Acura TSX timing chain tensioner issue
#1
Acura TSX timing chain tensioner issue
Here is a video of acura tsx 2.4 liter engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MX2B...ature=youtu.be
Following advice from this article, i tend to beleive this is a tensioner problem.
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...r/viewall.html
The teeth do not hold timing chain guide at all.
Please advise if it's just a tensioner issue. Should i replace timing chain and guides as well? What about possible damage to the valves? How do I check? The car shut while driving at low speeds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MX2B...ature=youtu.be
Following advice from this article, i tend to beleive this is a tensioner problem.
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...r/viewall.html
The teeth do not hold timing chain guide at all.
Please advise if it's just a tensioner issue. Should i replace timing chain and guides as well? What about possible damage to the valves? How do I check? The car shut while driving at low speeds.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Acura TSX timing chain tensioner issue
When I got my tsx the car was not running. After some trouble shooting I determined that the chain skipped timing.
So I decided to do chain and tensioner. After taking the chain out and comparing it with the new chain, it was about one link longer than the new one.
I would suggest that you change the chain and tensioner at same time. Guides are not an issue.
Proper oil changes on will reduce chain and tensioner premature wear but that can't be known when you buy a used car.
Stefan
So I decided to do chain and tensioner. After taking the chain out and comparing it with the new chain, it was about one link longer than the new one.
I would suggest that you change the chain and tensioner at same time. Guides are not an issue.
Proper oil changes on will reduce chain and tensioner premature wear but that can't be known when you buy a used car.
Stefan
#3
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Re: Acura TSX timing chain tensioner issue
Hi, there is a possibility to modify your (our) oem chaintensioner. you measure the gap/extended distance of the ratchethead, then remove it, install a small bushing, same i.d as the spring, that ensures the spring is under 'full load' when at it's 'normal' condition, hence reembursing the travel the spring would have... it's just a cheaper version of the hybrid racing/skunk II pieces.. and it works well apparently too..
Acc-Man
Acc-Man
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