iwannarace

Is any degree of rod knock repairable by pulling the oil pan and replacing the bad bearing?

To ask this a different way, is the crank ruined as soon as, even minor, knock starts happening?

I know that you can extend the life of by replacing the bearing, but that's pretty much a bandaid, right?

Has anyone ever replaced a bad rod bearing and then beat on the car for a long time afterward and had it survive?

OneBadTurboCRV

Answers are in bold above. If you feel I am being vague then you are correct. Your questions are very vague as well. There are WAY too many variables to have a cut and dry answer. Even if the crank is scored, it depends on how bad. Are the connecting rods still round? Are things blued? MANY variables that will affect if it lasts a few minutes or a few years. Of course most will disagree with me, but there is definitely the "right", the "wrong", and the "it will get me by for now" ways of doing things. The latter is definitely a very debatable subject and boils down to what you are comfortable with risking.

v4lu3s

I am helping a friend rebuild a b18c1, it had 110k miles of street (with occasional autox and trips to the tail of the dragon) use, and when he developed a very light knock we pulled the engine and found one bearing was damaged and the crank needed to be turned. this was shut down as soon as the knock could be heard in the car.

iwannarace

Those are great answers. Open to more feedback/experience with this.

I ask because coming off the track, my engine with 1400 miles started knocking. It isn't audible at idle but is at anything but... I shut it down and haven't started it since. im just going back and forth between replacing the bearing and firing it up or tearing it apart and rebuilding. $50 bandaid vs $2k fix.

Did anyone ever do this and have it good as new??

m4xwellmurd3r

the problem with turning the crank is Honda cranks have a very thin nitride coating, and turning them usually results in roving the coating. you can have the cranks re treated but the costs usually out weigh the cost of a fresh crank that wasn't damaged

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

depends upon how much is removed on the turning. Its not an ALL or nothing type of repair. Perhaps that's why I get the great "thrown away" cranks. they don't bother to even try to polish and see how it goes.

ChrisCoupe1

easy way to get an idea of how bad it is would be to remove all the spark plugs...for ease of cranking the hand turn the motor while in time and then take a long shank screw driver and press down on each piston when at TDC...if the piston moves at all while locked at tdc your bearing is likely not long for this world. had a buddy pull his oil pan and found this



not a happy find...





.....like seriously not good

anyways turned out to be a bad bearing that totally failed about 1500 miles later

m4xwellmurd3r

http://imgur.com/a/FPOCU

that's what mine looked like. granted, I did drive it for 300 miles babying it while I gathered parts to build a new engine.

bearing finally decided to **** itself once I picked up an engine

it took an hour to clean the pan and pickup tube enough to be useable

v4lu3s

On my buddies engine he dropped the pan and girdle, inspected the rod journals and decided to pull it.

iwannarace

All that material is bearing?!? I guess that's a good guage for how bad it is. I'll probably pull the pan sometime this week...

ChrisCoupe1

yeah mostly except i think there was some leafes in there too...was windy when he took the pic