Chris93Si

Figured I'd see what everyone is currently running, been posts like this in the past but I know we change parts a lot Currently I'm running Zeal B2's w/ 10kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear springs. I find that my suspension is very neutral w/ a bit of throttle controlled oversteer available, much like stock but w/ less body roll. I like my suspension but am considering stepping up a little, I'm looking for something that is stroke adjustable, aluminum and I'll probably go for higher rates in the rear. I'm mostly concerned w/ on-track performance and am willing to deal w/ a harsh ride on the street as the car is not my daily driver.

I'd like to know what you guys are running, specifically what spring rates and how do you like it? To those w/ higher rates in the rear is the oversteer controllable or do you feel like your constantly working to keep the car pointed in the right direction?

Thanks in advance
Right now I'm seriously considering the Tein REs and Buddy Club (although I'm not sure they're aluminum) coilovers. I'm thinking about 10kg/mm (559 lb/in) front and 14kg/mm (773 lb/in) rear springs on both.


Modified by Chris93Si at 5:40 PM 9/2/2004

BlueR

iTrader: (10)

Previously

Stock- sucked the BIG one
Mugen Lowdowns- Did a few tracks, car would still understeer
Zeal S6 12k front/8k rear- loved it, VIR Full was total blast

Currently

Zeal Super Functions- i have 14k/12k/10k springs, haven't decided what combination to use...will decide after watkins glen in 2 weeks

Type-R Yo!

I'm running Buddy Club Racing Spec. 10k front and 12k rear. I have not push the car that hard yet. Well harder than stock but not hard enough for the buddy club.
O we did not get a chance to meet each other at expo this year.

Big Phat R

Spoon N1 Coilovers 14K, 16K - dampers set at 2/5 on the street 5/5 track
Stock front anti-sway bar
Mugen 26mm rear anti-sway bar
Car is lowered about 2" all around


Turn-in IS AWESOME. I've had this setup for about 18 months. Love it love it love it.

Did I say I love this setup? A "little" bumpy on the street - but I can still drink my coffee on the way to work.


BPR - who needs to get corner-weighted next

Chris93Si

BPR a lot of oversteer? Is it manageable?

Misfit

Omni power sport 12k/10k

I like them so far... I have to set the height a bit higher.. still feels a bit springy... not bottoming out though.

Only time will tell.

Big Phat R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris93Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BPR a lot of oversteer? Is it manageable?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No - but I can do a really good impression of a pissing dog.

Oversteer is there - but I would call it more "rotation". As it never rotates more than it needs too - besides you control it with the "go" pedal.

BPR - who is practicing left foot braking at the track (hard!)

HondaRcB

GC's/Bilsteins 400F/500R and could use more oversteer. Thinking of upping the rear sway bar to JDM or Mugen 24mm. Works great for now but the shocks are starting to show a little age after 40k miles.

jdmspoonitr

iTrader: (1)

omnipower

12k front / 10 k rear

thk

Buddy Club Racing Spec 12K/8K w/23mm JDM rear sway.

ilovemyhonda

Omnipower 12k/10k

yoshi234

H&R sports w/ BilstEEn dampers & 24mm rear mugen bar.

for 96% street/ 4% track car

jond

GC's/Koni's 400F/500R

I'm not 100% sure if it handles better than stock or not. The ride hight is better, it looks cooler, its bumpy, but I think I could drive my car stock just as fast as I can now. As far as drivabality, I drive it 300+ miles a week. I think its fine. Although if someone is in the backseat, they will hit their head, and I do come off my seat on some bumps in the road.

I've noticed that this setup responds to ride hight adjustments, shock adjustments, and tire adjustments noticably.

At first I acidently had the back of the car around 1/8'' -1/4'' lower than the front. It handled like ***. Way too much understear.
I changed it so the back is 1/8th higher than the front, and the driver side is 1/8th higher than the passenger(so its level with 1 driver), and it handles very neutral.

Same with the tire pressure and shocks. Having them set right makes all the difference in the world.

Basically, if you find it overstears too much with this setup, simply lower the rear ride height, lower the rear shock rate, or lower the rear tire pressure.

Chris F

Stock springs, koni yellow one-way adjustables.

DsITR

Koni Yellows and GC coilovers

(350F/400R)

car is very neutral. oversteer or understeer is my choice, based on rebound adjustments or tire pressure adjustments.

I had it snap oversteer on me twice.. I shouldn't really say snap, as the spin took quite some time Plenty of time to recover and correct, once you recognize.

