Turbo/ ITR block question
02-07-2007, 07:13 PM
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Turbo/ ITR block question
Yo, im soon to turbo my itR. 
I have 172K miles on the block before i pulled it apart.
im buying new piston,rod,ring assembly before building it back
my question is do you think its good to rehone my block before building it back? do you think at 172k miles its time to just rehone and get some OS pistons?
not sure how much shops cost to inspect block condition.....
I have 172K miles on the block before i pulled it apart.
im buying new piston,rod,ring assembly before building it back
my question is do you think its good to rehone my block before building it back? do you think at 172k miles its time to just rehone and get some OS pistons?
not sure how much shops cost to inspect block condition.....
02-07-2007, 07:35 PM
#2
Re: Turbo/ ITR block question (ITR_HO)
if you're building it for turbo application i'd recommand you to get your block sleeved and go with low compression pistons.
and bore it out to 2 L
and bore it out to 2 L
02-07-2007, 07:41 PM
#3
B*a*n*n*e*d
I kind of like higher compression with boost... It would be so much fun if you had the block sleeved, bored to 84mm, LS 89mm crankshaft, with 10.5:1CR pistons, forged internals, on 12-15psi on a larger turbo... It would be pretty damn responsive, have nice torque, and would be a lot more fun than having no response below boost.
02-07-2007, 07:57 PM
#5
B*a*n*n*e*d
... What's that have to do with it? I have friends that drive 600whp+ cars daily.
If you're worried about reliability... Don't boost it. Not saying boost can't be reliable, because it can, but it's much more of a headache than natural power.
If you're worried about reliability... Don't boost it. Not saying boost can't be reliable, because it can, but it's much more of a headache than natural power.
02-07-2007, 07:59 PM
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Re: (GO-FIGHT-KILL)
Ya thats true.. but i've blown my motor twice being all motor..so reliable doesnt really work for me anyways..so this time i want to keep it true to being a type R and turbo it. this time im building it fresh so it'll have ZERO miles. we'll see how long it lasts.
Crosses fingers*
Crosses fingers*
02-07-2007, 07:59 PM
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There is nothing wrong with boost as long as you get a good tune. I think everyone here will agree. If you run 6-10 PSI I dont think your gonna have any problems. Keep in mind, this is based on that you have treated your motor well with regular maint.
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02-07-2007, 08:03 PM
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Re: (Doostur)
my oil was changed every 2500 miles...i baby my ITR!! i guess i should just really check the condition of the block. spending the extra cash will be worth it. IM GUESSING???
02-07-2007, 08:06 PM
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Re: (ITR_HO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my oil was changed every 2500 miles...i baby my ITR!! i guess i should just really check the condition of the block. spending the extra cash will be worth it. IM GUESSING???</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you want 300+ whp yea... if not there is no need. People will say its more reliable etc and it is but if your running 6-8 pounds you'll be fine.
If you want 300+ whp yea... if not there is no need. People will say its more reliable etc and it is but if your running 6-8 pounds you'll be fine.
02-07-2007, 08:07 PM
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Re: (Doostur)
the SC61 turbo comes with a 8 pound spring..well mine is, and i do play on pushing more then 350+ so i guess i will get my block checked out.
02-07-2007, 09:38 PM
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Re: (ITR_HO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the SC61 turbo comes with a 8 pound spring..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try doing a compression test if you really want to see how badly the motor needs a rebuild..but 172k is a lot. If you plan on rebuilding for that power goal, just bore the stock sleeves out to 81.5mm and get aftermarket forged internals. With the right internals , turbo setup AND TUNE you won't have a problem achieving 350+whp. If you have extra $$ and want more displacement to help spool time then sleeve it. From your post i quoted...I'd also suggest reading up and doing a bit more research in the forced induction forum.
Modified by B18Flip at 5:58 PM 2/8/2007
Try doing a compression test if you really want to see how badly the motor needs a rebuild..but 172k is a lot. If you plan on rebuilding for that power goal, just bore the stock sleeves out to 81.5mm and get aftermarket forged internals. With the right internals , turbo setup AND TUNE you won't have a problem achieving 350+whp. If you have extra $$ and want more displacement to help spool time then sleeve it. From your post i quoted...I'd also suggest reading up and doing a bit more research in the forced induction forum.
