onyx00

Okay, here are the results of my Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake line and Hawk HP+ install.

Installation:

The pads were pretty easy to install. The Hawk HP+ already had some sort of shim (metal) on the back of each pad so I didn't need to clean and re-use the stock one. I put some anti-sieze paste on the back of each pad and also on the bracket that holds each pad in. The hardest part was pushing the piston of each caliper back in the close everything back up. I ended up opening my bleed screws (SpeedBleeders, don't try this with normal bleed screws) and relieving pressure that way so I could push the piston back in. On the rear calipers I had to use a screw drive to put in the notches on the pitson to turn it so it would go in. You can't just push in the rear caliper pistons, you have to turn it clockwise to get t to go in. Other than that the install was pretty easy for the pads.

Goodridge SS Brake line install:

This was a little more complicated. Okay, first things first. Use the right tools to do this job. Some people were talking about using vise grips to remove the stock brake line from the hardline of the car. BAD IDEA! You will only strip the screws. Thanks to the Helms and Wai (HT board member) I picked up a set of flare wrenches (you need a 10mm flare wrench) for $25 at Home Depot. Man, these babies were awesome! One twist of the flare wrench and the nut came right undone with no problems! There was no stripping whatsoever!! So point is, use what the Helms manual tells you to use (especially when it explicitly says so, as was this case). I suggest taking a plastic baggie (sp?) and placing it over the hardline of the car otherwise brake fluid will drip everywhere (not horrible, but it's less to clean up...). Unscrewing the stock lines was pretty easy. When you install the new banjo bolts in each caliper make sure you line up the whole of the banjo bolt with the hole of the brake line. This can be done by scoring the banjo bolt so you know where the hole is on it.

I then bled the brakes and here are my initial impressions:

Mushy mushy mushy. I was tempted to bleed again, but I know mny other members have said their pedal was mushy but eventually firmed up after about a week. I will wait a week and see how the pedal feels. But it is already starting to firm up again. I can't really explain why this is. The brakes were bled properly (I've done this four or five times before and never had to bleed again, always worked first time). I flushed through about 3 liters of ATE TYP 200 fluid, so I am almost positive there is no air in the lines. the pads might always need some break in time. Who knows. Am I most likely going to bleed the brakes again in a week just to make sure. Other than that everything is fine. I will post next week to let people know how it the mushy thing panned out.

Neo

onyx: very nice write up Flare nut wrenches are the bomb, aren't they.

I just did the same thing to my car (same pads and SS brake lines), only expception being that I replaced the front rotors with Brembo blanks, too. I was fortunate to have a friend (and fellow H-T.com member) help me with my job (thanks Madhatter!). My pedal felt a bit mushy at first, but not for very long (< week). But I attribute that mostly to seating the new pads on the new rotors. Now my brakes have never felt better. I am very pleased -- a very worthwhile upgrade

Eric R

When you install these SS brake lines, is it also a good idea to install them in the rear brakes as well?

onyx00

Not really sure. You usually buy them as a set, so I don't see why you wouldn't. I would think though you would want to. Just to keep confirmity, etc. Your back brakes are still important.

pyromaster

good post onyx

i'll be trying this in march (when i get more $$$)

Floyd

Great writeup Onyx00. I will be doing the SS install in the Spring. Let us know how long it takes for the pedal to firm up.

The purpose of installing SS lines is to improve the firmness of the pedal, and if you leave the rears stock, you will only get half the improvement as if you do all 4. As you apply pressure to the pedal, the front calipers will aqueeze the rotor, and any additinal pressure is transfered as more force on the pads, but if the rears are stock rubber lines, this additional pressure will be partially absorbed by the rubber lines swelling.

onyx00

Pedal is starting to firm up already

Flux

Great post - I am planning on the brake pad/lines upgrade very soon. Thanks for the info...

Neo

There ya go! It really doesn't take long at all. Enjoy you're new stopping prowess