slowtegkauai

Thanks for the info. My pistons will do 11.6:1 so I guess i need 310cc just to be safe. I might shoot it with a 75 shot MAYBE, not sure if its safe for that compression. Well Let me know if anyone thinks its a bad idea to use a 75 shot, thanks.

AccordSleeperZzZ

pics of the fresh block and my paint project . changed image host, so if my pics. don't work, forgive me.








paint project.




(forgive the big smudge on that one^)

-Chris


Modified by AccordSleeperZzZ at 4:46 PM 4/2/2008


Modified by AccordSleeperZzZ at 3:29 PM 4/12/2008

bjones

block looks good!! keep up the work

Combustion Contraption

Are those pics supposed to be clickable/englarge? They dont seem to be working..

AccordSleeperZzZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are those pics supposed to be clickable/englarge? They dont seem to be working..</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think. hold on, let me see if i can fix 'em. let me know if they work in a couple min.

karma28217

Yeah I understand it's pricey for what you're doing, but when it comes down to it $2-3K will get me a stock ls/vtec build. At the same time you are spending about the same to simply build your motor with the aftermarket parts you have choosen. As far as being cost effective for my wants, your route is the better one I'd rather not spend $2k on a b16 head, water pump, oil line tap, an ecu, and everything else that it takes for a reliable ls/vtec. Good Luck with the build, I'll be watching

Combustion Contraption

The click/enlarge function is working now.

Good job doing stuff for yourself and learning.

gsilnc

awesome thread. props for ls build...
i like those headers.... though yeah that spot tig wasnt what i expected to see... $200 not bad at all though.
watchin...

ZeroTraction

http://www.theoldone.com/components/valves/
Flat faced valves that are actually good =D.
Build looks good, that header looks kinda scary though. I would have opted for a tri y but hey, gotta start somewhere. Big thumbs up for being different dude, can't wait to see it running.

AccordSleeperZzZ

thanks for the encouraging words, gentlemen.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZeroTraction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> http://www.theoldone.com/components/valves/
Flat faced valves that are actually good =D.
Build looks good, that header looks kinda scary though. I would have opted for a tri y but hey, gotta start somewhere. Big thumbs up for being different dude, can't wait to see it running.</TD></TR></TABLE>

aw geez. thanks for the link, man. i swear, i looked in a hundred different places for those suckers, i can't believe i forgot to check theoldone. oh well. on me. although, i'm going to regrind the valve seats on monday, going to stick with the stock ones of now.

and as i promised earlier. pics of my homemade ITB's. i had them set up how they're shown in the first pic for a while. but i was never happy with them...



so last month, three things happened. i grew a brain, a dick, and a heart.

i tore them apart and started to re-fab them how i should have in the first place. now, i'm just waiting on a welder to tig them together for me, since i'm a machinist, not a welder.

milled manifold



with runners



homemade alignment tool for lining up runners on manifold


i'm not sure how well you can tell they line up in this pic, but its fairly decent.


/end off-topic rant

thanks for looking.
as always, leave feedback if you want.

-Chris

laxtuner

i was looking at your rod bearings and it looks as if you may have spun them so you'll need new ones. you should replace them anyway with the motor rebuild.. ummmm also you should put your main bearing caps back on so the block doesnt warp. i learned that in school. i was rebuilding a D series motor at the tech school in town here and i remember every time i took off the main bearing caps my instructor kept telling me to put them back on if i wasnt going to do anything with the block just then. but damn nice build dude, i got a 91 civic hatch with a b18a1 swap so i'll be rebuilding that sometime, thats why i checked this out...........good luck with the build.........have a brewsky

laxtuner

are you cutting the valve seats with a hand cutter or a gun???. i used the hand cutter on the D15 and did a 3 angle job, it turned out pretty good, just if youre going to do it with a hand cutter dont put too much pressure on it

AccordSleeperZzZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by laxtuner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was looking at your rod bearings and it looks as if you may have spun them so you'll need new ones. you should replace them anyway with the motor rebuild.. ummmm also you should put your main bearing caps back on so the block doesnt warp. i learned that in school. i was rebuilding a D series motor at the tech school in town here and i remember every time i took off the main bearing caps my instructor kept telling me to put them back on if i wasnt going to do anything with the block just then. but damn nice build dude, i got a 91 civic hatch with a b18a1 swap so i'll be rebuilding that sometime, thats why i checked this out...........good luck with the build.........have a brewsky </TD></TR></TABLE>

um. thanks for the tip. i dunno. maybe your definition of spinning a bearing differs from mine. but typically, from my understanding, the bearing actually spins off of the notch, sometimes bonds itself to the rod/cap and typically the rod turns blackish and the engine, kind of...dies. when i pulled my engine it was running well, not burning oil or anything. so i'm gonna have to disagree with you on this one. but i dunno. maybe my father(with 30 years of experience), my instructor(with 30 years of experience), and the other honda gurus who've looked though this, just happened to miss the fact that i spun all my rod bearings...

laxtuner

lol, yeah theyre probably right, idk they just look a little screwed lol, but yeah umm its looking good ya know especially for your first build. and like i said before i'll probably be doing the same thing youre doing, i'll be building the same motor, just cant wait to see how it turns out

laxtuner

didnt wanna make it sound like i new everything but after reading what i posted thats how it turned out......... .............. mad myself sound like an *** too a little, lol.

AccordSleeperZzZ

no worries, dude. good luck with your build.

Novtec4u

Man I am looking up to you for support my build is very similar as you mentioned and I am a noob lol

Charger69

nice build!!! im doing my own d15b currently.....just was wondering if you ran this baby yet....or what you project this thing will run?

oneslow eh2

Looks like a good solid build man! Can't wait to see the finished product.

isaacEK

any updates?

slowtegkauai

hey, would it be okay to use stock valves with Crower dual valve springs with ti. retainers and crower 404's? if not then should I go with the flat faced valves? thanks.

AccordSleeperZzZ

thank you gentlemen for your words of interest and encouragement.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by isaacEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any updates?</TD></TR></TABLE>

of course.

combustion chamber shots.


believe it or not, this is the head after an hour or two of initial cleaning.

and after a few more hours with the wire brush and stripper.








no, thats not a half-*** 'port job', the "clean" areas are from the wire brush just trying to remove carbon. i didn't actually remove much, if any, material.

jdm honda parts cam gears


68mm TB


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowtegkauai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey, would it be okay to use stock valves with Crower dual valve springs with ti. retainers and crower 404's? if not then should I go with the flat faced valves? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think you'd be fine with stock valves. with 404's it'd be nice to use the flat faced ones to bump your compression up that extra ~.2 but, i think you can get away with stock ones with no issues.

input's always welcome.
-Chris





Modified by AccordSleeperZzZ at 7:13 PM 4/12/2008

silver-16v

lookin good

AccordSleeperZzZ

small update.

crank's in. smooth as hell. oil clearances are all around ~.0015

ran out of time just as i was putting the ACL's on my rods.

pic.



cheers.
-Chris

bjones

nice...