Pads and Rotors???
10-09-2008, 03:23 PM
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Pads and Rotors???
So its time to replace my pads and rotors finally...and i gave the local dealership a call to find a thousand dollar parts bill in the future for 4 rotors and pads. so i have opted to go for better pads and rotors.
what pads and rotors are you guys running???? Best bang for buck? Brake dust? noisy? etc.....
what pads and rotors are you guys running???? Best bang for buck? Brake dust? noisy? etc.....
10-09-2008, 03:48 PM
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Re: (Tight R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tight R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it would be a mix of both track and dd.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would recomend a pad like Hawk HP+
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes...ode=A
Its a nice all around/multi purpose pad that won't break your wallet.
As far as rotors go. Do not buy anything cross drilled. They are prone to cracking when they heat up. If you must have slotted then buy from a reputable brand such as Mugen, power slot, Brembo, etc. Most of us use the cheapest rotors possible from Autozone or O'Riellys for example. When you start tracking your caR wearable items really start to become WEARABLE items and you will appreciate saving a little $$ where you can.
I would recomend a pad like Hawk HP+
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes...ode=A
Its a nice all around/multi purpose pad that won't break your wallet.
As far as rotors go. Do not buy anything cross drilled. They are prone to cracking when they heat up. If you must have slotted then buy from a reputable brand such as Mugen, power slot, Brembo, etc. Most of us use the cheapest rotors possible from Autozone or O'Riellys for example. When you start tracking your caR wearable items really start to become WEARABLE items and you will appreciate saving a little $$ where you can.
10-09-2008, 04:00 PM
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10-09-2008, 04:01 PM
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Re: (Tight R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tight R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you heard about kvr pads and rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. Do you have a link?
No. Do you have a link?
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10-09-2008, 04:34 PM
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Re: (Tight R)
I searched and really did not see anything impressive with them.
Found this quote FWIW....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesse H »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They're ok.
Much better than stock when heated up, but seem to be worse than stock when cold. Although they advertise as being a street pad (which they are, I doubt they'd hold up to road racing), they do require some warming up to get really grabby.
Aren't loud, and don't dust all that much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Found this quote FWIW....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jesse H »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They're ok.
Much better than stock when heated up, but seem to be worse than stock when cold. Although they advertise as being a street pad (which they are, I doubt they'd hold up to road racing), they do require some warming up to get really grabby.
Aren't loud, and don't dust all that much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
10-09-2008, 04:41 PM
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Re: (Tight R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tight R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so these would be more optimal for track then i would say since they require some warming up.
hmmmm
btw how do you quote someone when replying?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Based on that quote, I would say these are not suitable for track.
To quote, look for the quote icon after you click reply.
hmmmm
btw how do you quote someone when replying?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Based on that quote, I would say these are not suitable for track.
To quote, look for the quote icon after you click reply.
10-09-2008, 06:21 PM
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Re: (Tight R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tight R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it would be a mix of both track and dd.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Seperate pads would be wise.
Stock for street
A plus 1 or 2 pad for track until you get good and seasoned.
Seperate pads would be wise.
Stock for street
A plus 1 or 2 pad for track until you get good and seasoned.
10-09-2008, 07:35 PM
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Re: (get RIGHT)
First question: Why do you think you need to replace your rotors? Have they worn down to the minimum thickness spec, or are they cracked? IMHO those are the only two reasons to replace the rotors. Otherwise, keep using them. (New rotors won't stop your car in a shorter distance.)
Second question: Why do you think you need to replace your pads? Have they worn down close to the minimum thickness spec? Or are you looking for better braking performance? Yes, better pads (such as the previously mentioned Hawk HP+, a good recommendation) will help your braking performance and feel. However, braking performance is limited by the quality of your tires. If you're using crappy tires, the best and easiest way to shorten your stopping distance is to buy better tires.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as rotors go. Do not buy anything cross drilled. They are prone to cracking when they heat up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not in my experience. On my heavily-tracked ITR, I've used cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors. All eventually crack, and all last roughly the same number of track miles before cracking. Cracks form in a radial direction, and on the cross-drilled rotors they tend to form around the drill holes, but not any sooner than with the other kinds of rotors.
OTOH the slotted and cross-drilled don't last longer, either, so there's no reason to use them (especially since they're usually more expensive than blank ones).
