aleexiseenrique

This is my first post here, I'm new to this so sorry for any mistakes.

I bought a 1999 B18C1 block for a project I'm working. It's original bore, 81mm. I know this has been asked before but couldn't find anything. What's the perfect combination ?

Here's what I want :

Around 200-230 hp daily use
I was thinking about B16A head, stage 3 cams, titanium valves, springs, retainers. B18C1 block with arp studs, forged Pistons and rods and a B18A1 crank o B20 crank. Ps. I already have a B18A1 engine running so I can use that crank.

What you guys think or is there anything wrong, a guide would be really useful.

wunfstgsr

https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...0vtec-1676914/

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's not as relevant. He's doing a "GLSR" build which is much less complicated than the usual LS/VTEC build.

It's been done. Successfully, and "fun" too.

Click here for something similar I already put together for what you might be looking for. Just remember "Stage 3" camshafts could be from any company. If its Brian Crower, In my humble opinion, there are much better options out there.

Let me know of questions for additional guidance. This was the best decision I made.

blackeg

i have an ls crank in a gsr block. its certainly a nice combo and real easy to do.

for those power levels i dont see a reason to use forged pistons and rods. ls rods with arp replacement studs and something like an rs machines b16 piston should do the trick. i would certainly put a bore gauge in each hole and make sure its not out of round at all and that you dont need to go 81.5.

same with the arp main studs. not really needed imo. worst case you get new oem bolts. once you use the mainstuds you have to line bore it which isnt the end of the world but makes more work with finding bearings and such


having the right combo of intake and exhaust goes a long way with these things, 200whp is definitely attainable without having to go nuts with huge cams, big compression, and flat faced valves etc

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I think you're going a little to deep into the actual components in detail I used and not the methodology I was using to create that setup. Even in the thread itself I explained the reasoning for using the parts that I did. It was not considered to be an end-all-be-all list: I preferred those parts, but this is not an absolute finality of how to do it.
200whp can be achieved in several ways. This was simply one example.

The purpose of showing that thread was to emphasize certain steps of the GLSR build to consider: Such as the use of an oil squirter block kit, what to micropolish, how to use ls/b20 rods with a floating piston, compression, etc. It was simply showing one method on how to a GLSR, since very few write-ups about them are in as much detail.

That was kinda it..

Sorry for any confusion OP & 93egsleeper

aleexiseenrique

They took a bore gauge and it marked 81mm, they installed new bearings but I won't bore the block so in that case 81mm pistons are the ones. 14:1 seem to me the best ones ? if there are better options which ones are they? ill be using my LS crank and LS rods

93egSLEEPER

Not sure why/where I was owed an apology?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

14.0:1 compression pistons? NOT A GOOD IDEA AT ALL.

There simply seemed to be some confusion is all. Best to diffuse any situation.

93egSLEEPER

I hadn't posted in this thread...maybe blackeg?

OP the guys who have responded in the thread are knowledgeable and have good experience to share.

aleexiseenrique

Then what pistons do you recommend ?

Thanks.

93egSLEEPER

I like ITR pistons on the LS crank personally.

Check this out https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...-dyno-3092090/

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I must have mistyped. its all confusing lately with these Chassis/color usernames. Its all starting to run together.

93egSLEEPER

Haha I feel it. I've considered changing my SN but I think that might be more headache than it's worth

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

you won't get any complaints here. go right ahead.. PLEASE..

coffeyface2000

What is your opinion on running ls crank, rods, gsr block/head, and p30 pistons??

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not much to opine.. It works. So try it..

blackeg

i claimed my color name in '03 i blame the noobs after me cramping my style hahaha just kidding. my fault if i got into it too much earlier on in the thread. sometimes after about my 3rd cup of coffee my fingers just keep typing.

and yeah, TheShodan summed it up best with his previous reply. it works so just do it.

93egSLEEPER

P73-A0, P73-00, PR3 and P30 are all great options for the 89mm crank

That being said the P30 (JDM B16) and P73-00 (JDM R) will give you the highest compression (12.2:1 ish) w/ slightly taller domes. They will also cost a few more bucks to aquire if they are in fact legit JDM pistons

The P73-A0 (USDM R) and PR3 (USDM B16) are slightly lower compression (11.7-12:1 ish) which is more than enough for a street motor on pump. They have flatter domes which allow for better flame travel, theoretically.

My honest opinion I posted above. I like the flatter domes. Less than half a compression point will not be noticeable on the dyno in this situation. It will allow for better tuning and clearances as well. Again, this is all my opinion. Take it for what it's worth. I have personally used all the pistons listed, besides the JDM R, in builds w/ great success.

coffeyface2000

this is my first motor build so bear with me....... But thanks im building it for semi daily use and weekend track and auto x. so I just wanted to know what all the smart guys think works best.