Modified by B18Flip at 5:58 PM 2/8/2007
02-07-2007, 10:24 PM
#12
B*a*n*n*e*d
Re: (ITR_HO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ya thats true.. but i've blown my motor twice being all motor..so reliable doesnt really work for me anyways..so this time i want to keep it true to being a type R and turbo it. this time im building it fresh so it'll have ZERO miles. we'll see how long it lasts.
Crosses fingers*</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now how in God's name did you manage to do that? All motor builds are kind of hard to blow, unless there was a pre-existing serious mechanical issue, or you did a misshift from hell (i.e Top of third gear at 9,000RPM, back into second... Hurts to think about). Other than that, there's not much else that can go wrong. Maybe if someone got a bit "Compression ratio happy" and didn't realize the valves were going to come deeper into the combustion chamber in VTEC.
Once the setup is tuned, it's not like there's anything that can really fail... So what went wrong with your two setups?
Crosses fingers*</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now how in God's name did you manage to do that? All motor builds are kind of hard to blow, unless there was a pre-existing serious mechanical issue, or you did a misshift from hell (i.e Top of third gear at 9,000RPM, back into second... Hurts to think about). Other than that, there's not much else that can go wrong. Maybe if someone got a bit "Compression ratio happy" and didn't realize the valves were going to come deeper into the combustion chamber in VTEC.
Once the setup is tuned, it's not like there's anything that can really fail... So what went wrong with your two setups?
02-08-2007, 10:18 AM
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Re: (B18Flip)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Try doing a compression test if you really want to see how badly the motor needs a rebuild..but 172k is a lot. If you plan on rebuilding for that power goal, just bore the stock sleeves out to 81.5mm and get aftermarket forged internals. With the right internals , turbo setup AND TUNE you won't have a problem achieving 350+whp. If you have extra $$ and want more displacement to help spool time then sleeve it. From your post i quoted...I'd also suggest reading up and doing a bit more research in the forced induction forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>
best advice so far. if you have a good tune you won't need sleeves until 500+ whp. i boost 18 psi on my stock sleeves with 406whp. no problems so far.
Try doing a compression test if you really want to see how badly the motor needs a rebuild..but 172k is a lot. If you plan on rebuilding for that power goal, just bore the stock sleeves out to 81.5mm and get aftermarket forged internals. With the right internals , turbo setup AND TUNE you won't have a problem achieving 350+whp. If you have extra $$ and want more displacement to help spool time then sleeve it. From your post i quoted...I'd also suggest reading up and doing a bit more research in the forced induction forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>
best advice so far. if you have a good tune you won't need sleeves until 500+ whp. i boost 18 psi on my stock sleeves with 406whp. no problems so far.
02-08-2007, 02:28 PM
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Re: (Speed Infliction)
1 time i did blow it from miss-shifting....MY BAD!!
and the 2nd was just from me test tuning and messing around with it.
BUT THIS IS HOW WE LEARN PEOPLE!!!
so people might say im dumb, but then again the next time i build it i have personal experience.
and the 2nd was just from me test tuning and messing around with it.
BUT THIS IS HOW WE LEARN PEOPLE!!!
so people might say im dumb, but then again the next time i build it i have personal experience.
02-08-2007, 03:37 PM
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Re: (ITR_HO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BUT THIS IS HOW WE LEARN PEOPLE!!!
so people might say im dumb, but then again the next time i build it i have personal experience. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I doubt anyone will say you're dumb, making mistakes is how everyone learns.
so people might say im dumb, but then again the next time i build it i have personal experience.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I doubt anyone will say you're dumb, making mistakes is how everyone learns.
