i'm using GE 84mm headgasket made for b20 vtec. . but the oil seems to be tranny oil because i didnt lose noticeable mount of engine oil. but the tranny oil did get lower.. so i replaced the driver axle seal myself.. and it had leak so i took it to honda dealer to get it replaced. they told me if it still leaks my half shaft could be bad.. so sure enough there was leak still. so i replaced my half shaft and my axles as well. and now it is STILL leaking. i'm about to go insane. any input would be helpful. thanks guys.
car doesn't smoke. and i closed off the oil gallery as well and got the head decked.
it seems like the oil leak started at the front passenger side conrner of the headgasket, it's the corner where you can see the headgasket itself.
if it's head gasket i am thinking the problem would be worse. apparently i had oil leak from everywhere. i fixed my tranny oil leak. and the oil sandwich adaptor.. now i still have this leak. it's probably cam seal..
Sounds like you have a mess of oil leaking from several different spots...
Id suggest cleaning everything really really well and rediagnose the true source of the leak...
Did you have the block and/or head decked? If so the dowel pins may be keeping the headgasket from sealing properly...Did you use the correct headgasket?
98 civic hatch (B16B and Neptune powered)
07 Trailblazer SS (stock/ daily driver)
83 Mercedes 300D (stock/ weekend cruiser)
Did you use dowel pins when install you b20vtec? If you had the block decked or honed it is neceesarry to use a thicker head gasket because that has happen to me before. Judging from the location of the oil leak, it sounds like dowel pins to me as my friends b20vtec does that because he did not use dowel pins.
no.. not really new to hondas.. had my itr since 2001 and this is my 2nd rebuild ...
just new to b20..vtec i didn't have oil leak issue on my last itr build. but this b20 is just oil leak everywhere.
i am using GE 84mm H/G..
head has been decked. and block was checked for straightness.
i'm pretty sure the dowel pins were in place.
just replaced the dizzy O ring and all new gaskets for the valve cover. and cam seal.
so i replaced the cam seal and noticed i didnt use liquid gasket around the corner (passenger side under cam plate) so i applied it and it seems like its leaking even more. going to have to try re doing the liquid gasket...
there is something that u can put all around the oil that will dry it up... like compleatly dry then u can c where the new oil is comeing from.. there are a few sensors near the dizzy and cam seal area.. im not sure if there is oil running behind them check those maybe its loose and oils comeing out?
i gave up on my car for a while.
i finally i took my car apart today. come to think of it now.. i think i know why my car was leaking!.
its the arp head stud. i blame myself for this cuz i was lacking knowledge about this.
i "hand tighten" it as it said on the instruction that came with arp bolt. and it said dont torque the stud down. so it got me confused.
you're supposed to tighten the stud all the way and back it up 1/4 turn so they are all even height.
when i hand tightened them they were NOT the same height.
so i am in a progress of fixing it. i'll let you guys know how it goes for sure.
i changed the head gasket. I am pretty sure i fixed the problem
now one problem lead to more problems for me.
i had to take off the vtec oil line and now i have leak from the oil line to the head.
and more from oil adaptor sandwich
Yes my suggestion read over the Reliable guide to building a ls/vtec
you might get some other answers there but I think its also a good Idea to do the following
*Check that the block and head is not warped
*Use the GE dowel pins and get the OEM Gasket for your block which you will have to modify slightly, GE uses the vtec gaskets which are incorrect as you have the ls/crv block
*You need an oil catch tank/breather tank as the ls/crv head had its own kind of breather kit and the vtec head does not use this system in the head, your motor needs to breathe so give it lungs lol
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