Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain???
#1
Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain???
I am going to replace my thermostat as I think she is opening to early.
Problem is I replaced the coolant not so long back so dont want to drain it all again. I have 1/2 a container of Honda Premixed coolant left I dont want to buy anymore!
Is there a way of fitting it without draining it all?
Problem is I replaced the coolant not so long back so dont want to drain it all again. I have 1/2 a container of Honda Premixed coolant left I dont want to buy anymore!
Is there a way of fitting it without draining it all?
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Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (Tweakmeister)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most of it should stay in.
add a bottle of redline water wetter with your coolant mix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The premixed Honda coolant specifically states on the bottle to not add in any additives to the coolant system, which is why I use the non premixed coolant.
Austin
add a bottle of redline water wetter with your coolant mix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The premixed Honda coolant specifically states on the bottle to not add in any additives to the coolant system, which is why I use the non premixed coolant.
Austin
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Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (Austin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Austin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The premixed Honda coolant specifically states on the bottle to not add in any additives to the coolant system, which is why I use the non premixed coolant.
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I mixed Wetter with the OE stuff... never had an issue....
The premixed Honda coolant specifically states on the bottle to not add in any additives to the coolant system, which is why I use the non premixed coolant.
Austin</TD></TR></TABLE>
I mixed Wetter with the OE stuff... never had an issue....
#7
Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (Tweakmeister)
get a Spoon thermostat..... and def. Water Wetter only like 10 bucks a bottle and you don't use all of it maybe only half at best if you follow mixing instructions...
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Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (99MR_SiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99MR_SiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a Spoon thermostat..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
why?
why?
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Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (Nameless EJ6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nameless EJ6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It opens at 160 degrees, versus 180. If you do decide to go w/ a Spoon thermostat, you should also get the thermoswitch and rad cap. I believe that the three were designed to work in unison.
why?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It opens at 160 degrees, versus 180. If you do decide to go w/ a Spoon thermostat, you should also get the thermoswitch and rad cap. I believe that the three were designed to work in unison.
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Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (NXSpoon)
Is there any performance benefit to this? Seems like a waste of $$ when the stock units perform just fine.
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Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (.RJ)
Honestly, I can't really tell. I DO know that it does what it claims. The coolant temps are registering lower than before. Whether this is good/bad, or leads to less strain....well that is something that could be debated for days.
#12
Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (NXSpoon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NXSpoon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It opens at 160 degrees, versus 180. If you do decide to go w/ a Spoon thermostat, you should also get the thermoswitch and rad cap. I believe that the three were designed to work in unison.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was looking for an answer along the lines of "the stock thermostat just isn't good enough" followed by an explanation of why someone should waste their money on a useless spoon thermostat on a daily driven street car.
It opens at 160 degrees, versus 180. If you do decide to go w/ a Spoon thermostat, you should also get the thermoswitch and rad cap. I believe that the three were designed to work in unison.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was looking for an answer along the lines of "the stock thermostat just isn't good enough" followed by an explanation of why someone should waste their money on a useless spoon thermostat on a daily driven street car.
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Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (NXSpoon)
no reason to replace the radiator cap or thermostat with a Spoon unit
stock should be fine...adding a heavier water bias with Redline WW will handle everything you could throw at it.
stock should be fine...adding a heavier water bias with Redline WW will handle everything you could throw at it.
#14
Re: Thermostat Replacement - Coolant Drain??? (NXSpoon)
Don't waste your money on aftermarket thermostats...switches...or radiator caps...I've tried all of them, and they do little or nothing...As far as the fan goes, you can just butt connect the two wires that are connected to the thermoswitch, and the fan will just turn on when your car does. On top of that, if you don't live up north, you can just cut the center of teh thermostat out, and it accomplishes a lot more than a thermostat as far as cooling...the only down side is, it'll take a little while longer to get to opperating temp, especially if you live up north, in which case, you might want to consider an alternative.
Either way....if your problem is your thermostat opening up too early, that's not a problem, well, of course depending on how early any way.
We run a cut out thermostat, our fans on all the time, a fluidyne, and two full size mo-cal oil coolers, and in 70 degree weather it takes about 3-6 minutes to warm our car up.
If you're not running into any cooling issues, as far as your car overheating...then you shouldn't change anything...as long as your car gets above 136 degrees in order to turn vtec, the cooler the better.
As far as coolant goes, depends on where you live, but you really dont need almost any coolant, the only two reasons why you should run any are: one, in case you live where your water would freeze, and second, because coolant acts as lubricant for your water pump...we run about 20% and a bottle of water wetter or the royal ice on tracks that allow you to run any coolant at all. If you don't run coolant, you should change your water every time you do an oil change.
Also, you can add water wetter to almost any fluid without a problem, but, if you mix fluids, for example the orange and green stuff....they'll solidify in your radiator...BAD!!!
Later,
Aj
Either way....if your problem is your thermostat opening up too early, that's not a problem, well, of course depending on how early any way.
We run a cut out thermostat, our fans on all the time, a fluidyne, and two full size mo-cal oil coolers, and in 70 degree weather it takes about 3-6 minutes to warm our car up.
If you're not running into any cooling issues, as far as your car overheating...then you shouldn't change anything...as long as your car gets above 136 degrees in order to turn vtec, the cooler the better.
As far as coolant goes, depends on where you live, but you really dont need almost any coolant, the only two reasons why you should run any are: one, in case you live where your water would freeze, and second, because coolant acts as lubricant for your water pump...we run about 20% and a bottle of water wetter or the royal ice on tracks that allow you to run any coolant at all. If you don't run coolant, you should change your water every time you do an oil change.
Also, you can add water wetter to almost any fluid without a problem, but, if you mix fluids, for example the orange and green stuff....they'll solidify in your radiator...BAD!!!
Later,
Aj
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