02-08-2007, 03:53 PM
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Re: (Speed Infliction)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speed Infliction »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
best advice so far. if you have a good tune you won't need sleeves until 500+ whp. i boost 18 psi on my stock sleeves with 406whp. no problems so far.</TD></TR></TABLE>
there are handfull of people getting more than 20-30k miles out of stock sleeves. driving habbits can improve longetivity..but if you end up pushing limits everytime you drive.. stock sleeves aren't going to last in most cases..
most people end up blowing their engines way before 15-20k miles, and often it is due to running too much hp.
you can't have both, up the hp and take away from life of the drivetrain, everything is a wear item, apply more hp and you'll tear it down faster.
if you want to get 50-60k or more at 300+ hp, get sleeves. choosing right valvetrain components will also play a role. still, a lot depends on how engine is built, broken in, not starved, overheated, tuned, etc.. and then theres mistakes down the line like overboosting
i'll be redoing my setup for 3rd time and my best advice is to get sleeves, pistons, rods, headstuds and someone who knows how to put it all together and break it in.
best advice so far. if you have a good tune you won't need sleeves until 500+ whp. i boost 18 psi on my stock sleeves with 406whp. no problems so far.</TD></TR></TABLE>
there are handfull of people getting more than 20-30k miles out of stock sleeves. driving habbits can improve longetivity..but if you end up pushing limits everytime you drive.. stock sleeves aren't going to last in most cases..
most people end up blowing their engines way before 15-20k miles, and often it is due to running too much hp.
you can't have both, up the hp and take away from life of the drivetrain, everything is a wear item, apply more hp and you'll tear it down faster.
if you want to get 50-60k or more at 300+ hp, get sleeves. choosing right valvetrain components will also play a role. still, a lot depends on how engine is built, broken in, not starved, overheated, tuned, etc.. and then theres mistakes down the line like overboosting
i'll be redoing my setup for 3rd time and my best advice is to get sleeves, pistons, rods, headstuds and someone who knows how to put it all together and break it in.
02-08-2007, 04:26 PM
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Re: (vtec.dc2)
Thanks for all your help!!!!!
as far as the head building goes, im thinking about building a supertech valve train and new ITR cams/sprockets ( i sold my other set )
maybe port/polish exhaust side? what do you think..
after i find out the block condition, if good im going to block guard and get all new piston/ rod assembly.. keeping it at 9/5 compression. i plan on being nice this time and driving like a granny. EXCEPT ON RACE DAY!!
as far as the head building goes, im thinking about building a supertech valve train and new ITR cams/sprockets ( i sold my other set )
maybe port/polish exhaust side? what do you think..
after i find out the block condition, if good im going to block guard and get all new piston/ rod assembly.. keeping it at 9/5 compression. i plan on being nice this time and driving like a granny. EXCEPT ON RACE DAY!!
02-08-2007, 07:29 PM
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I had my turbo ITR and i would recommend that if you have a stock ITR motor that you should just swap a GSR motor and leave the ITR motor alone. If you don't want to listen to me then just sleeve it and bore it to a 2.0....
02-09-2007, 12:39 AM
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Re: (ITR_HO)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR_HO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much does sleeving and boring cost? any hooks?</TD></TR></TABLE>
costs a pretty pennie. not sure but i think p&p on the intake side will do you better than the exhaust side. supertech and ctr /itr valvetrain is what im using too.
costs a pretty pennie. not sure but i think p&p on the intake side will do you better than the exhaust side. supertech and ctr /itr valvetrain is what im using too.
02-09-2007, 02:52 AM
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(GO-FIGHT-KILL) I doubt anyone will say you're dumb, making mistakes is how everyone learns.
Isnt that weird I blew my clutch out in my ls and i figured out why...I RUN THE **** OUT OF IT! you gotta learn the hard way they say. 
Isnt that weird
I blew my clutch out in my ls and i figured out why...I RUN THE **** OUT OF IT! you gotta learn the hard way they say.
02-09-2007, 07:36 AM
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Re: (Doostur)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doostur »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Id rather not learn by making a mistake... especially with a C5 & Turbo... sounds like a costly learning experience if you ask me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto, unless you have endless funds to spend fixing mistakes....readup and research first. Aftermarket sleeves and block machine work alone will run you between $850-$1300 depending on company you choose. Check out laskey racing, they are sponsors on HT and are pretty much one stop shopping and will give you and idea of what it'll cost for a build (prices are on the website) http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/shop.htm
ditto, unless you have endless funds to spend fixing mistakes....readup and research first. Aftermarket sleeves and block machine work alone will run you between $850-$1300 depending on company you choose. Check out laskey racing, they are sponsors on HT and are pretty much one stop shopping and will give you and idea of what it'll cost for a build (prices are on the website) http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/shop.htm