Car sees daily driver duties, and while the Koni/GC setup is more bumpy than most I enjoy it. It's very communicative and responsive.

Holding monSteR

I'm using Tein Flex, 9kg front, 4kg rear. setup as per Tein's recommended ride height and spring preload. Otherwise stock. I'm quite happy with it, basically handles exactly like stock, but stiffer. I've done alot of autocrosses with them, but only one HPDE so far, so i can't comment too much on that, except that they felt much like stock, but stiffer. I know the car is faster with the supension than without as i moved up in the standings at my regular autocross venue right after installing them. I would kind of like to go with an adjustable rear sway bar in the future, maybe Whiteline, so i can see how much more oversteer traits i would like. I also have to find somewhere to get the car corner-weighted and figure out some alignment settings, but so far so good; a good setup for a 90-95% street-driven (cause i can't afford more track time right now) car on the pot-hole infested, frost-heaved roads of the Great White North.

ITR-Spoon

JIC magic FLTA2



Modified by PY-ITR-#977 at 7:40 PM 9/2/2004

kepani

zeal function b6
10kg/mm front
6kg/mm rear
mugen 26mm rear stabilizer

2/4 street
3/5 track

still fiddling with settings for track. been on the suspension only one track day. and not to get too off topic - it was bad455!!!

i can now see how these spring rates would be very mild for a primary track car. but since i daily drive my car, it's a perfect compromise.

good luck finding the next step!

kepani

gsr-2nr

Stock gsr suspension

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Omnipower... 10k/6k
Got it cheap :-)

mugenracer

Spoon N1's with 14kg front and 12kg rears. Set on 2/5 front and 1/5 rear for street driving. Its a little bouncy on bad roads but on good roads its perfect balanced and comfortably firm.

IntegraBoy04

I don't have an R, but I have R suspension. Tein Type RE 14k front, 10k rear. Really stiff ride. Set a 6f, 8r out of 16. I autocrossed it 2 weeks ago with no sway bar at all, and it had hella oversteer. I was sideways in every sharp turn. I was goin to put the 22mm R bar on, but I'm not so sure anymore.

George Knighton

Konis and Ground Control, 500# Front / 750# Rear.

A little bouncy on the street, but it still leans too much on the track w/R comps.

migs

Tein Flex

euclid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Previously

Stock- sucked the BIG one
Mugen Lowdowns- Did a few tracks, car would still understeer
Zeal S6 12k front/8k rear- loved it, VIR Full was total blast

Currently

Zeal Super Functions- i have 14k/12k/10k springs, haven't decided what combination to use...will decide after watkins glen in 2 weeks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i sold you those s6 and regretted it about 3 days later when my car was recovered.

*disclaimer* my car is a 92 hatch about 450lbs lighter than the itr, so my impressions about overall stiffness of rates is different but the handling balance based on front/rear springrates should still be accurate, alignment settings are neg1.3 front camber, 3.5 front caster, zero toe. neg1.1 rear camber, zero toe. 195/50/15 so3. take thsi info with a grain of salt to apply to your application.

i am on s6 (different set than blueR) now 8/8, great for street and its very neutral; *slight* understeer at part throttle, oversteer with a *slight* lift. not too stiff but passengers who dont know **** about cars and have **** to bounce still complain.
not much noticable roll with stock itr swaybar sizes (24/22mm). i was at 8/12 before on the zeals, the car was really quick but it was just ***** to the wall, flat-out, dont lift situations, and thats not cool for a street driven car.
... it would be great for auto-x to rotate(not slide) the car around tight corners.

i now have superfuctions waiting to go on, i also have 10/12/14 rates to chose from. going to use 10/12 at first then maybe 12/14 next season on R compounds...
expecting that 2k front/rear difference to elimiate the understeer and turn the car better than the 8/8, but not break loose as easily as the 8/12.


edit: i just reread your first post, dont run 4k higher rear rates on the street, it takes 100% attenion to keep the car in control... that is an unbiased opinion based on experience to answer your original question. also the buddy club racing spec is powder-coated chromoly

heres the biased version: buy my s6 at 8/8 for 1600 shipped, use your 10k on the rear for 8/10, then sell your b2 with 6/8... everybodys happy

i also have 14/10 Tein RA which are aluminum and GREEN , 1000shipped but they are not height adjustable at lower bracket and the hats are peeling.


Modified by euclid at 3:09 AM 9/3/2004


Modified by euclid at 3:16 AM 9/3/2004