decent."

ptoledo

Thanks for your input.

yeah... just needed to get the car on the road. I think I'm still gonna change profiles though. I need that midrange power, and it would be a waste of money to tune and not be satisfied, then retune.

RedZone

The cams you have are HSL....Slightly different then the type-bs or stage 2 S2...

The street tuning gave you the reliablity to drive the car without having any lean or rich conditions, and to give you peice of mind about driving the car without any problems....

The dyno is where you can really find power and know what your power band is...it will also give you the chance to tune the cam gears and play with timing ......things that are alot harder to do with street tuning....

I would like to see you tune the car with the cams you have, the compresion ratio and cam profile work well together and I think you can benifet from it!