DOHCsideracing

Alright, I'm hoping you all can give me some feedback/recommendations on a new motor build I'm going to take on.

I just got another GS-R ('95) that is in need of an engine rebuild. I spent over $2k on my last motor, and it was pretty mild by most standards. So if i were going to spend about the same amount (maybe a little more, but no more than $3k) what would be the best route?

I drive the car a ton of miles (30k/yr), and drive it pretty hard pretty much religiously. Bottom line: it has to last.

Goal: 200+ NA whp on 93 octane, with some DIY 42mm ITB's and Hondata

Would it be better to keep the B18C block, run some JDM ITR's (~11.5:1), forged rods, get some BC3+ cams, do a mild port, and whatever else I might have money left for?

Or...

Get a B20 block for ~$600, put some nice forged pistons (or would stocker B20Z pistons hold up?) and some rods, cams etc...From what I remember it isn't very easy to get 200+ on a 81mm bore (not that its easy with 84, either), but that seems to make it a little easier.

Or...

Should I get a shop made short block (like the IB B-series value block for $2k)?


I guess the question is, would the money be better spent making the B20 "bulletproof", or just build up the B18C? Which has a better life expectancy, streetable power, etc. per dollar?

Any comments would be appreciated.
Adrian

DOHCsideracing

Hello. Testing, testing...

Is this thing on?

Bump...

Professor15

There was a guy here who made 200whp on a Gsr with bc 3+ cams, he milled the head, valve job from portflow, and other stuff. But i would run itr pistons, skunk 2 stage 2 cams, valvetrain of your choice a Good flowing header and hondata. With the extra money get some port work....

Hybrid96EK

Here is my opinion. Skip the B20 Vtec idea, unless you want to dump a good deal of money into it. Its my opinion that they aren't very reliable for what it sounds like you are wanting, extended high rpm use. With that said, the B18C blow will work just fine. Replace the pistons with either USDM or JDM ITR pistons, re ring it, hone it, and put new bearings in it. ACL's work great, I have used them on many engines with no trouble. I don't think you will need to get into headwork to reach your goals, but it will certainly make it a lot easier to obtain. Perhaps some mild work similar to an ITR style head. Nothing major, save some dough. A good set of cams will be key as well, with 11.5:1 compression, I would run some Rocket M22's. Great cam for the money, and it comes with the valvetrain including ti. retainers. I would also look to installing either some Omnipower valves, or simply replacing the intake valves with ITR ones. They flow better and are lighter, allowing another 200rpms to be tached onto your redline. Along with the ITB's and some tuning, I think you will easily reach your goal and still have a very dependable daily driver. Using basic mods on my B18C1, I put down almost 180whp with a stock intake box nd no tunning. With a good set of cams and some tunning, I should hit 200whp no problem.

DOHCsideracing

Thanks for the replies so far...

So far I have 3 votes for keeping the B18C bottom end built up a little, but staying with 1.8L and unsleeved (if I read the replies correctly)

Anyone else (TBone, Omni, Rocket?)

Thanks,
Adrian

00Red_SiR

You also won't need to run Eagle rods, as stock rods will be more than adequate for anything without boost or nitrous. That should free up some money there. Sleeving or even a block guard isn't needed on the B18c either for what you're doing with it. I would say S2S2, M22's, or JUN 3's with a Hondata tune and a good header like SMSP and 2 1/2" cat back exhaust, JDM ITR pistons and slightly thinner head gasket to get you around 11.5:1 or so compression should easily net you 200whp or more. If you have money left over you can put it into a minor port and polish job, but I don't think it's absolutely required to reach your goal.