JSpecwest

Ive been trying to figure out why my car has been running rich. I noticed the other day while looking over my engine that my MAP sensor connector had melted onto the MAP sensor and there is no way to get it off. I already cracked it trying to get it off. What could have caused this? Could this be why I am running rich? TIA...

sgT

This is the first time I have ever heard of that.

Vtec integra

yea that would be the reason your car is running rich
sensors make a world of a difference when there not workin

davew

the normal voltage range on a MAP is way too low to melt anything if it shorted...even a major short feeding full power to the sensor would have a hard time melting the plastic. It was most likely caused by external heat of some kind.

did the ecuthrow any codes???

-davew

JSpecwest

It threw a code 4 which is MAP circuit range problem/performance problem. This is really strange. Will I be able to just splice the wires and connect them to a new MAP sensor?

sgT

just splice on a new plug

VTEC4GS

did you try to install a fuel controller ? the map sensors is probably shot now ... I've known them to go bad.

Sometimes people try to install a fuel controller which mean cutting the map circuit to the ecu and inserting controller in between, in this process you could have put +12 volts instead of the usual 5v return ... is this a swap or its a factory car with motor ?

Greg

BodyKits NW

A new map sensor will run about 40.00. I suggest replacing that if possible. Like you said to me last week. The cheaper stuff first lol.

But you have 2 main problems. Your burning oil and running rich which is making diagnosing the problem a pain in the *** lol.

What you first should do is try to have someone use a Snap on Scanner and retrieve all your old codes when you first got the motor back so you can have more of a idea what is going on. This will give you a idea maybe why it is running soo rich that your back bumper is made out to be black, but really is white. This hopefully will point you in the right dirtection. Your idle problem is probably your Idle Air Control Valve, but a bad map would cause your car to idle bad. I didn't know you got a code 4, but eliminating each code one by one would be the best starting point. So fixin the "running rich problem first" would be better so someone could isolate the problem which is burning oil.

You should also check your fuel pressure. It should be at 36psi stock, and you should take your helms manual and check your voltage going to the number 4 injector. It may be your injector, but I highly doubt that.

Your oil cosumption is kinda throwing things off. You said you have 230 compression on all 4 cycliders. Which kinda says its not your rings, but there is not a lot of other things that could burn soo much oil you know. See when you get your fuel problem fixed we will be able to investigate what is coming out of the tail pipe and what the sparkplugs are saying. Maybe even do a leak down test to maybe isolate the problem since the shop that did the work only did a visual inspection. You may have a bent valve and you don't know it, and/or bad seals. With the money your goin to spend on oil and new plugs every week, you should use the money and take it to a shop you trust who is efficient with diagnostic work and spend the 50-70 an hour to get a good diagnosis.

If anyone can ad anything to this please do.


[Modified by BodyKits NW, 12:18 PM 1/2/2002]

JSpecwest

Its the original motor, just rebuilt. The previous owner ran nitrous and a fuel controller. But it wasnt melted then. Andy I may have this oil thing taken care of. I havent burned much oil since replacing my PCV valve but im still skeptical if this was the problem. Like you said, thats a lot of oil for a PCV valve.

davew

an excessivley rich motor will consume lots of oil as the extra gas washes down the cylinders and causes more blow-by. but perhaps you have a bad valve seal or something too....i can't say w/o seeing the car.

but as far as the MAP goes. check the voltage in the wires, if its within normal range plug a new sensor on there, if its not then you have problems in the circuit somewhere that you need to trace down...maybe the feul controller was not properly removed, etc...just follow it from one end to the other until you locate the spource....

good luck
dave w

BodyKits NW

But a newly rebuilt motor runnin as rich as his car could have caused the piston rings not to have set right. Also as low as his oil went down that might have caused problems as well. It could be a variety of things, but time will most definately tell.

apexii

My map sensor is shot in my turbolude, it idles fine but with any significant throttle position it falls on its face and dies. I've already swapped in another map and it works fine. Can I get a map out of anything else, or do I specifically need a prelude map? I have a gm-style 3bar, wasn't sure if it would work. Do they all just convert pressure to voltage? would a larger sensor lack the accuracy of the oem sensor?(1barvs3bar)

does ANYONE know if I have other options, other than paying honda $170 for one???