Second question: Why do you think you need to replace your pads? Have they worn down close to the minimum thickness spec? Or are you looking for better braking performance? Yes, better pads (such as the previously mentioned Hawk HP+, a good recommendation) will help your braking performance and feel. However, braking performance is limited by the quality of your tires. If you're using crappy tires, the best and easiest way to shorten your stopping distance is to buy better tires.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by get RIGHT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as rotors go. Do not buy anything cross drilled. They are prone to cracking when they heat up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not in my experience. On my heavily-tracked ITR, I've used cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors. All eventually crack, and all last roughly the same number of track miles before cracking. Cracks form in a radial direction, and on the cross-drilled rotors they tend to form around the drill holes, but not any sooner than with the other kinds of rotors.
OTOH the slotted and cross-drilled don't last longer, either, so there's no reason to use them (especially since they're usually more expensive than blank ones).
10-10-2008, 09:54 PM
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Re: (nsxtasy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First question: Why do you think you need to replace your rotors? Have they worn down to the minimum thickness spec, or are they cracked? IMHO those are the only two reasons to replace the rotors. Otherwise, keep using them. (New rotors won't stop your car in a shorter distance.)
Second question: Why do you think you need to replace your pads? Have they worn down close to the minimum thickness spec? Or are you looking for better braking performance? Yes, better pads (such as the previously mentioned Hawk HP+, a good recommendation) will help your braking performance and feel. However, braking performance is limited by the quality of your tires. If you're using crappy tires, the best and easiest way to shorten your stopping distance is to buy better tires.
Not in my experience. On my heavily-tracked ITR, I've used cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors. All eventually crack, and all last roughly the same number of track miles before cracking. Cracks form in a radial direction, and on the cross-drilled rotors they tend to form around the drill holes, but not any sooner than with the other kinds of rotors.
OTOH the slotted and cross-drilled don't last longer, either, so there's no reason to use them (especially since they're usually more expensive than blank ones).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
first answer: the rotors were previously (by the old owner) machined already and are now warped (oem).
second answer: the pads are dead lol. also the car was sitting without it being drive for two years aswell.
Second question: Why do you think you need to replace your pads? Have they worn down close to the minimum thickness spec? Or are you looking for better braking performance? Yes, better pads (such as the previously mentioned Hawk HP+, a good recommendation) will help your braking performance and feel. However, braking performance is limited by the quality of your tires. If you're using crappy tires, the best and easiest way to shorten your stopping distance is to buy better tires.
Not in my experience. On my heavily-tracked ITR, I've used cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors. All eventually crack, and all last roughly the same number of track miles before cracking. Cracks form in a radial direction, and on the cross-drilled rotors they tend to form around the drill holes, but not any sooner than with the other kinds of rotors.
OTOH the slotted and cross-drilled don't last longer, either, so there's no reason to use them (especially since they're usually more expensive than blank ones).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
first answer: the rotors were previously (by the old owner) machined already and are now warped (oem).
second answer: the pads are dead lol. also the car was sitting without it being drive for two years aswell.
10-10-2008, 09:58 PM
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Re: (Tight R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tight R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
first answer: the rotors were previously (by the old owner) machined already and are now warped (oem).
second answer: the pads are dead lol. also the car was sitting without it being drive for two years aswell.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would have the rotors measured. If they are within spec, I would try having them turned again. If not, check out Autozone Duralast rotors.(Blanks)
first answer: the rotors were previously (by the old owner) machined already and are now warped (oem).
second answer: the pads are dead lol. also the car was sitting without it being drive for two years aswell.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would have the rotors measured. If they are within spec, I would try having them turned again. If not, check out Autozone Duralast rotors.(Blanks)
10-10-2008, 10:01 PM
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Re: (coolhandluke)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coolhandluke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would have the rotors measured. If they are within spec, I would try having them turned again. If not, check out Autozone Duralast rotors.(Blanks)</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya i am gonna take it over to my buddy's acura and have it checked out again if it looks like it needs changing i might just wait till next year since i am storing the car in another 2-3 weeks and just do a major overhaul over the winter maybe slap some project mu stuff on there:D
I would have the rotors measured. If they are within spec, I would try having them turned again. If not, check out Autozone Duralast rotors.(Blanks)</TD></TR></TABLE>
ya i am gonna take it over to my buddy's acura and have it checked out again if it looks like it needs changing i might just wait till next year since i am storing the car in another 2-3 weeks and just do a major overhaul over the winter maybe slap some project mu stuff on there:D
10-11-2008, 10:36 AM
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Re: Pads and Rotors??? (Tight R)
Autozone Duralast rotors + Carbotech AX6 pads fr + stock/Autozone Duralast (cheap) pads rr = good value; suitable for daily use, auto-x, and HPDE on DOT-approved tires.
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