SamXiong92

I have a healthy b20b motor in a 91 crx si right now that I sadly have to junk because the undercarriage is rotted to s**t. The swap will be going into an ek shell which has a d16y8 in it for my DD. Once it's finished I am using it for mostly autox and I am aware that the b20 blocks is not the choice for that kind of thing but i already got plans for that if the block decides to blow. So here's what I'm planning to do with the build. Will be happy to make at least 200, 210whp or more.

B20b Block:
stock bore and unsleeved
CP high compression piston 11:5:1 or higher
Ls crankshaft ls/b20 rods
acl rod bearings
acl thrust bearing
toda light weight flywheel
hot tanked, assemble, and balanced

b16 head:
hot tanked
3 or 5 angle valve job maybe port and polish
supertech valves, springs, and retainers
toda spec A camshafts
toda cam pulleys
Skunk2 ultra street Intake manifold
skunk2 68mm or 70mm throttle body
OEM fuel rail with 440cc injectors

Transmission:
Plan on using a GSR LSD transmission
with exeddy stage 1 clutch

Suspension:
Koni Yellows with Ground control coilovers
ASR LCA
ASR subframe
Type r Swaybars
Skunk 2 front and rear camber kit
K tune traction bar
Rear disc brake conversion from 99 00 si

ECU:
p28 chipped
hondata s300

Other things i'm going to need for the build:
Golden eagle ls/b20vtec kit 84mm gasket
Vtec water and oil pump
Arp head studs


I am still researching for the best setup possible and this is some of the things i'm planning on doing. Will take any suggestions to my build and if I"m missing anything feel free to let me know. My wife and I is both throwing money into the build and will be racing at autox events and local tracks.

PyroProblem

I'd skip the eagle crank and rods myself.
Stock 89 crank, or 87mm if you want. ARP rod bolts on factory rods have been proven to be a solid setup.

PyroProblem

Depending on what kinda fuel you run you could go higher on compression.
Good call on the asr subframe brace. I'm a victim of subframe tearout even with the beaks kit. Shoulda got the asr.

tollickj

With everything you posted you should get about 200hp. Your going to want better brakes. So either get a aftermarket brake kit or just rob a integra or 99/00 SI rear disc and put on your EK. Esp if your going to do autox. Should be a good little build. If your looking into a software to tune your ECU and your using a OBD1 ecu (P28) I'd just use crome. It'll save you some money and will get you on where you want to be at.

SamXiong92

OK thanks. Save me some bucks there. I know arp rod bolts is a must.

SamXiong92

I want to use 93 octane and that's good to know about Beaks subframe. I want to do everything right the first time around.

SamXiong92

OK I will add the rear disc brakes to my list also and I will be getting it tunes also. I will look into chrome. Thank you for the info.

SamXiong92

I've seen that the Ls and b20 crankshaft and rods are the same is that true?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes. That is true. they are the same length and use. You can use 11.5:1 on 93 octane with the right tuner and injectors no problem. But the brake upgrade is an absolute must.

SamXiong92

I will definitely upgrade the brakes. Is 440cc injectors too much for my setup? I know a tuner not too far from me that everyone keeps telling me to go to for a tune. He tuned my friend`s h2b and it pulls hard. Stock internals with aftermarket headers, exhaust, and intake and got 220whp if I remember correctly.

tollickj

440cc would be ideal. I wouldn't go any higher though for a all motor build.

93egSLEEPER

Meh. Go as big as you want. Tuner will make anything work.

I'm going to be running ID1000's on my NA build here soon

PyroProblem

Skip the AEM fuel rail too. No need for it when a stock one will work just fine.
And by ARP "bolts", I assume you mean ARP head STUDS? Studs are better. RE-useable more times and less chances of damaging the block threads.

Ive never used Crome before, but it seems like it is not the best choice unless you are really on a tight budget and don't mind working through all the "bugs" Crome has. This is just what Ive read on here over the years. If you want a more "stable" tuning software, look into Neptune or Hondata. Ultimately your tuner is gonna be the one using it, so definitely talk to him personally.

Last bit of advice is make sure all your clearances are setup correctly. Triple check them. All the best parts in the world don't mean anything if you measure .001" off or a decimal point gets moved to the wrong spot. Good luck!

SamXiong92

I am going to stick to the 440cc injectors unless I'm going to go turbo but that will be later down the road after this build.

SamXiong92

Yes that's what I meant. Arp head studs. Sorry about that. This build won't be a budget build so I am going to look into neptune and hondata. As for the clearance, I will look more into that as well so I won't have to spend more than I should on the build and thanks for pointing out key things that I completely overlooked.

SamXiong92

I appreciate everyone's input on helping me with this build. If there's anything else on the list that I wouldn't need, I can use oem parts to save a little money (that won't effect the build performance wise), point it out to me so I can take it off my list. Also parts that I don't have listed. Again thank you all.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

<p>stock b20</p><p>16g turbo&nbsp;</p><p>240whp for half the cost</p>

blackeg

typical response from a guy with turbo in his username lol!


op- if you are worried about the b20 block not being the best choice then get it css'd. not sure why you are set on stock bore but id bet it needs at least 84.25 to clean up any out of round that is there. i would just css (for your peace of mind its not much money overall) then go 84.5mm. some itr reps either rs or the ycp's and arp replacement rod studs in the oem rods will do the trick.

SamXiong92

Thanks for your input but I'm staying away from turbo for now lol.

SamXiong92

I'm not to worried about the block. If I bore the block I wouldn't want to go no bigger than 84.5mm because I don't plan on sleeving the block. I was looking at the RS and the YCP also and still deciding which one I want to go wit.

PyroProblem

And to add to the brake upgrade part, the 1 inch master cylinder from an Integra feels great. Pedal pressure and travel is really good in my opinion. You'll have to use the teggy booster as well and reflare 1 line if I remember correctly.

SamXiong92

[QUOTE=PyroProblem;50494000]And to add to the brake upgrade part, the 1 inch master cylinder from an Integra feels great. Pedal pressure and travel is really good in my opinion. You'll have to use the teggy booster as well and reflare 1 line if I remember

OK I'll drive my buddies dc2 and drive it just to get an idea of how it feels and if I like it I'll consider using the master cylinder from the teggy's.

wunfstgsr

Yup i plan to do the same, just got mine in the mail yesterday, this way when i put the supercharger on after i tune it N.A i still i still have injectors that will be big enough.

ojasia

I'm starting to respect built Ls's and B20's more n more Lol. I'm still gaining ground on them but I'm also in a sub 3000lb car. GL on your build.
Wanted to add I personally like the S300 V3, I have a Ipod mounted with my tunes but at the same time I can keep Hondata app up keeping n eye on ECT, IAT, for norm sakes n failsafe sake. I like it more n more as I learn.

SamXiong92

Right right. Good luck with your build.