rino924

**Included cliffs at bottom because I end up typing too much**

I have had that infamous "whirring" noise coming from the transmission for some time now and am curious about opening up the transmission for the first time ever. It makes a loud high pitched "wah-wah-wah" noise when slightly on the throttle. Very loud and annoying for highway driving and makes no noise when I'm driving and hold the clutch in.

I recently ordered a new Exedy Organic clutch from Marc (BlueR). I know I could have just ordered bearings, but I HATE the clutch that is in the car right now. Extremely stiff, makes driving around town bothersome, and makes all kinds of noise. I bought the car with it in it and I have no idea what brand or kind it is.

Anyways, I really want to pull the tranny and inspect it and install my new clutch. Note that I have NEVER done something this extensive when it comes to my car. But, I don't want to spend money to have it done, mainly because I am a poor college kid, and more importantly, I really want to learn how to do something like this and feel that it would be really self-rewarding and make me appreciate the car more.

So, I found the write-up on c-speedracing on the clutch install.

Therefore, my question(s) for you all are:

1. What am I really going to need to do this? (For those that have done this many times)
2. What are some "tricks" that Helms/other instructions don't tell you? For example, a faster, easier way to get a bolt out that is difficult to reach, etc.
3. Some things to look for once I have the tranny out
4. What fluids to fill it up with once I begin to put it back on

I know this may seem like a post where people are going to respond with "Search n00b!", but I feel this would work well in the FAQ in a tech section on how-to's or something. I looked in the FAQ and didn't see anything at a first glance.

So ITR community, enlighten me with your everlasting knowledge


**Cliffs**: Pulling the tranny for the first time, what specific tools helped you, what are some "tricks" you know that make this process easier, etc.

RagingAngel

there's no need to remove the axles if you're trying to do this procedure.

Just separate the lower ball joint, right next to the bottom of the rotor. If it doesn't come off, screw the castle nut back onto the bolt backwards and hit it with a 3lb sledge hammer on the little metal nub on the arm itself.

DO NOT hit the castle nut. It is screwed on upside down to protect the threads on the joint.

After you have the joint separated, just pry the axles off and leave them hanging/bagged up (use common sense here). Other than that, there's nothing too tough about it.

Just don't forget the 10mm/17mm 12point sockets for the pressure plate cover bolts and the flywheel (if you're removing that).

Good luck!

RRRRRRRR

in a few months im also thinking about changing out new clutch..seems like mine is slipping and jerked forward when i rev-matched..

rino924

thanks for the heads up

Circa

i'm in the middle of doing the same thing
make sure you have all of the right tools (including plently of torque - breaker bars)

-> using a pickle fork to release the lower balljoint
-> u'll need a 32mm for the wheel hub nut
-> a punch for releasing the shift lever
-> plently of nut lubricant
-> beer

you will only need the tranny fluid
unless you accidently pull out the slave cylinder when unbolting the bracket in which case you will need DOT 3 fluid for the flush

Circa

invest in renting an air compressor & air tools if you're dealing with rust in the suspension area

just snapped the pinch bolt on my upper fork