sansvtec

On 17x7 try maybe some 225/45 G-Force Rivals?

Hasbro

Why 7" wheels?

valter

ITR LCAs + ITR front sway = ordered.
King inserts for the ITR LCAs = ordered

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Skinny skinny. Meh...it could work. Less rolling resistance than 255s or 245's.

sansvtec

I'm currently on the best setup I've had. x10 with 235/50 R888. More than enough meat.

sansvtec

225/45 on a x7 is a square setup...

B serious

iTrader: (1)

?? Square setup? Referring to the tire being square on the rim? Usually "square setup" means non-staggered.

225/what on a 7? 225/45/17 on a 7.5 or 8" wide wheel is "square" or just about ideal. 225/50 might be decent on a 7....but still not square on the rim. 225mm = 8.85"

Some tires run wider than others. But...for about any aggressive tire (Z2, RE11, RE070, Rival, RS3, R888 etc), 225/45/17 should be on a 7.5" or 8" wide wheel.

You said you have a 235/50 R888? What diameter? Why so much sidewall? Unless its a 15" diameter....that's a taller tire compared to the stock 205/55/16 or 195/60/15. You sure you didn't mean 235/40? And a 10" wide wheel? Da fuq?

I wouldn't do a 225/45/17 for an EP3 that I was planning on tracking. And I definitely wouldn't do 7" wide wheels. I'm sure 17x8's with 245s would fit under those fenders easily. I usually do a staggered setup for FWD cars. 245/40/17 or 255/40/17 up front and 225/45/17 or 235/40/17 in back is what I'd run. 8" wide wheels at the least.

valter

Lots of good info. This may turn into the most informative over all non thin-foil hat suspension build for an EP3.

The 17x7s are due to the fact I cant find anything wider that is 4x100.... If any of you have any ideas where to look please let me know. I have exhausted most main stream sites. I have found a few options, but the price is $600 and up per wheel...

Happy Turkey Day !!!

B serious

iTrader: (1)

RPF1's don't come in 17x8 and 4x100?

What about Work Emotion CR?

Try vividracing.com to look up sizing. but...I'd still buy from a HT vendor.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Or...buy a type S 5 lug for like...the $300 or so that people sell them all the time for. Or that ITR conversion.

valter

Yeah man... looking into that now...
Enkei RPF1 Wheel 17x9.0 5x114.3 are $270.Huge price diff. I can do the conversion with brand new Honda parts and have some money left... LOL

This offset stuff is killing me. Most of the info I found was on +35 offset and more. I am looking at these and dont know if they ll fit.
5x114.3
17x9 +18
17x9.5 +22
235/40/17

After a few more hrs of reading I think that they will fit even with a BBK

sansvtec

I'm running 15x10 and 15x9.5. Using 235/50 and 225/50 R888.

valter

Update:
The ITR LCA's and sway bar showed up today. - debating if I want to put energy busing in em. Or keep the stock ones.
Picked up a used RSX base front and rear knuckle + hub+ rotors. I can just bolt on.

valter

I like these sizes. What car are they on?

Hasbro

The stock R bushings are pretty firm but a lot are cracking by now. You can test them pretty easily to see if they are cracked. If you have the available loose change, the solid spherical offset bushings (or the non solid offset bushings) are very effective and are not that rough on the road as some say with your aewesome lighter spring set up.

Hasbro

I'm curious, too, what car and what duties does it perform?

valter

They seem to be ok. The guy I bought them from had never used the bushings. He had spherical. I am looking at the hardrace hard rubber ones, but they are twice as much as energy... From my reading it seems that the Energy's probably have a lot to do with the the noises I hear( have been on the car for 5 -6 years 90 -100k, I thin they have done just fine ) as poly has no memory. This will also explain why the noises came after swapping to the Racelands . The polys had build memory on the D-Specs.(racelands are off the car, but I wonder if I gave them too bad of a rep in another post)


I am building a One Note with build info,parts links etc. It combines the knowledge of a few of the great builders here,crsx and cep3. At least the parts they have been gracious enough to share. If I get their permission I will post that One Note book on the site.It will also include the great stuff from this thread.

sansvtec

It's on a wide body EK hatch. It's sort of my dedicated track car. I do occasionally take it out on the street.. only for special occasions.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Poly compliance bushings will do more harm than good. They'll bind up the suspension movement. Then they'll tear.

Plus...those stock bushings look great. Just clock them when you install them so they don't tear in a few months.

17x9 +19 or 22 won't work without wide fenders or like -5 or 6° or more of negative camber.

Stock sizing is 15x6 +45, IIRC. So x9 +22 is about 2.5" more outboard than stock (doing math in my head). And x9 +19 is like 2.625" further out than stock. Then consider that you'll have 255's on it.

17x8 + 45 or 35 would be an easy fitment. About 1 - 1.25" more outboard vs. stock. Doesn't sound like much. But it goes a long way.

Since you have coilovers, clearing the inside wall shouldn't be an issue.

235/50 has 1.25" more sidewall over the diameter vs. 255/40. 1.54" more than 245/40.

valter

Thanks B-Serious,
I know I disappointed you with the Koni's , but I ordered hardrace hard rubber bushings today - the whole 9 yards. Also the A/C removal went well. However the nasty noise wasnt from the A/C, seems its the water pump. With all the little things I need to fix on the motor. I might just buy a JDM K20A3 for less than $1000 and bolt it on. Good time to get Hondata reflash, new clutch and add 6th to my tranny. We shall see the budget is already out of control!

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Konis? Thought you bought progress?

Disappointed? Lol. Nah.

Sucks that you drained the AC to find out that nothing was wrong with it. Hopefully you had a shop recover the old stuff.

My friend bought a JDM K20A (there's no JDM K20A3) from a base model DC5 for his EP3 after his balance shaft assy and oil pump mysteriously exploded. He got it at jdmenginescorp.com. It came in incredibly clean. And it ran/runs ridiculously smooth to this day. IIRC, $750-800 shipped or something.

Another (better) option is a TSX K24A2. They're all over the place for $1200-1700. Or an accord K24 that people give away for like $500. But...you'd probably need a kpro

sansvtec

SSR makes these in 17x8.0 +37 which is in B Serious's offset zone and I've never seen these on an ep3. I think they'd look sweet!



I'm running MK-III so call me an SSR fanboy or whatever, but I like em.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

SSR's are nice. And I see them on Mini Coopers so...they should come in 17x8 sizing with 4x100 bolting.

You may need to touch the rear fenders with a roller a tiny bit, depending on tire sizing and camber angle.

Nice choice on the hardrace kit. I feel sorry for whomever is installing them lol. Just make sure they get properly clocked. Rubber bushings always need clocking on install/whenever changing ride height.

Good luck!

Blue-Civic-Hybrid

iTrader: (1)

Good to see that everyone is getting good suspension here. I might get lucky and hopefully soon be picking up some KW Variant 2's for my 2004 CTR. I will post up pics once I have them in my grubby little hands.

valter

Yeah brother,
The A/C exploded 3+ years ago all the gas escaped back than. So i didn't pollute . I am eyeballing the new water pump $ 100 from honda. jdmscorp is the one selling the K20a3 I am looking at. I wanna go K20A, but dont know if I can at this time. Just dropped $3000 + on suspension. Need $2000 more for wheels and tires. And YES Konis with GC, front are Koni race double adjustable ... revalved for 1000 pound springs by True Choice = they are awesome ! Answered all my questions with no questions asked! I have been looking at the K24A2, but its not as simple of a swap as the K20A and more miles ... And I wanna go 10 000 RPM ...